whipple traction issues
my lca's and uca have the poly/roto-joints. they are brand new!! installed about 3 weeks ago. i am using the bottom bolt hole on the relocation brackets and bottom hole on the umi uca bracket. i still have some clunking going on in the rear. i am going to have the relocation brackets welded along with the bolts. my pinion angle is -2.7. i have the spanner wrench for the roto-joints but they should not be loose!! i tighten eveything up with jack stands under the axle.
Do your burnout in 2nd gear. When your pulling into the staging area as your rear tires go through the water, spin them quick to coat them. Put her in 2nd and spin them at around 5500 rpms till they start to smoke and then let off the brake or linelock and slide forward till they squeal and start to grab.
I just cut a 1.64 on my M&H DR's launching at 3k rpms, 4.10's and an e-force blower.
Even though it's an in-car video, here's one from my car at an S197 event I ran at for a reference.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgkwAgNZuLo
I just cut a 1.64 on my M&H DR's launching at 3k rpms, 4.10's and an e-force blower.
Even though it's an in-car video, here's one from my car at an S197 event I ran at for a reference.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgkwAgNZuLo
Are you bouncing off the rev limiter at the launch?
The noise at launch is his two step or launch control. Set it to an rpm, floor the gas and it will hold that rpm until you let the clutch out. If it's a two step then he can hold the gas to the floor during shifts and not hit the rev limiter.
What I was thinking, too professional/serious for me. Weekend racer here. Happy with his 12.83's NA with no fancy stuff.
i am not hitting the rev limiter during launching or even close. when i notice it is spinning in 1st right away i short-shift into 2nd. it continues to spin until i back pedal the throttle and then it hooks and i shift into 3rd and go full throttle from there. but i am losing e.t. cause of all that. one time i shifted in 3rd and it still spun. it started to go sideways so i shut it down. i dont spin that much on the street with my street tires. i am still using the ford racing tune so i know i dont have all that much h.p.!!
I think they were talking about my video. It is a 2-step but I put it in more as a safety device. I use a WOTBOX which can do a few things. It's got a 2-step for launching, a no lift shift feature where I can keep my foot to the floor and it will cut the ignition temporarily when I press the clutch in so I don't damage the transmission, and it's got a spark cut rev limiter which is much much safer than the stock fuel cut rev limiter the car has if you have a power adder.
I race just for fun as well and I've only competed twice.
See if you can get someone to video a few of your runs so we can see what's going on.
I race just for fun as well and I've only competed twice.
See if you can get someone to video a few of your runs so we can see what's going on.
my lca's and uca have the poly/roto-joints. they are brand new!! installed about 3 weeks ago. i am using the bottom bolt hole on the relocation brackets and bottom hole on the umi uca bracket. i still have some clunking going on in the rear. i am going to have the relocation brackets welded along with the bolts. my pinion angle is -2.7. i have the spanner wrench for the roto-joints but they should not be loose!! i tighten eveything up with jack stands under the axle.
Stepped Spacers
You should be able to sidestep the clutch@ 3000 or better. Actually 4000 come to think of it.
Two things he can control at the track:
1. His burnout.
2. His launch RPM
Track prep is very important. Even with no track prep, he should pull a 1.80 60' or better.
After your tires start smoking, count to 4-5 then roll forward with the tires still smoking right up to where you pause before the line.
You can try riding the clutch a little on launch but I prefer to just drop it and go.


