so it seems like when i get close to the top of first gear, the engine sorta shuts down like the computer is stopping me from possibly damaging the motor. and when i shift to 2nd after that happens, it jerks really hard.
i think that maybe a programmer might remove this governor or whatever it is, and let me ACTUALLY drive my car. lol
any other suggestions?

 

Mine does the same thing, I never tried looking for a solution. Is yours an auto?

 

no mines not an auto, but im pretty sure it can be fixed by buying a programmer

 

The rev limit/fuel cut is there for a reason. Maybe they really are set a little low, for warranty cost reasons.

But what I think I'm hearing is that you'll go off and hit the limits after they've been raised anyway, or do something expensive if they're eliminated altogether. Just because you can maybe rev the engine another 500 - 700 rpm does not mean that there will be any more power up there, never mind whether the condition of your six year old engine is sound enough for it to be run that way.

Have you ever spec'ed out a performance engine build and proceeded to do all of the assembly? Doing so should put the matter of how you treat your engine in a rather different light.


Meantime, learn to shift before you hit the limiter.


Norm

 

i dont think i really explained it enough, im not trying to hit the redline. the redline is 7000, its cutting out at 6. So it really hinders my performance when i start to lose traction, AND have the motor cut out. im not the kind of guy you apparently think i am. i look forward to owning and cherishing this car for a very long time. its a performance vehicle, and im going to indulge in the performance aspect of the car, expensive repairs or not. ive owned 7 cars and learned my lessons in all of them. i didnt ask for your judgement, merely a respectful opinion.

Solomon

 

turn off traction control

 

@ chris09 i have but it doesnt seem to change anything.

 

7k redline on a 4.6L? I thought theirs were set more like at 6.25K. Even the '11 & '12 5.0L Coyotes have their redlines set at 6.8K (though the engine is designed to reliably run up to 7K)

Did you just buy your car? If so, what aftermarket tune did they have in your car when they sold it to you? You might have an aftermarket tune that is tuned for economy and emissions, and not performance.

To get above 6K, you should seek out a stock tune for your car so you can get to that stock 6.25K redline

 

Apparently I have a completely different issue lol. I thought you were talking about it happening just cruising and not shifting at redline.

 

Explanation is key. And many times, how you write a post up is just as important as what you're trying to say in it. Otherwise you're apt to get replies that you didn't expect.

So I'll take my turn at a little further explanation. No flame intended. And I'd have posted this earlier, except that I've lost my weekday daytime access to MustangForums.

When I see lines like this . . .
it reads like the thoughts of a 17 y/o newbie to cars who thinks that just because the tach reads to 8000 rpm, he really ought to be able to run it up there. Especially with the CAPS and the lol stuff used as emphasis.

Keep in mind that you're a newbie here with about a week's worth of membership and had only one or two posts at the time. I do not recognize your username from any other forum, could not find anything very helpful in your profile, and I strongly doubt that I've ever met you in person. Sorry for not being able to distinguish you from the above-described 17 y/o car newbie with that much information to go on.


ANYWAY . . . if you're still reading . . . with respect to the technical side of this matter, I'm not at all convinced that a stock or very lightly modified 4.6 has any business being up around 7000. Power curves do flatten out, nose over, and drop, and valve springs that are adequate long-term for a 6200-ish redline and chosen with engine losses (aka mandated average fuel mileage requirements) also in mind probably are not suitable for 7000 rpm operation. Plan on replacing them eventually, and please build your 7000 rpm motor with 7000 rpm parts. Understand that valve springs will run hot just from the repeated compression/extension as the valves open and close, and that at high rpms the cooling provided by the oil up in the cam covers has less time to pull that heat out of the spring metal every open/close cycle. I believe the technical term for the mechanism by which the springs get hot is 'hysteresis'. Over time this does compromise the springs' rev capability. How many miles are on that engine (or at least the valve springs)?

If you're losing traction every time this happens, there may be some rattle or other related to the wheelspin that's triggering the knock sensor.


Norm