I have Che relo brackets.

I changed my lca's to spohn poly/del-sphere, but stupid me put one on backwards and I was getting a clunking over bumps. I noticed my mistake when I pulled them to tighten the del-sphere bushing(I read it will clunk if you don't tighten it). So my control arms looked like this / /, instead of like this / \. I'll report back tomorrow with my final opinion on the Del-sphere arms, but even with one backwards, I had improved traction, especially when accelerating while turning. They must articulate better than the J&M's, because I'd get tire squeal before, but none now.

 

DOH! LOL, I'd be willing to bet this fixes everything. An alignment wouldn't be a bad idea as well...just to be safe.

 

I had the J&M control arms on there correctly, I just put the spohns on 2 days ago. I've aligned the rear and just had the front end aligned when I installed gt500 front lower control arms.

The spohns are adjustable, so I'm going to play with the instant center and see if that helps.

 

Have you considered stiffer engine mounts to go with that Whipple?

What I'm getting at is that the hop may not be coming from the axle rotating semi-uncontrollably in the pinion angle sense, but from the rest of the powertrain vibrating in the torsional sense about the crank/transmission shafting and making for widely varying torque at the wheels.


Norm

 

I had poly motor mounts, but didn't like all the vibration. I did notice the power transmitted better/quicker to the rear tires.

I tested the spohn's on the way home and couldn't get it to hop. The clunk is now gone. The real test will be on a wet road.

 

^^This is solid advice. I wouldn't recommend running a Whipple on stock motor mounts, although it can certainly be done.

 

Interesting how the manual cars suffer from wheel hop where as the autos rarely have this issue. Norms point is may support this. I bet the auto trans weighs more than the manual therefore stops some of the vibration.

 

You get "absorption" across the torque converter of any hop-generating vibration that tries to get started. Works the transmission fluid a little harder, probably heats it up a little extra, and maybe causes a little cavitation (I'm kind of guessing on this last), but the fluid not being rigid like a MT clutch does to some extent isolate the wheels from the engine as far as vibrations are concerned.


Norm