CMcNam

Here's some pictures of the clutch installation. I went with the Exedy Mach 400 and their lightweight flywheel. There are a lot of things I would do differently with this. First is that I would not do it, I'd rather pay someone else (that's saying a lot from me). If it must be done in the garage, find a lift. Use ratcheting box wrenches. Have a friend available. Be sure to remove the battery and the box it sits on (it will be much easier to access the top of the transmission).


































And here's the Brembos, MUCH easier to install. Anyone who is thinking about having someone else do your brakes, do them yourself. Very easy.













Now, I really am looking for constructive feedback on anything. If you see something wrong I did with the installation, please, let me know. I am open to all tips and tricks, no hard feelings here (as long as it's not about aesthetics...I love how my car looks!).

Edit: for anyone curious, the lightweight Exedy flywheel (steel) is about six pounds lighter on the scale I used. It seems to rev faster, but since I am still breaking in the clutch I haven't driven the car hard, so I can't tell. Worth it? Yes, absolutely. Every pound of rotating mass lost is huge. I haven't noticed any detriment to acceleration and it is much easier to drive with this setup because it engages quicker (and you can tell when it engages instead of not being sure with the stock setup) and since it revs faster, it is easier to get it into the proper RPM range for driving and launching. Novice here, so take my anecdotes with a grain of salt.

CMcNam

Finally got around to getting the Shelby Terlingua hood and GT/CS rear bumper ready. Abstract Fiberglass in LA is doing the work. The hood has a few rough edges but is in good shape overall.

Stang-aholic

wow thats a lot of work so far! when you re-installed the bell housing to the motor did you align it with one of the tools you can rent from autozone? I did a trans swap w my dad on his 351w powered Cobra (two seater no top) and it was a B#$%@ getting the bell housing realigned on the motor.

I dont know if this is still necessary with newer cars, I was thinking about a swap on my car too. I guess since you didn't swap the trans or use a new bell housing it probably didn't need to do it.

CMcNam

No, I just lined it back up and bolted it back on, and it was definitely a pain to do. Had I known there's a tool to do I might have done that!

clix813

The ticking sound is most likely exhaust leaking after taking off the h pipe. I did mine my self and could tell it had a slight leak only would hear it when under the car. I just had my clutch done at a shop and it seems like its leaking more so I need to get under there and tighten it up.

Stang-aholic

it doesnt really make life easier, actually it adds more steps. the tool is used like this:



note this is not a mustang.

you are true'ing the bell housing to the pilot bearing on the crankshaft the tool measures the tolerance of the bell housing to motor to make sure there is no conflicting alignment, so when you install the tranny to the bell housing the input shaft is dead center of the flywheel and clutch assembly, preventing long term wear and tear on the transmission input shaft as well as vibrations. This tool can be used anywhere on the flywheel (it mounts magnetically) and it will travel in a concentric cirlce no matter where it is on the flywheel. No matter where you put the magbase as long as you have room for the dial indicator around the lip of the bell housing it will give you a true circle.

To fix a bell housing out of tolerance requires offset bolts (in millimeters of offset from a strait bolt, nifty things they are!)

EDIT* From FRPP:
Last 2 questions
http://www.fordracingparts.com/Faq/Faq.asp

CMcNam

The mechanic that worked at the body shop I took the hood to just told me that today as well. It makes sense as getting the H-pipe tight was very difficult. I hope that's all it is, thanks!

Holy cow. I misunderstood, I just used the plastic pilot bearing alignment tool that came with the clutch, worked like a charm.

Stang-aholic

I dont think I explained it properly, But then again I do not know if this is necessary when using the stock bell housing, I have yet to find out that information. Here is a step by step I found explaining the process.
http://www.hurst-drivelines.com/wp-c...d-6-15-09A.pdf
also some smart h!ck building a crappy chevy motor... at least he know what hes talking about haha

EDIT*
you should be ok using the stock bell housing. If anything pops up later youll know what it is! haha
https://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l...alignment.html This was for an old 5.0, but Im goin out on a limb here to say it probably also pertains to 05+ too

CMcNam

Just a quick update, the "snicking" sound was an exhaust leak where the H-pipe connects to the manifold (as was stated here, thanks!). Made sure everything was tight and there's no noise now.

tigercrazy718

better than what i thought it was lol. probably shouldve thought of that suggestion but when i heard tapping it was a misfiring spark plug