Where's 3rd gear!!??
#12
Get rid of that Hurst and get an MGW. I have zero 3rd issues.
I know a lot of people run it and I'll get booed for questioning it, but...With the Che unit, you're concentrating all the engine torque into two small bolts on a relatively fragile aluminum piece that wasn't designed to take that load.
There's a post somewhere around here where the torque ripped the bolts out and it wasn't pretty.
I know a lot of people run it and I'll get booed for questioning it, but...With the Che unit, you're concentrating all the engine torque into two small bolts on a relatively fragile aluminum piece that wasn't designed to take that load.
There's a post somewhere around here where the torque ripped the bolts out and it wasn't pretty.
#13
I do!
I bought the hurst as well, third is more difficult to me going slow. The **** that it comes with sucks, mine has been splitting. CHE brace like above are stating eliminates a lot, it's on my to buy list. I did some reasearch on it, people speak highly and it's cheap.
Last edited by 99gtstang; 08-07-2011 at 10:47 AM.
#14
Get rid of that Hurst and get an MGW. I have zero 3rd issues.
I know a lot of people run it and I'll get booed for questioning it, but...With the Che unit, you're concentrating all the engine torque into two small bolts on a relatively fragile aluminum piece that wasn't designed to take that load.
There's a post somewhere around here where the torque ripped the bolts out and it wasn't pretty.
I know a lot of people run it and I'll get booed for questioning it, but...With the Che unit, you're concentrating all the engine torque into two small bolts on a relatively fragile aluminum piece that wasn't designed to take that load.
There's a post somewhere around here where the torque ripped the bolts out and it wasn't pretty.
#15
Another thought, more expensive though, is to upgrade the entire tranny to a non-remote shifter. The tr6060 for s197 I think is such a gearbox.
This is an expensive option but worth it if you intend to also upgrade the engine to pump out sick power.
This is an expensive option but worth it if you intend to also upgrade the engine to pump out sick power.
#17
I'll look into it, I found the brace for $159. Looks like a pretty cheap fix. I plan on a supercharger by next spring so I'll figure out which route is best. I've heard MGW shifters are nice but never had my hands on one, do they really make that much difference?
Thanks for all the info!! You guys are always alot of help, experience means alot!
Thanks for all the info!! You guys are always alot of help, experience means alot!
#18
I'll look into it, I found the brace for $159. Looks like a pretty cheap fix. I plan on a supercharger by next spring so I'll figure out which route is best. I've heard MGW shifters are nice but never had my hands on one, do they really make that much difference?
Thanks for all the info!! You guys are always alot of help, experience means alot!
Thanks for all the info!! You guys are always alot of help, experience means alot!
#19
I believe it uses a long output housing. If you want a remote shifter on a tr6060 or its older brother the t56, I believe you specifically mush buy assorter output housing, that is if they even make a shorter housing.
Of the tr6060 type trannies, I personally would take the t56 magnum because of it's 600ft-lbf plus rating at the input shaft.
As for rotating strain, do bear in mind that even if you address the remote shifter with non-remote shifter, the engine and tranny will both rotate as a unit and move the stick out of position in the shifting hole inside the cabin
Of the tr6060 type trannies, I personally would take the t56 magnum because of it's 600ft-lbf plus rating at the input shaft.
As for rotating strain, do bear in mind that even if you address the remote shifter with non-remote shifter, the engine and tranny will both rotate as a unit and move the stick out of position in the shifting hole inside the cabin
#20
You don't need the brace. You need to let go of the shifter.
First requires you to pull to the left and push forward. Second is easy because you pull left and back, keeping it against the side rail. Third is trcky because you are trying too hard. Just push it forward with an open palm, no side pressure at all. Fourth is straight back, but the same principle applies, Open palm, no side effort. Fifth is forward with serious pressure to the right. Sixth is pressure to the right as you come back.
Yes, I spelled it out. Pay close attention to what you do now. Closed fist shifting is misleading to your senses. Your hand loses orientation with what is up, down or sideways. Try the open palm technique for a bit, then begin shifting with your palm on the top of the shift ball, loosely gripping the ****, but applying the same push and pull with no squeeze. You'll be amazed at the difference your grip makes.
First requires you to pull to the left and push forward. Second is easy because you pull left and back, keeping it against the side rail. Third is trcky because you are trying too hard. Just push it forward with an open palm, no side pressure at all. Fourth is straight back, but the same principle applies, Open palm, no side effort. Fifth is forward with serious pressure to the right. Sixth is pressure to the right as you come back.
Yes, I spelled it out. Pay close attention to what you do now. Closed fist shifting is misleading to your senses. Your hand loses orientation with what is up, down or sideways. Try the open palm technique for a bit, then begin shifting with your palm on the top of the shift ball, loosely gripping the ****, but applying the same push and pull with no squeeze. You'll be amazed at the difference your grip makes.