Sorry, it's still like polishing a turd and adding air-freshener to it, sure it doesn't smell as crappy as others, but it's still crap.

 

Buy a good exhaust to drown out the crap...done

 

Or save the money from a 1000 to get a good amp/sub/box for the trunk instead. 500 is good just because it's got the cut-outs for good speakers already done in the doors.

 

I mean, I bought the car for 15 grand. 49k, no scratches, red interior, no problems. I couldn't find anything around OKC under 17,000 that I felt was worth it. This guy was going to graduate school in Amsterdam so he said he was trying to get rid of it. I really don't think it would of made a difference in price if it was the 500 or 1000, i think he would of stayed at 15,000.

 

Good deal. Just arguing the point that the shaker is great. For a new ordered one, far better to just skip the 1000. In most cases for a used, I couldn't see this really affecting the price much if at all. If they did ask more citing this specifically I'd likely be in the news, as I'd probably get hit with a tire-iron due to laughing in the guy's face.

For a stock system, yes, it's above par, and the 1000 IS as good as it gets for the mustangs, stock. And yes, the subs in the trunk are 2 '10s, with factory wiring and amps, that is the only difference between the 1000 and 500. Base system would not have the door 8' subs/cut-outs/amps in addition to missing the previously mentioned trunk set-up.

 

Yeah I see what you're saying. I just thought it was great because for the price because I was almost getting the best sound system for free. Plus, I'm 17, I like to bump like a black man from time to time

 

Not to roll further with a racial stereotype, but you can bump like a 45yr old black man perhaps with this.

RMS wattage for the amps (and each speaker uses it's own) is under 60 watts for the front 8' subs, I'd wager they're not using different IC's to do the 10's in the back either. As the speakers are matched, it makes good use of it, but you'll only give yourself minor hearing loss, most of the rattling will just be due to loose plastic pieces in your own car, and the guy blastin' it next to you at the stop light with the after-market setup won't even know you're playin' anything.

Attempting to power any of those with an after-market amp at that RMS range or above generally turns them into confetti. But for what it's using and being stock, anything over having to speak loudly with it cranked with a half-way decent bass hit and voice replication is an accomplishment. With this you will need to yell inside the car once you replace the head-unit itself if you crank it. Seems to be enough for the average person. I still can't wait to chuck it myself once I have the funds, but that's me..