Shaker 500 Question
03-10-2013, 11:06 AM
#1
Shaker 500 Question
Ok I'm still looking into this audio upgrade but I need solid specs.
From what I've gathered the Shaker 500 consist of
2 - 60w front speakers @ 4 ohm
2 - 60w x 2 door subs @ 1.2 - 1.6 ohm
2 - 25w rear speakers @ 4 ohm
1.) I need to know is the above 100% correct? I'm doing the same work on both the 2011 and 2008 Mustangs, so are these numbers correct for both or noth?
2.) Are those ratings peak or rms watts?
3.) I can find wires that will allow me to adapt aftermarket speakers to the factory harness but I'm a little stumped on the door subs. Please save the flaming, I have my reasons for this decision, but I want to wire up new speakers and door subs to the factory harness/amps. Yes I know they will be underpowered per say but its the improvement in quality that I want, not more wattage. So with that said exactly how would I wire a new door sub into the car? (I know Shelby makes a kicker door sub that's a direct replacement, but it seems to be a single voice coil sub so my assumption is it's not utilizing the full power of the amps as the 4 wires that come out the harness to the factory sub, only 2 wires are used). Here's what I know
The factory subs are driven by a 2 channel amp internally bridged with each channel running directly to the + - sides of the sub. I personally didn't know a sub could be wired like this as the amp would be sending left and right signals. Now with that said, could I buy a dual voice coil 8" sub rated at 2 ohm and wire it in the same manner or no? Again on a normal amp I know this wouldn't work well, but the Ford amps seem different.
This is the only way I know how to wire the sub to pull close to the required ohm load, but again, it won't utilize all 4 wires out of the harness, just two which means I'd only be pulling power off of 1 channel and I'd like to bypass that if possible. Then again this diagram is for a mono block and not a two channel internally bridged so again I'm just not sure.
From what I've gathered the Shaker 500 consist of
2 - 60w front speakers @ 4 ohm
2 - 60w x 2 door subs @ 1.2 - 1.6 ohm
2 - 25w rear speakers @ 4 ohm
1.) I need to know is the above 100% correct? I'm doing the same work on both the 2011 and 2008 Mustangs, so are these numbers correct for both or noth?
2.) Are those ratings peak or rms watts?
3.) I can find wires that will allow me to adapt aftermarket speakers to the factory harness but I'm a little stumped on the door subs. Please save the flaming, I have my reasons for this decision, but I want to wire up new speakers and door subs to the factory harness/amps. Yes I know they will be underpowered per say but its the improvement in quality that I want, not more wattage. So with that said exactly how would I wire a new door sub into the car? (I know Shelby makes a kicker door sub that's a direct replacement, but it seems to be a single voice coil sub so my assumption is it's not utilizing the full power of the amps as the 4 wires that come out the harness to the factory sub, only 2 wires are used). Here's what I know
The factory subs are driven by a 2 channel amp internally bridged with each channel running directly to the + - sides of the sub. I personally didn't know a sub could be wired like this as the amp would be sending left and right signals. Now with that said, could I buy a dual voice coil 8" sub rated at 2 ohm and wire it in the same manner or no? Again on a normal amp I know this wouldn't work well, but the Ford amps seem different.
This is the only way I know how to wire the sub to pull close to the required ohm load, but again, it won't utilize all 4 wires out of the harness, just two which means I'd only be pulling power off of 1 channel and I'd like to bypass that if possible. Then again this diagram is for a mono block and not a two channel internally bridged so again I'm just not sure.
03-11-2013, 09:26 PM
#3
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: California
Posts: 477
Do you have a DMM? If you don't go get one and measure the wires to see what they are actually doing, that might help you figure out how to get all the power out of the amp. You could bridge them yourself by hooking up both sets of wires together.
I don't know all the specs of the shaker system, but I thought the 500 meant that it was pushing 500 watts, and what you have listed above doesn't add up... But then again I may be just assuming that. If those are RMS, then the peak could very easily make it add up to 500, and Ford would do something slightly shady like that, but again I am not sure.
I did put 6.5" woofers in the sub spot on my 06 GT that I used to have, the tweeters were in the normal speaker spot, I just had to make an adapter. I am not sure if a normal 8" woofer would fit because of the shallowness of the hole where the subs are.
When I put the component set in the doors I didn't use the factory subwoofer wiring, I just ran the normal speaker wires to the x-over box and let it do it's magic to get the right sound to both speakers.
I am curious as to why you want to use the factory amps? I know you don't want more watts, but why? Watts will make it have the ability to go louder, but when you aren't pushing the system to it's limits the extra power goes in to making the speakers sound better.
Hope that helps, and I really hope it all makes sense
I don't know all the specs of the shaker system, but I thought the 500 meant that it was pushing 500 watts, and what you have listed above doesn't add up... But then again I may be just assuming that. If those are RMS, then the peak could very easily make it add up to 500, and Ford would do something slightly shady like that, but again I am not sure.
I did put 6.5" woofers in the sub spot on my 06 GT that I used to have, the tweeters were in the normal speaker spot, I just had to make an adapter. I am not sure if a normal 8" woofer would fit because of the shallowness of the hole where the subs are.
When I put the component set in the doors I didn't use the factory subwoofer wiring, I just ran the normal speaker wires to the x-over box and let it do it's magic to get the right sound to both speakers.
I am curious as to why you want to use the factory amps? I know you don't want more watts, but why? Watts will make it have the ability to go louder, but when you aren't pushing the system to it's limits the extra power goes in to making the speakers sound better.
Hope that helps, and I really hope it all makes sense
03-11-2013, 09:31 PM
#4
I'm doing this on a bit of a budget. I'm older and married and just want a little better sound quality. I'm not wasting money on amps if I don't need to as I honestly have no intention of keeping either one of these cars for maybe longer than I have to pay on them which is 3 1/2 more years. At that time I'll probably trade both in for two new Mustangs, providing I like the way they look, or at worst two lightly used 2014 Mustang GTs or maybe a GT and Shelby.
03-11-2013, 09:56 PM
#5
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: California
Posts: 477
That makes a lot of sense... Wish I had sense like that lol, I am married and we got a 2013 last september 
, I had a complete system in my 06, then I moved it to the 13, so if you do get an amp, or nice speakers, or anything like that, you can move it to the new vehicle as long as you can afford to buy it now.
I do think that if you want the best sound without an amp that you could get a new HU then new speakers. I had a new HU for a while with stock speakers, and it definitely sounded better, adding speakers without an amp will improve the sound as well.
To the issue, do you want subwoofers, or would a good speaker set work for you? if you get a component set like I had they will sound great, and while they don't thump like a sub will, they still can most of the bass notes.
, I had a complete system in my 06, then I moved it to the 13, so if you do get an amp, or nice speakers, or anything like that, you can move it to the new vehicle as long as you can afford to buy it now. I do think that if you want the best sound without an amp that you could get a new HU then new speakers. I had a new HU for a while with stock speakers, and it definitely sounded better, adding speakers without an amp will improve the sound as well.
To the issue, do you want subwoofers, or would a good speaker set work for you? if you get a component set like I had they will sound great, and while they don't thump like a sub will, they still can most of the bass notes.
03-12-2013, 07:53 AM
#6
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 917
The door speakers in my 2012 are marked 50W, they look very cheap and have a very small magnet.
The door subs were dual 1.2 ohm speakers. They are driven by the factory amp which uses a similar circuit to the output of the head, they just duplicate it and run the same signal to both voice coils.
I replaced them with the 4Ohm Shelby subs, they have a single bolt in the back that keeps them from rattling just like the factory speakers. The factory amp will not drive the Shelby subs.
The rear speakers are 25W but have a much larger magnet than the door speaker.
If you replace the door subs you will need to add an amp.
The door subs were dual 1.2 ohm speakers. They are driven by the factory amp which uses a similar circuit to the output of the head, they just duplicate it and run the same signal to both voice coils.
I replaced them with the 4Ohm Shelby subs, they have a single bolt in the back that keeps them from rattling just like the factory speakers. The factory amp will not drive the Shelby subs.
The rear speakers are 25W but have a much larger magnet than the door speaker.
If you replace the door subs you will need to add an amp.
03-12-2013, 08:24 AM
#7
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: CT
Posts: 52
It sounds like, from your description that the factory amp may be running in 1 ohm. I will look around and see if I can find any factory wiring diagrams for the stereo in your car.
Mine has the shaker 1000 so it is very different.
Mine has the shaker 1000 so it is very different.
03-12-2013, 08:27 AM
#8
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Missouri
Posts: 49
here's a link to some products you may be interested in..
http://www.kicker.com/content/SoundGate_Ford
And one to some information on what a pain in the *** Shaker 500/1000 systems are.
http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/200...oryAudioSystem
aside that.. for a factory setup the Shaker system is ok. replacing the speakers in the car will only marginally improve your sound quality, as the factory amps were specifically designed for the factory speakers and not running better/higher quality aftermarket speakers. A couple of companies kicker, alpine make door subs that will fit in the stock 8" hole. they will NOT function to their potential with the factory amp just hooked up. Impedance is wildly different.
that's not to say it won't be a sound difference or quality improvement, it will but I don't think you'll be too impressed with the change. Also, if you plan to hook an aftermarket head unit up you will need to wire in resistors to the factory amps, or you'll get an annoying pop out of the speakers every time you key on. and or spend the money for the "adapter" that does the same thing.
Honestly, my best advice if you don't want to spend a bunch of money but want a little better sound.. just replace the door/read deck speakers.. there's a dozen great 4Ohm sets out there. leave the factory subs alone. and enjoy.
http://www.kicker.com/content/SoundGate_Ford
And one to some information on what a pain in the *** Shaker 500/1000 systems are.
http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/200...oryAudioSystem
aside that.. for a factory setup the Shaker system is ok. replacing the speakers in the car will only marginally improve your sound quality, as the factory amps were specifically designed for the factory speakers and not running better/higher quality aftermarket speakers. A couple of companies kicker, alpine make door subs that will fit in the stock 8" hole. they will NOT function to their potential with the factory amp just hooked up. Impedance is wildly different.
that's not to say it won't be a sound difference or quality improvement, it will but I don't think you'll be too impressed with the change. Also, if you plan to hook an aftermarket head unit up you will need to wire in resistors to the factory amps, or you'll get an annoying pop out of the speakers every time you key on. and or spend the money for the "adapter" that does the same thing.
Honestly, my best advice if you don't want to spend a bunch of money but want a little better sound.. just replace the door/read deck speakers.. there's a dozen great 4Ohm sets out there. leave the factory subs alone. and enjoy.
03-12-2013, 03:16 PM
#9
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: IL
Posts: 368
here's a link to some products you may be interested in..
http://www.kicker.com/content/SoundGate_Ford
And one to some information on what a pain in the *** Shaker 500/1000 systems are.
http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/200...oryAudioSystem
aside that.. for a factory setup the Shaker system is ok. replacing the speakers in the car will only marginally improve your sound quality, as the factory amps were specifically designed for the factory speakers and not running better/higher quality aftermarket speakers. A couple of companies kicker, alpine make door subs that will fit in the stock 8" hole. they will NOT function to their potential with the factory amp just hooked up. Impedance is wildly different.
that's not to say it won't be a sound difference or quality improvement, it will but I don't think you'll be too impressed with the change. Also, if you plan to hook an aftermarket head unit up you will need to wire in resistors to the factory amps, or you'll get an annoying pop out of the speakers every time you key on. and or spend the money for the "adapter" that does the same thing.
Honestly, my best advice if you don't want to spend a bunch of money but want a little better sound.. just replace the door/read deck speakers.. there's a dozen great 4Ohm sets out there. leave the factory subs alone. and enjoy.
http://www.kicker.com/content/SoundGate_Ford
And one to some information on what a pain in the *** Shaker 500/1000 systems are.
http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/200...oryAudioSystem
aside that.. for a factory setup the Shaker system is ok. replacing the speakers in the car will only marginally improve your sound quality, as the factory amps were specifically designed for the factory speakers and not running better/higher quality aftermarket speakers. A couple of companies kicker, alpine make door subs that will fit in the stock 8" hole. they will NOT function to their potential with the factory amp just hooked up. Impedance is wildly different.
that's not to say it won't be a sound difference or quality improvement, it will but I don't think you'll be too impressed with the change. Also, if you plan to hook an aftermarket head unit up you will need to wire in resistors to the factory amps, or you'll get an annoying pop out of the speakers every time you key on. and or spend the money for the "adapter" that does the same thing.
Honestly, my best advice if you don't want to spend a bunch of money but want a little better sound.. just replace the door/read deck speakers.. there's a dozen great 4Ohm sets out there. leave the factory subs alone. and enjoy.
That PAC module can be had at Walmart for $80 (cheapest I've seen it), just FYI if you're going this route.
03-12-2013, 08:37 PM
#10
Well after some thought I've decided against the speakers for now, it just seems like an over all pain and after doing multiple stereo systems, at my age, I want to do as little wiring as possible. I'm ordering the subs, amps, hide away boxes, and NVX in line converter and just going with that for now. Being that I'm moving in 3-4 weeks for work and have a nice 6 hour drive ahead of me I wanna jam the way there so at least the subs will help get rid of that "2D sound effect."
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