Shaftmasters experience
We have spent some time in the shop trying to reproduce the "wake-up strip" effect that is described in this thread.
We have found that this effect can be reproduced by either loose rear flange mounting bolts or a loose pinion flange.
We do realize that some of the mounting bolts we supplied may have had "excessive" thread locker on them. Excessive thread locker could lead to "false" torque readings and "loose" mounting bolts. Having a gear ratio change could lead to a loose pinion flange if not done properly.
If anyone who is experiencing this effect would like a new set of mounting bolts with liquid "loctite" , we will gladly send them to you. Please contact us at 1-866-912-2004 or
1-313-383-6347 or email david@shaftmasters.com with your name and address and we will get them out to you.
We have found that this effect can be reproduced by either loose rear flange mounting bolts or a loose pinion flange.
We do realize that some of the mounting bolts we supplied may have had "excessive" thread locker on them. Excessive thread locker could lead to "false" torque readings and "loose" mounting bolts. Having a gear ratio change could lead to a loose pinion flange if not done properly.
If anyone who is experiencing this effect would like a new set of mounting bolts with liquid "loctite" , we will gladly send them to you. Please contact us at 1-866-912-2004 or
1-313-383-6347 or email david@shaftmasters.com with your name and address and we will get them out to you.
Will new orders have mounting bolts with liquid loctite? You guys really set the bar for customer service!
Once you disconnect the driveshaft, check the pinion flange for any "play" in-out and up-down. Unfortunately, a loose pinion flange will need to be "cured" by having the pinion bearing pre-load set properly. This is done with a new "crush-sleeve" between the bearings and torqueing the pinion nut to proper specs. This is another case where the pinion nut is either a "nylok" locknut or a "stover" locknut. Care must be taken to ensure there are not "false" torque readings in this case also. We truelly believe that ratio changes should only be done by professional "axle" technicians. We have seen too many "shops" not get them right.
I can't say that my butt-dyno notices much but that's probably because I'm still having fun with the saleen s/c
Just my 2 cents worth. I installed my new Shaftmaster DS along with a new UCA and had vibration issues and it ended up being the UCA which was for a lowered Mustang. Went back to OEM UCA and all vibration issues were resolved. So it only makes sense to me if you installed your new DS on a lowered mustang and still have the OEM UCA, your pinion angle is going to be off thus causing vibrations at higher speeds.
Just my 2 cents worth. I installed my new Shaftmaster DS along with a new UCA and had vibration issues and it ended up being the UCA which was for a lowered Mustang. Went back to OEM UCA and all vibration issues were resolved. So it only makes sense to me if you installed your new DS on a lowered mustang and still have the OEM UCA, your pinion angle is going to be off thus causing vibrations at higher speeds.
I'm following this thread with interest as I'm considering the one piece DS myself and my ride is -1.5".
Strikes me that a lot of you guys are settling for the vibration issue. If your shaft is becoming a vibration issue at 85mph+ but you're living with it because you don't go that fast usually, that's weak.
Firstly, if it vibrates at any speed then there's a problem, and problems like that have a habit of getting worse. The other thing is that, just because you can't feel it vibrating below that higher speed doesn't mean it's NOT vibrating at the slower speeds, it's just that you don't notice it.
Vibrations are bad. They will eventually affect everything around/attached to the part which is vibrating and after a period of time things will prematurely wear. Universal joints, Pinion bearings, seals.....
If you have a vibration get it fixed because it isn't 'right'. A one piece shaft is infinitely easier to balance than a split shaft. What I mean is, a One piece shaft shouldn't vibrate 'by design'. As soon as some guys posted up that their Shaftmaster doesn't vibrate at any speed, like "Graygt07", then we all know that to be true.
Last edited by marcuskeeler; Apr 5, 2010 at 08:12 AM.
You're going to get more NVH with a one piece design over the stock. Period. Whether it's barely noticeable or effing terrible is the question. If you can't notice a difference vs. the stock in NVH then you aren't sensitive enough to tell.
Yeah resonance (large vibrations) occur when the natural frequency of the system matches the forcing frequency. The natural frequency of the shaft is fixed and probably does not vary much between shafts. The forcing frequency is the output speed of the transmission. Therefore, if someone has a vibration at 95 mph with 3.73 gears, someone with 4.10 gears will have the vibration at 86 mph. With 3.31 gears, the vibration wouldn't be until 107 mph. Different tire sizes will also give vibrations at different speeds since it changes the driveshaft speed. Automatic and manual transmissions will also have different speeds at which the vibration peaks since the fifth gear ratios are different. If we want to sort out the natural frequency of these shafts, then people need to post up at what speed the shaft vibrates the MOST and then their transmission, tire size, and rear end ratio.


