whipple traction issues
#1
whipple traction issues
i have gone to the track the last couple thursdays and i am having trouble hooking up. i recently bought the nitto nt05r 275/40-17. i have them mounted on my factory wheels. my best e.t. out of 8 runs is 12.31 at 116m.p.h. my 60 ft. is 2.066. i am running the whipple tune with 3.375 pulley, stock exhaust, 3.73, aluminum DS, UMI lca,uca, relocation brackets. do i really have to baby it so much off the line and into and thru 2nd? anyone have any ideas? will the nitto's get better with age?
#2
Are you doing a 2nd gear burnout at the waterbox? I took some NT05R's to the track last time I went. First run they spun off the line but after that they stuck. I was having bogging issues after going to a TR-6060 transmission. The recent addition of 4.10's should solve that. Will find out in two weeks if the weather cooperates.
#6
i do the burnout for 7 seconds in 1st. i just read in superchevy.com where they did a comparison with e.t. streets. they said to lower pressure down to 14lbs. cause the sidewall is alittle stiffer and do a smoking burnout.
#7
Do your burnout in 2nd gear. When your pulling into the staging area as your rear tires go through the water, spin them quick to coat them. Put her in 2nd and spin them at around 5500 rpms till they start to smoke and then let off the brake or linelock and slide forward till they squeal and start to grab.
I just cut a 1.64 on my M&H DR's launching at 3k rpms, 4.10's and an e-force blower.
Even though it's an in-car video, here's one from my car at an S197 event I ran at for a reference.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgkwAgNZuLo
I just cut a 1.64 on my M&H DR's launching at 3k rpms, 4.10's and an e-force blower.
Even though it's an in-car video, here's one from my car at an S197 event I ran at for a reference.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgkwAgNZuLo
#8
What were you at?
#9
i am at pittsburgh raceway park in New Alexandria. (formally known as keystone drag strip!) first i turn off traction control, pull thru the water and come out of water about a foot. dump clutch in 1st gear and grab brake and spin for about 7 seconds and release brake and spin up to the lights. it seems like it's going to hook. i stage and leave about 1800 rpms. spins thru 1st and spins thru 2nd, i try to back pedal on the gas but it wont hook in 1st or 2nd. i have had a couple 1.925 60ft. but nothing consistant. i feel i have to baby it way too much to get into the 11"s. i thought maybe i was spinning water into the wheel wells and it was dripping back down on the tires at the lights. nope not it!!!my UMI lca and uca make alot on clunking, i had to really torque them up on them to make them stop. is it possible it is not letting the car squat like it should?
#10
You don't want too much squat. I was having a problem where the rear was bottoming out on me and smacking the bump stops. That would cause me to break the tires loose. I just installed CHE anti-squat brackets and now the rear of the car barely squats down and works great. I see that you have the relocation brackets so that should be good. Have you checked the bushings in your control arms to make sure they haven't blown out or split? I just checked mine when I did my brackets and the ones on my driver's side were split so I changed them.
As for torquing them down, they should be torqued to 129 ft/lbs which can be difficult to get to if you don't have a nice big torque wrench and torqued down when the suspension is loaded up.
As for torquing them down, they should be torqued to 129 ft/lbs which can be difficult to get to if you don't have a nice big torque wrench and torqued down when the suspension is loaded up.