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150K Miles - What Service I Do To Keep It Forever?

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Old 12-18-2012, 01:41 PM
  #11  
JoshyGT
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I used to try and avoid doing a lot of the work myself as I was never in a position to do so (no garage, no driveway, no tools) but over the last year I've acquired most of the above and have started to do maintenance on my wife's car (because it requires it more often).

Based on responses above, all of which I appreciate, I'm canning the injector service given my driving habits and fuel consumption and I'm canning the spark plugs as they don't have too many miles on it and with careful precaution I can do it myself based on the tutorials here. However, I did decide to proceed with the engine coolant and fuel filter replacement as I won't be able to get under the hood for at least the next 3-4 weeks with the holidays and family - but I look forward to doing it myself next time!

Derf00 - The brakes haven't been changed in god knows how long, though I hardly use them (95% highway driving). I know I did the front brakes over a year ago but don't recall the rear ever being done. So I'd rather just get them done now.

So, what I've decided is to do the following:

FLUSH engine coolant
Replace Fuel Filter
FLUSH power steering fluid
FLUSH transmission fluid
Change rear axle lubricant
Replace accessory drive belt
FLUSH brake fluid
Front & rear brake pad replacement + machine rotors
Oil & Filter change (using my own oil + filter)

Total out the door - $1000.

I'm actually pretty surprised to hear all of the feedback above in regards to the timing requirements for some of these services. I work in the automotive service industry (do marketing services for dealership service departments) and the two bosses here are always anti-flush anything. They call it "wallet-flushes" and "snake-oil" and have even told me some of the systems are "closed" so a flush isn't necessary - that's why some of these services are back logged and I'm disappointed to have not done them as I love to take care of my car. I did refer to the owners manual several times and some of what I'm doing above isn't recommended but based on the feedback here (of which I'd follow before I'd follow the manual), it seems I missed the boat!

Thanks again - here's to doing the work in my own garage next time!
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Old 12-18-2012, 02:26 PM
  #12  
Derf00
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Originally Posted by JoshyGT

I'm actually pretty surprised to hear all of the feedback above in regards to the timing requirements for some of these services. I work in the automotive service industry (do marketing services for dealership service departments) and the two bosses here are always anti-flush anything. They call it "wallet-flushes" and "snake-oil" and have even told me some of the systems are "closed" so a flush isn't necessary -

Thanks again - here's to doing the work in my own garage next time!
And that is where the misconceptions and misinformation comes in. Yes the systems are closed/sealed BUT over time, the chemicals, lubricants and detergents break down. The break down in these components is the first line of dirt that gets in to the sealed systems. This dirt then starts to wear down the components within the system they were meant to protect, creating more dirt.

Follow that up with the occassional opening of the various systems to check it and you end up letting ambient air/moisture/dirt enter the system that then mixes with the crud in the fluids, then you start speeding up the process.

Here's one about cooling systems most people don't know. Whats ironic is that the aluminum in our engines actually makes this more relevant now than ever in the past.

http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/electrolysis.html

Shops have never been big on preventative maintenance because it's far cheaper (less profit for them) than replacing failed parts.
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Old 12-18-2012, 02:50 PM
  #13  
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On plugs I put e3 in my o6 they are one pice. I broke 3 taking them out ,had buy new plug removal tool little time ,works great 4000 mi. On them changed in July .
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Old 12-18-2012, 04:01 PM
  #14  
bakerjd
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Originally Posted by JoshyGT
Thanks for the feedback! So here's what I've decided on and the costs I received to have it all done at once with discounts. I'm curious of everyone's opinion on the total cost of having this done:

NOTES: I'm told there's no cabin air filter in this car but I swear I've seen this replaced before? All "fluid exchanges" are with Valvoline chemicals.

Change engine coolant - $100
Replace fuel filter - $60
Flush power steering fluid - $85
Change transmission fluid (manual) - $68
Change rear axle lubricant - $145
Replace accessory drive belt - $105
Replace spark plugs - $315 with ford parts, $261 with my parts
Flush brake fluid - $95
Fuel injector service - $100
Front & rear brake pad replacement + machine rotors - $300
Oil & filter change (Mobile1) - $75, $50 with my parts

Total (using Ford's parts) - $1542.12
Total (using my parts) - $1457.98
Total after additional discounts using my parts - $1400

Does this sound reasonable as far as cost goes?

Thanks!
At a minimum, do the bolded items yourself to save a ton of cash (~$300) and the underlined item is pointless. Your injectors only need serviced if there is a problem. Go with Autolite's for your spark plugs.
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Old 12-19-2012, 12:05 PM
  #15  
Fort LiquordaleGT
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Originally Posted by Derf00
I would say you are past due on all of your fluids since you haven't mentioned any of them being done (except maybe for oil)

* Fuel filter should've been done 30k to 40K ago.
* Brake fluid flush, should be done every 2 or 3 years regardless. It is very hygroscopic and once water gets in there it will corrode your brake system from the inside out.
* Injector service is a waste of money unless you have a problem that requires it. If you run name brand fuel like you have been, they have detergents that keep out the varnish and keep the system clean. A flush is typically just running a concentrate of those exact same detergents.
* Rotors - don't replace them, turn them. Replacing them won't guarantee there won't be problems (what if they are not true to begin with?)
* Plugs, 100K...really? Who did them last? You will need to be very careful you don't break any pulling them out since a 4.6L is notorious for carbon build up on the nose.
* Cooling system flush every 3 years or so.
* Tranny fluid change (auto or manual) - every 60K on auto, or 100K on manual.
* Differential Fluid change - 50 or 100K
* P/S steering system flush - every 4 or 5 years so.
* Clutch probably a good idea.
OP, virtually this entire list is wrong like most things on this forum. Inside your glove box is a book, read it and follow it. Doing things like changing your brake fluid every 2 years or diff fluid at 50k is absolutely insanely retarded.

Ignore these turkeys, read the dam book.
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Old 12-19-2012, 05:01 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Fort LiquordaleGT
OP, virtually this entire list is wrong like most things on this forum. Inside your glove box is a book, read it and follow it. Doing things like changing your brake fluid every 2 years or diff fluid at 50k is absolutely insanely retarded.

Ignore these turkeys, read the dam book.
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Old 12-19-2012, 06:35 PM
  #17  
Art161
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Originally Posted by Fort LiquordaleGT
OP, virtually this entire list is wrong like most things on this forum. Inside your glove box is a book, read it and follow it.

Doing things like changing your brake fluid every 2 years or diff fluid at 50k is absolutely insanely retarded.

Ignore these turkeys, read the dam book.
Most books on auto care recommend flushing the brake system every two years. Water will get into the system because the brake fluid is hygroscopic. If the water fouls the ABS system, it is very expensive to repair. Even without ABS, it's still a good thing to do.
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Old 12-19-2012, 08:04 PM
  #18  
pascal
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Originally Posted by Fort LiquordaleGT
.......... like most things on this forum.......
GTFO then.
None will miss you.
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Old 12-19-2012, 08:17 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by pascal
GTFO then.
None will miss you.
+1

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Old 12-20-2012, 08:46 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by bakerjd
+1

+1 on the Ari Gold gif.

If the OP had his plugs changed already, they probably are now one piece plugs. As I understand it, and correct me if I am wrong, Ford did away with the two piece design because of the separation of the plugs.
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