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Old 03-26-2011, 12:45 PM
  #21  
Bmr4life
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Originally Posted by grabber blue gt
I have no problem doing it myself, I installed the header I think I can adjust the pipes. Its just the fact that I'm tight for time and its freezing out lately so I figured I'd throw someone with a lift 40 bucks and have it done. Didnt expect to get quotes of 100+
Your best bet is to find someone that is willing to crawl under the car and do it for that $40.
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Old 03-26-2011, 02:52 PM
  #22  
157dB
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Just the thought of someone else fiddling with my stang
makes shivers run down my spine. That should be enough
to warrant doing the simple job yourself and knowing its done
right.
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Old 03-26-2011, 03:07 PM
  #23  
jpormen
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I first got my stang my dual exhuast rattle, i took it to a shop my dad always went to and the guycharged me me five bucks to fix the rattle. Last month i backed into a curb and bent the crap out of my exhuast. I took it to the only shop i could find open on a saturday and they quoted me at 275 to get it fixed and told me exactly what they had to do. so i waited and took it to the shop that fixed my rattle they quoted me between 80-90 to fix it and ended up charging me 50 and i tiped 10.
Just take it to a few dif muffler shops, if they need buisness they will be happy to give u a good price
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Old 03-26-2011, 10:35 PM
  #24  
grnbayfan
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it seems so rediculous to me that these shops charge an hour labor for something that only takes 10 mins to do. how come it never works out the other way? i have noticed most shops charge about 95 per hour for labor.
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Old 03-27-2011, 12:52 AM
  #25  
grabber blue gt
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Originally Posted by grnbayfan
it seems so rediculous to me that these shops charge an hour labor for something that only takes 10 mins to do. how come it never works out the other way? i have noticed most shops charge about 95 per hour for labor.
Thats my whole point. Thats my whole point to this thread!! They want to charge me an hours worth of labor for 10 mins. Literally could be in and out in 20 mins the most.
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Old 03-27-2011, 03:16 PM
  #26  
grnbayfan
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nice color choice btw
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Old 03-27-2011, 03:59 PM
  #27  
zporta
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So your so strapped for time that you can't do 20 min of work on your car but you can drive you car however far it is both ways and wait while they do it?

Do it urself
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Old 03-27-2011, 08:30 PM
  #28  
pascal
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Originally Posted by zporta
So your so strapped for time that you can't do 20 min of work on your car but you can drive you car however far it is both ways and wait while they do it?

Do it urself
Yeah, I rather waste $50 in gas than put that same amount of money in the hands of a local pro instead. Makes a lot of sense eh?

As a shop owner myself, I hate to be pulled off my daily task from a repeat customer car to a walk in/first time $40 job.
Unless it's a $100 job, it's not worthwhile to a professional.
Doesn't mean I wouldn't do it, but if I'm already busy... I won't bother.
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Old 03-28-2011, 08:20 AM
  #29  
SCCAGT
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Originally Posted by grnbayfan
it seems so rediculous to me that these shops charge an hour labor for something that only takes 10 mins to do. how come it never works out the other way? i have noticed most shops charge about 95 per hour for labor.
It does work out the other way. Quite often actually. Usually, you wont get told about it. Every week, I can count on 3-4 cars becoming a major pain in the butt. Small reasons, big reasons. Doesnt matter. The customer gets the repair done at the same quoted price, as long as there are no other parts involved, or prepared prior to working about a potential issue.

F150's have a problem that some in this thread would feel the same way about, as they do with the spark plugs.
97-03 F150's with rear disc brakes.
EVERYTIME one comes in, I tell the owner this: Every rear brake job we have done on these vehicles requires the rear emergency brake shoes be replaced. The problem is that over time, the metal backing plate that the pad is bonded to rusts and the pad is no longer secured to it. Everytime the rotor is pulled off, for resurfacing or replacement (one or the other must be done), the ebrake pads literally fall off the vehicle to the floor. They are no longer useable and must be replaced. This adds approx $xx to the repair bill.
I have now prepared the customer for a higher than normal repair bill due to a problem on the manufacturing side. I am repairing their vehicle with parts that will not do this again as well.

Spark plug issue conversation with customer: Quite often due to the design of the spark plugs on these engines (an example is shown at this time), the plug will break upon removal. We have a special tool set to aid in their removal. We charge $xx additional for each plug that does. Ford has issued a TSB for removal of these when it occurs. We follow these guidelines, and have good success. It is not a guarantee that they come out in one piece, but it does help. The new plugs going into your vehicle is a one-piece design (another example shown) that will prevent this from happening again. They are more expensive than the OEM style that breaks, but far less than what the charge would be if the OEM ones do.

Last edited by SCCAGT; 03-28-2011 at 08:52 AM.
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:13 AM
  #30  
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Wow allot of feedback here.. Anyways check around if ya want... I found a local shop here that has done adjustments etc and cost me nothing put a tip to the tech who did the work.. I just to to the shop when I know they don't have 12 cars lined up etc... The fact that JDM wants to charge you what they do is no surprise .. They are in this biz to make money.. They may have quoted you a high quote but it's your choice whether you want to pay it.. Your $100+++ is not going to make or break JDM..I know the feeling of crawling around on the ground for exhaust and suspension work for my car and it does suck sometime.. That is why I would rather pay someone else to do it.. Just easier for me... Good luck...
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