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02 Sensors

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Old 10-12-2012, 11:13 AM
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obxdude018
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Default 02 Sensors

Ok so I am finally getting around to trying to repair my 02 sensor problems, I have been getting a slew of problems, my error codes have been P0010, 0020, 0135, 0141, 0155, 0161, they are all circuit related. For those of you who don't know this was a v6 to v8 swap, I installed longtube headers, which I had to cut and extend the front 02 sensor wires to reach down to the collectors. The rear sensors use an extension from AM. I have to tested the resistance of the heater in the 02 sensors and gathered this information, the upstream sensors pull the same ohms at 3.3 a piece and the downstream sensors pull the same at 6.0 ohms. I would believe that the heaters for downstream and upstream would pull the same resistance? I'm still doing some tests, but I wanted to get a thread started in case someone can chime in.
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Old 10-12-2012, 12:13 PM
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I was going through my progressions of testing, found no voltage coming to any of the 02 sensors for the heater circuit, so I went back to the BEC tested, the fuse and relay and they were ok, found that the bolt that secures connector to the BEC was loose, tightened that thing up and what do you know no check engine light and it smelled normal as well, the car was running extremely rich at start up, as it was almost impossible to be standing near the car without being suffocated by the fumes.

Hopefully this is just an easy fix.
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Old 10-12-2012, 02:46 PM
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Simon1
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Your heater circuit time will need to be adjusted in your tune. Because a of a relocation of your 02s, they take longer to get to operating temperature. A simple adjustment in the tune cures that particular issue.

The sensors still heat up with the same power and method as they did before. The difference is they are urther away from the heat source, causing them to heat up slower. Seems like they should heat up the same but they don't.
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Old 10-12-2012, 02:47 PM
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And I'm glad you found the loose connector.
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Old 10-12-2012, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Simon1
And I'm glad you found the loose connector.
I'm guessing they weren't heating up at all, which would probably explain why the car wouldn't run right until it got to operating temp. Now I just need to get it dyno'd and see how much power it's putting out.
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Old 10-12-2012, 04:23 PM
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Nuke
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How many miles have you put on it since you have no codes? It can often take a good 10-30 or more miles for the code to come in again.
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Old 10-12-2012, 04:29 PM
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Not 10-30 miles, however the codes I received were instant as soon as started the car, I could clear them out then shut the car off and restart it and the codes would be right back. I had the car idling for roughly 30 mins. and have driven it for maybe 3 miles.
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