S197 in nothern climates
11-16-2010, 06:22 AM
#21
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Midwest
Posts: 125
AllGT,
I am from a suburb of Chicago and I will back everything that Nuke says.....and I second the idea of getting a beater. Just this weekend, I tucked the GT into the corner of the garage for the winter.
I highly recommend a beater...trust me as you will see why. There ae people that have problems negotiating dry pavement, let alone snowand ice.
I have a 2008 Chevrolet Impala as my DD. When new the first year, I tried to keep it spotless and found myself at the coin car wash 2-3 times a year. Problem is if it drops way below freezing (which it will), the water and soap freeze on the car, the floor of the car wash turns into an ice skating andthe fun just starts to begin.
BOTTOM LINE: Buy a beater/store the 'stang.. We have ****ty winters here, but kick-*** pizza.
I am from a suburb of Chicago and I will back everything that Nuke says.....and I second the idea of getting a beater. Just this weekend, I tucked the GT into the corner of the garage for the winter.
I highly recommend a beater...trust me as you will see why. There ae people that have problems negotiating dry pavement, let alone snowand ice.
I have a 2008 Chevrolet Impala as my DD. When new the first year, I tried to keep it spotless and found myself at the coin car wash 2-3 times a year. Problem is if it drops way below freezing (which it will), the water and soap freeze on the car, the floor of the car wash turns into an ice skating andthe fun just starts to begin.
BOTTOM LINE: Buy a beater/store the 'stang.. We have ****ty winters here, but kick-*** pizza.
11-16-2010, 11:32 PM
#24
I live in the Northeast, my car isnt driven during the winter because the sand and salt acts like a sandblaster on the paint. That being said, I have noticed even though i dont drive it the moisture and salt in the air still wreaks havoc on the alum under the hood, like the throttle body etc (looks etched). WD-40 the heck out of it before storing.
11-17-2010, 12:29 AM
#25
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Washington
Posts: 1,768
we all know that YOU are a good driver, but that idiot on the phone yelling at their kid in the next lane over isnt... if you store it then there is guaranteed no problems, plus the salt/sand will kill your car... no thank you to rust!!!
11-17-2010, 01:39 AM
#26
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location:
Posts: 62
Hello there,
well, I am living in Bozeman, Montana and didn't have a lot of problems with my 2007 mustang.
Only problem I got was the battery dying the first winter, I found out I could plug my car on sector to keep it warm when I wasn't driving it. I can't remember how it's called, kinda like a heating blanket keeping the engine/battery warm.
My P-zero were good enough for the first 2 winters, I just changed them for studded Firestone Winterforce and I am happy about them so far. I also did put a couple bags of salt in the trunk.
I have also been driving my mustang only if really needed, ie shopping or going to see friends. I have only 7200 miles on it!
The worst that happened was a hail storm that pretty much put dents all over the car, nothing much you could do about nature... The car went to the body shop this morning, they will remove the dents and redo pretty much the paint all over, and paint racing stripes at the same time
(I'll put pictures for sure!)
Anyway, who would buy a mustang in Bozeman anyway... A crazy French guy x] And I am proud of it...
Hope this help!
P.S: I just registered on this forum a week or two ago, this is my first post! Thought it was a good time to post
And sorry if I made any mistakes, since I am French, my English isn't my first langage :s
well, I am living in Bozeman, Montana and didn't have a lot of problems with my 2007 mustang.
Only problem I got was the battery dying the first winter, I found out I could plug my car on sector to keep it warm when I wasn't driving it. I can't remember how it's called, kinda like a heating blanket keeping the engine/battery warm.
My P-zero were good enough for the first 2 winters, I just changed them for studded Firestone Winterforce and I am happy about them so far. I also did put a couple bags of salt in the trunk.
I have also been driving my mustang only if really needed, ie shopping or going to see friends. I have only 7200 miles on it!
The worst that happened was a hail storm that pretty much put dents all over the car, nothing much you could do about nature... The car went to the body shop this morning, they will remove the dents and redo pretty much the paint all over, and paint racing stripes at the same time
(I'll put pictures for sure!)Anyway, who would buy a mustang in Bozeman anyway... A crazy French guy x] And I am proud of it...
Hope this help!
P.S: I just registered on this forum a week or two ago, this is my first post! Thought it was a good time to post
And sorry if I made any mistakes, since I am French, my English isn't my first langage :s
11-17-2010, 01:42 AM
#27
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location:
Posts: 62
AllGT,
I am from a suburb of Chicago and I will back everything that Nuke says.....and I second the idea of getting a beater. Just this weekend, I tucked the GT into the corner of the garage for the winter.
I highly recommend a beater...trust me as you will see why. There ae people that have problems negotiating dry pavement, let alone snowand ice.
I have a 2008 Chevrolet Impala as my DD. When new the first year, I tried to keep it spotless and found myself at the coin car wash 2-3 times a year. Problem is if it drops way below freezing (which it will), the water and soap freeze on the car, the floor of the car wash turns into an ice skating andthe fun just starts to begin.
BOTTOM LINE: Buy a beater/store the 'stang.. We have ****ty winters here, but kick-*** pizza.
I am from a suburb of Chicago and I will back everything that Nuke says.....and I second the idea of getting a beater. Just this weekend, I tucked the GT into the corner of the garage for the winter.
I highly recommend a beater...trust me as you will see why. There ae people that have problems negotiating dry pavement, let alone snowand ice.
I have a 2008 Chevrolet Impala as my DD. When new the first year, I tried to keep it spotless and found myself at the coin car wash 2-3 times a year. Problem is if it drops way below freezing (which it will), the water and soap freeze on the car, the floor of the car wash turns into an ice skating andthe fun just starts to begin.
BOTTOM LINE: Buy a beater/store the 'stang.. We have ****ty winters here, but kick-*** pizza.
11-17-2010, 08:57 AM
#28
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Detroit Area
Posts: 894
AllGT, I lived in LA for 25 years, and got my 06' GT in Nov.05', then moved to the Ann Arbor, MI area in Aug 06' I did not drive it the first winter, and was so depressed it wasn't worth it. I talked to some hot rod owners and others, and they gave me the cheat plan.....2nd car for snow conditions winter required.
275/40/18's rear(26.7 inch) 255/45/18's front(27 inch) Good year F1 eagle D-3 Ulrta High Performance All Season Tires. Car and Driver proven by direct comparison superior to any winter tire in dry and wet winter conditions in acceleration, lateral G, and braking grip(not snow and ice). They still do fine in basic snow and ice if caught in a storm.
An RV adjustable angle and adjustable spray pressure nozzle for the underbody. Attached garage, and wether stripped 1 by 2 inch planks leading out under your garage door bottom weather stripping to allow drainage. California Dust brush, and a wheel wash brush deep soft bristles.
Only drive your car on dry condition pavement days, when there is only salt dust on the roads, mostly removed by other traffic. There are many, many days in my area that fit these conditions.
You are only removing salt dust from the surfaces, first from the body with the California Duster, then with mild pressured water from the wheel wells, wheels and underbody with enough pressure to remove salt dust, but not effect any aftermarket sticky lube or grease based lube.
Wet weather slush water mixed with road salt is what results in salt drying in a cakey manner on all surfaces. Dry road salt still corrodes, more slowly minus the moisture, but it is very easy to remove with gentle warm water pressure soon after driving.
I've done this for three years now, and the car looks like it did in California. The routine takes about 12 minutes in my garage. You must be willing to only drive in dry road condition winter conditions and checking local forecasting every time you plan a trip. Plus be willing to do the salt dust dusting and under spray at the end of your driving day.
It's still great to make shorter errand trips and 1/2 day visits on dry road days, and feel great about the car. Many days here in Michigan are sunny and beautiful in winter, just around freezing. Erik
275/40/18's rear(26.7 inch) 255/45/18's front(27 inch) Good year F1 eagle D-3 Ulrta High Performance All Season Tires. Car and Driver proven by direct comparison superior to any winter tire in dry and wet winter conditions in acceleration, lateral G, and braking grip(not snow and ice). They still do fine in basic snow and ice if caught in a storm.
An RV adjustable angle and adjustable spray pressure nozzle for the underbody. Attached garage, and wether stripped 1 by 2 inch planks leading out under your garage door bottom weather stripping to allow drainage. California Dust brush, and a wheel wash brush deep soft bristles.
Only drive your car on dry condition pavement days, when there is only salt dust on the roads, mostly removed by other traffic. There are many, many days in my area that fit these conditions.
You are only removing salt dust from the surfaces, first from the body with the California Duster, then with mild pressured water from the wheel wells, wheels and underbody with enough pressure to remove salt dust, but not effect any aftermarket sticky lube or grease based lube.
Wet weather slush water mixed with road salt is what results in salt drying in a cakey manner on all surfaces. Dry road salt still corrodes, more slowly minus the moisture, but it is very easy to remove with gentle warm water pressure soon after driving.
I've done this for three years now, and the car looks like it did in California. The routine takes about 12 minutes in my garage. You must be willing to only drive in dry road condition winter conditions and checking local forecasting every time you plan a trip. Plus be willing to do the salt dust dusting and under spray at the end of your driving day.
It's still great to make shorter errand trips and 1/2 day visits on dry road days, and feel great about the car. Many days here in Michigan are sunny and beautiful in winter, just around freezing. Erik
Last edited by eolson; 11-17-2010 at 10:14 AM.
11-17-2010, 09:19 AM
#29
summer wheels and winter wheels. I have nitto 555's for my summer setup and Michelin x-ice 2 for my winter on stock wheels. I don't have to worry about ruining my FR500's and I get tires made for those different seasons.
11-17-2010, 10:11 AM
#30
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Detroit Area
Posts: 894
I also run Nitto 555 285/40/18 and 255/45/18's in the summer, and I have a match set of wheels for the winter, stockers will no longer fit over my big breaks, so I matched summer wheels. Ult High Performance All seasons best for cold weather down to 25 degrees for dry pavement nicer day winter driving. Second winter car required. Erik