Checking Gear Ratio
07-17-2010, 11:16 PM
#11
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Everywhere
Posts: 56
By the way ...
Thanks rls82959.
I appreciate the help.
If rls82959 missed anything everybody feel free to let me know.
I would greatly appreciate the help just as I appreciate the help he gave me.
Thanks rls82959.
I appreciate the help.
If rls82959 missed anything everybody feel free to let me know.
I would greatly appreciate the help just as I appreciate the help he gave me.
07-18-2010, 11:06 AM
#13
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
You're apparently unhappy with the other shop's install for some reason, and your current mechanic wants to know exactly whose parts and what part numbers are in there. There is nothing in that level of information that needs to be considered confidential. No parts mfr or shop is identified.
You needed to ask your mechanic exactly what needed to be removed (cover, gasket, fluid) in order to check whatever it it that needs checking and what had to be replaced (ditto, unless there's something else going on inside the axle that you have not mentioned yet). And get him to explain in greater detail if you did not understand anything.
It's been too long since I did a ring & pinion R&R to remember what or where any markings were located to say if anything more than cover removal would be involved. I think there may still be some information that we don't know yet.
Norm
07-18-2010, 11:08 AM
#14
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: over yonder
Posts: 1,185
MOOK,
He's actually not charging me any labor for it at all.
And no this mechanic is not a fool.
Again you are assuming things. He knows that I feel uncomfortable
and want to know 100% without a doubt.
He is checking it for FREE.
The other place I went to that I was having problems with is the REASON I am here now at the is point making 100% sure
everything is o.k. with someone else. Someone that I actually know to a degree. I just never knew he was a mechanic until
a couple of days ago.
Yes I made multiple threads about my trouble... but I wanted to try to get them all worked out by the shop that I paid before going to a shop
and paying AGAIN. Is there something wrong with that?
And when you go to a place and have such trouble... it tells you in the future to educate YOURSELF as much as possible
before doing something else.
I said just up there in my last post that this mechanic knew everything he needed and what he needed to do with this process.
I said that it was for my OWN education that I was asking these questions. I said that I could not get in touch with him before the weekend was over to ask him these questions. That is why he cannot answer these questions... NOT because he does not know or does not know or does not know
how to explain things well. It is because I cannot get in touch with him over the weekend and I would like to know before I go up there.
As I said... I even explained this in the post above.
So what exactly does this have to do with this mechanic's
skill or knowledge at ALL?
NOTHING.
Why are you saying he is a fool after I explained this in my above post?
That is flat out rude.
Fact of the matter is there is no reason for you to be frustrated.
I asked him to do it this way so that we could make 100% sure.
Spinning the wheels can leave room for error no matter how little or how less often someone actually messes up on doing it.
The only way I am going to feel 100% secure is if I get the badge checked. He agreed that it is the best way to get my worries behind me. He is doing it for free.
AS A KIND FAVOR.
So what exactly is wrong with this mechanic again?
As for choices..... go on wondering and having that little thing in the back of my head asking me if they REALLY got it right... or have
someone show me without a doubt it is right and do it for free? Wow, tough choice eh?
He's actually not charging me any labor for it at all.
And no this mechanic is not a fool.
Again you are assuming things. He knows that I feel uncomfortable
and want to know 100% without a doubt.
He is checking it for FREE.
The other place I went to that I was having problems with is the REASON I am here now at the is point making 100% sure
everything is o.k. with someone else. Someone that I actually know to a degree. I just never knew he was a mechanic until
a couple of days ago.
Yes I made multiple threads about my trouble... but I wanted to try to get them all worked out by the shop that I paid before going to a shop
and paying AGAIN. Is there something wrong with that?
And when you go to a place and have such trouble... it tells you in the future to educate YOURSELF as much as possible
before doing something else.
I said just up there in my last post that this mechanic knew everything he needed and what he needed to do with this process.
I said that it was for my OWN education that I was asking these questions. I said that I could not get in touch with him before the weekend was over to ask him these questions. That is why he cannot answer these questions... NOT because he does not know or does not know or does not know
how to explain things well. It is because I cannot get in touch with him over the weekend and I would like to know before I go up there.
As I said... I even explained this in the post above.
So what exactly does this have to do with this mechanic's
skill or knowledge at ALL?
NOTHING.
Why are you saying he is a fool after I explained this in my above post?
That is flat out rude.
Fact of the matter is there is no reason for you to be frustrated.
I asked him to do it this way so that we could make 100% sure.
Spinning the wheels can leave room for error no matter how little or how less often someone actually messes up on doing it.
The only way I am going to feel 100% secure is if I get the badge checked. He agreed that it is the best way to get my worries behind me. He is doing it for free.
AS A KIND FAVOR.
So what exactly is wrong with this mechanic again?
As for choices..... go on wondering and having that little thing in the back of my head asking me if they REALLY got it right... or have
someone show me without a doubt it is right and do it for free? Wow, tough choice eh?
If thats the case and I assumed wrong then I apologize. But it still sounds odd to say the least. You say there's room for error, no there isn't unless spinning a marked drive shaft 3.5 turns and marking the fender/wheel is too difficult to figure out... I dunno, maybe it is. But whatever, it's your car. Best of luck and I do hope you don't get screwed again.
@Norm, the info is in his other threads. Here -And here
Last edited by MOOK3456; 07-18-2010 at 11:14 AM.
07-18-2010, 01:52 PM
#15
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
Thanks, mook.
Counting driveshaft and tire revolutions and doing a little division should be a sufficiently idiot-proof method.
Working with simple-calculated tire revolutions is not.
https://mustangforums.com/forum/7110955-post49.html
These three threads should probably be merged.
Norm
Counting driveshaft and tire revolutions and doing a little division should be a sufficiently idiot-proof method.
Working with simple-calculated tire revolutions is not.
https://mustangforums.com/forum/7110955-post49.html
These three threads should probably be merged.
Norm
07-18-2010, 02:53 PM
#16
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Norfolk, VA
Posts: 627
Holy crap, it just dawned on me that you're the guy that's posted like eleven threads, all freaking the f*** out about this gear change. You really need to just sell the car and buy an '86 Honda Civic, man... you just aren't cut out for the world of car modification.
07-18-2010, 04:00 PM
#17
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Decatur AL USA
Posts: 2,176
To answer the posted question.
2 Qt of Motorcraft 75W140 Synthetic Rear Axle Lubricant
4 oz bottle of Motorcraft XL3 Friction Modifier
Sealer for the rear axle cover (Ford doesnt use a gasket and I dont either)
Something to grind or scrape the old sealer off the cover
Basic Hand Tools
I only use 2 oz of Friction Modifier initially and add a little more if I get any chatter when going around corners. The manual calls for a touch more fluid but I never need over the amount stated to reach the designated level (which is NOT even with the fill hole),
2 Qt of Motorcraft 75W140 Synthetic Rear Axle Lubricant
4 oz bottle of Motorcraft XL3 Friction Modifier
Sealer for the rear axle cover (Ford doesnt use a gasket and I dont either)
Something to grind or scrape the old sealer off the cover
Basic Hand Tools
I only use 2 oz of Friction Modifier initially and add a little more if I get any chatter when going around corners. The manual calls for a touch more fluid but I never need over the amount stated to reach the designated level (which is NOT even with the fill hole),
07-20-2010, 12:25 PM
#18
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Everywhere
Posts: 56
You needed to ask your mechanic exactly what needed to be removed (cover, gasket, fluid) in order to check whatever it it that needs checking and what had to be replaced (ditto, unless there's something else going on inside the axle that you have not mentioned yet). And get him to explain in greater detail if you did not understand anything.
It's been too long since I did a ring & pinion R&R to remember what or where any markings were located to say if anything more than cover removal would be involved. I think there may still be some information that we don't know yet.
Norm
07-20-2010, 02:04 PM
#19
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
You should not need a new cover as long as the old one wasn't bent beyond recovery during the removal process.
The flatness of the mating surfaces is important for good long-term sealing - I'll trust gaskets or sealing goop to deal with normal surface roughness but not open gaps. I'll gently tap flat any unevenness that I might find around the cover's bolt holes as well.
Norm
The flatness of the mating surfaces is important for good long-term sealing - I'll trust gaskets or sealing goop to deal with normal surface roughness but not open gaps. I'll gently tap flat any unevenness that I might find around the cover's bolt holes as well.
Norm