How To Change Brake Pads?
#31
Ok I think I see what he may have done. OP, I'm assuming you unbolted the entire bracket assembly with the caliper still attached? If so, just put the new rotor on, bolt the entire assembly back in place with no pads, unbolt the caliper from the bracket, install the brake pads, and bolt the caliper back in place. The link timothyrw posted is a good reference for finding the 2 bolts that hold the actual caliper in place (they are on the inside towards the fender well). If that's not what you've done then I'm still lost, lol. *note* it's much easier to unbolt the caliper from the bracket if the bracket is bolted up.
#32
Exactly the issue. Thanks. I got the fronts down now...backs, not so much. I have the piston tool, and I can get it to turn, but its not moving...I'm putting as much pressure on it as I can. What do I need to do?
#33
I bought a very nice kit last night from Harbor Freight for $40.
#34
it was a real PITA for me to get it started but once i got it started i eventually saw the progress.
also, make sure you tighten it up on the inside "pressure plate" (just made that up) part of the tool that goes inside the caliper itself. then just screw it in clockwise. righty tighty!
on mine, also from harbor freight, there was a little pin that kept falling out of the shaft that was a real PITA, too. that has to be in to get the pressure plate to push up against the inside of the caliper.
man, you are really having some problems! it should NOT be this hard!
good luck!
also, make sure you tighten it up on the inside "pressure plate" (just made that up) part of the tool that goes inside the caliper itself. then just screw it in clockwise. righty tighty!
on mine, also from harbor freight, there was a little pin that kept falling out of the shaft that was a real PITA, too. that has to be in to get the pressure plate to push up against the inside of the caliper.
man, you are really having some problems! it should NOT be this hard!
good luck!
Last edited by timothyrw; 02-28-2010 at 03:56 PM.
#35
Yeah, that tool would be a lot easier than what I am using. My dad went to O'Reilly and got this tool, I'll attach a photo. It gets in the notches and twists but it isn't going in, even when I put tons of pressure on it.
#36
#37
on mine, also from harbor freight, there was a little pin that kept falling out of the shaft that was a real PITA, too. that has to be in to get the pressure plate to push up against the inside of the caliper.
man, you are really having some problems! it should NOT be this hard!
good luck!
man, you are really having some problems! it should NOT be this hard!
good luck!
Last edited by 6-Speed; 02-28-2010 at 07:07 PM.
#38
After you get the piston reset, make sure you clock it where the notches are positioned as shown in the photo below. One of the notches fits onto a pin on the backside of the in-board brake pad.
As you lower the caliper back over the pads, make sure the pads remain positioned squarely against the rotor and not cocked at an angle, especially when the caliper begins to press against the little springs on the pads.
As you lower the caliper back over the pads, make sure the pads remain positioned squarely against the rotor and not cocked at an angle, especially when the caliper begins to press against the little springs on the pads.
Last edited by 6-Speed; 02-28-2010 at 05:15 PM.
#39
After you get the piston reset, make sure you clock it where the notches are positioned as shown in the photo below. One of the notches fits onto a pin on the backside of the in-board brake pad.
As you lower the caliper back over the pads, make sure the pads remain positioned squarely against the rotor and not cocked at an angle, especially when the caliper begins to press against the little springs on the pads.
As you lower the caliper back over the pads, make sure the pads remain positioned squarely against the rotor and not cocked at an angle, especially when the caliper begins to press against the little springs on the pads.