Nuke

Symptoms of overkill probably are spending more $$ than necessary for a battery than is needed; having deep cycle capabilities that aren't needed; paying for materials of construction that, in an automotive application, aren't needed. There are probably more. Don't get me wrong. I would have bought a Red Top from a store here local to me when they had their sale but at that moment I wasn't sure which case size I needed and was distracted with other activities. But at the right price, they're a great battery.

KeneticEnergy

could have gotten by with something cheaper from interstate or diehard. i dont need a bajillion cold cranking amps in warm weather texas. dont run a massive stereo anymore either.

there are better things to spend your money on, like keeping all your car's fluids in good shape, or something nice for your family

stealth_GT

I am pretty sure I need a new battery, it starts kinda rough but it starts now.

Gonna do a voltage test tomorow, then take it to Ford on Tuesday for replacement.

(-:

Read up on the subject, and it's interesting that the shaker systems might be culprit. I have the 1000 watt one ( not that I even wanted it in the first place, came with the CS.)

Goldenpony

When my stock battery started acting funny, I replaced it with an Interstate. Great battery.

Art161

If you have a Motorcraft battery or other battery with removable caps, then I suggest a check with a hydrometer in addition to a voltage test. The hydrometer can point out a bad cell or cells.

Hydrometers for testing batteries used to be common in auto supply stores. I don't know what the availability is now, since there on so many batteries that are sealed and don't have caps.

stealth_GT

well that settles it.. car died in the middle of traffic going to work, so I headed for the dealership hoping that it'll make it there.. about a 1/4 of the way there, ALL the electronics shut off and my car is basically just rolling at this point.

Long story short, I got a new battery from Shucks (their brand) bolted her up and ran strong.. up until I started driving. Then it was slowly dying again. Took it to the dealer, hooked up a volt meter, the battery said 6.8 with the car off, 11.6 (declining) with it on!

Gonna say it's the alternator gone bad.

)-;

Riptide

At least it's under warranty. Shouldn't cost you a dime.

stealth_GT

...the battery did cost me something though lol.

It's all good, they would have replaced it with the stock OEM Motorcraft one with the measly 500 CCA rating.. the new one I have is a 780 rating.

(-:

Fired it up and the car is not only more repsonsive, but the torque kicks in alot quicker now with the new alt. NO more lag.. damn electronics in todays cars!

There is just one thing bugging me though...