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Where's 3rd gear!!??

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Old 08-07-2011, 10:22 AM
  #11  
07 GT E UPP
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Google....Che Performance for actual site.
Brenspeed and Lethal Performance carry them...

Last edited by 07 GT E UPP; 08-07-2011 at 10:27 AM.
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Old 08-07-2011, 10:36 AM
  #12  
Ricardo
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Get rid of that Hurst and get an MGW. I have zero 3rd issues.

I know a lot of people run it and I'll get booed for questioning it, but...With the Che unit, you're concentrating all the engine torque into two small bolts on a relatively fragile aluminum piece that wasn't designed to take that load.

There's a post somewhere around here where the torque ripped the bolts out and it wasn't pretty.
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Old 08-07-2011, 10:45 AM
  #13  
99gtstang
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Originally Posted by Bigorangek9
K member brace?? I never thought of that. Makes sense since the shifter is mounted to the body like "07 GT E UPP" said. I figured it would take practice, but it only happens when shifting hard & I don't bang through the gears every time drive it.

I do!

I bought the hurst as well, third is more difficult to me going slow. The **** that it comes with sucks, mine has been splitting. CHE brace like above are stating eliminates a lot, it's on my to buy list. I did some reasearch on it, people speak highly and it's cheap.

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Old 08-07-2011, 10:49 AM
  #14  
2005Redfire6
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Originally Posted by Ricardo
Get rid of that Hurst and get an MGW. I have zero 3rd issues.

I know a lot of people run it and I'll get booed for questioning it, but...With the Che unit, you're concentrating all the engine torque into two small bolts on a relatively fragile aluminum piece that wasn't designed to take that load.

There's a post somewhere around here where the torque ripped the bolts out and it wasn't pretty.
I have seen the thread where the actual torque limiters caused the bolt to break off a piece of the block where it was attached to. And I have no 3rd gear issues with my MGW and 3650 either.
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Old 08-07-2011, 11:18 AM
  #15  
JIM5.0
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Another thought, more expensive though, is to upgrade the entire tranny to a non-remote shifter. The tr6060 for s197 I think is such a gearbox.

This is an expensive option but worth it if you intend to also upgrade the engine to pump out sick power.
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Old 08-07-2011, 11:55 AM
  #16  
2005Redfire6
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The TR6060 isn't remotely shifted? I thought it was.
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Old 08-07-2011, 02:06 PM
  #17  
Bigorangek9
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I'll look into it, I found the brace for $159. Looks like a pretty cheap fix. I plan on a supercharger by next spring so I'll figure out which route is best. I've heard MGW shifters are nice but never had my hands on one, do they really make that much difference?
Thanks for all the info!! You guys are always alot of help, experience means alot!
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Old 08-07-2011, 02:10 PM
  #18  
2005Redfire6
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Originally Posted by Bigorangek9
I'll look into it, I found the brace for $159. Looks like a pretty cheap fix. I plan on a supercharger by next spring so I'll figure out which route is best. I've heard MGW shifters are nice but never had my hands on one, do they really make that much difference?
Thanks for all the info!! You guys are always alot of help, experience means alot!
All I've owned was a stock shifter with my T5, after the tr3650 swap I went with the MGW and love it. I think its worth the extra money over the non-adjustable ones mainly because it isn't noisy as some tend to be (can't hear it all) and this thing reeks of quality straight out of the box. I also like the fact that if I get tired of the throw length or the actual length of the shifter handle it could be adjusted!
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Old 08-07-2011, 03:10 PM
  #19  
JIM5.0
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Originally Posted by 2005Redfire6
The TR6060 isn't remotely shifted? I thought it was.
I believe it uses a long output housing. If you want a remote shifter on a tr6060 or its older brother the t56, I believe you specifically mush buy assorter output housing, that is if they even make a shorter housing.

Of the tr6060 type trannies, I personally would take the t56 magnum because of it's 600ft-lbf plus rating at the input shaft.

As for rotating strain, do bear in mind that even if you address the remote shifter with non-remote shifter, the engine and tranny will both rotate as a unit and move the stick out of position in the shifting hole inside the cabin
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Old 08-07-2011, 05:22 PM
  #20  
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You don't need the brace. You need to let go of the shifter.

First requires you to pull to the left and push forward. Second is easy because you pull left and back, keeping it against the side rail. Third is trcky because you are trying too hard. Just push it forward with an open palm, no side pressure at all. Fourth is straight back, but the same principle applies, Open palm, no side effort. Fifth is forward with serious pressure to the right. Sixth is pressure to the right as you come back.

Yes, I spelled it out. Pay close attention to what you do now. Closed fist shifting is misleading to your senses. Your hand loses orientation with what is up, down or sideways. Try the open palm technique for a bit, then begin shifting with your palm on the top of the shift ball, loosely gripping the ****, but applying the same push and pull with no squeeze. You'll be amazed at the difference your grip makes.
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