Passenger Rear Squeak
09-19-2013, 10:03 PM
#1
Chop Mod
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: OK
Posts: 3,333
Passenger Rear Squeak
Over the last year or so my husband has pretty much replaced everything in the rear end of my car. It has a 8.8 out an '06. New shocks/struts, springs and panhard bar. He also replaced the brake pads and rotors. There is still a god awful squeak coming from the passenger side rear. I can hear it with each rotation and it tends to slack off when the brakes are completely compressed. A Ford dealership said it was a dragging caliper last week and that's when my husband replaced both rear calipers. It's still making the noise, if not worse now.
Any ideas? Bearing maybe? Maybe installing the calipers wrong? Could something be wrong with the rear end?
Any help would be great. Thanks, guys.
Any ideas? Bearing maybe? Maybe installing the calipers wrong? Could something be wrong with the rear end?
Any help would be great. Thanks, guys.
09-20-2013, 04:05 AM
#2
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: CA
Posts: 1,670
It could still be a dragging caliper. A flexible or hard brake line may be pinched or crimped somewhere not letting the brake fluid flow out of the caliper to let it release the brake pads.
Alternative could be contaminated brake pads. If your hubby didn’t replace the brake pads when he replaced the calipers, then that could be the problem. If some oil, grease or gunk got on the brake pad surface (which does happen from time to time) it will slide instead of clamp onto the brake rotor and squeak in the process.
Alternative could be a bad wheel bearing.
Might be a good idea to put the rear end up on jack stands, block the front wheels, and spin the rear wheel and listen for the squeak. If it reproduces, try removing the brake pads and see if it still reproduces. If it doesn’t then the problem is the brake pads or stuck caliper. If it does, then its probably a wheel bearing.
Alternative could be contaminated brake pads. If your hubby didn’t replace the brake pads when he replaced the calipers, then that could be the problem. If some oil, grease or gunk got on the brake pad surface (which does happen from time to time) it will slide instead of clamp onto the brake rotor and squeak in the process.
Alternative could be a bad wheel bearing.
Might be a good idea to put the rear end up on jack stands, block the front wheels, and spin the rear wheel and listen for the squeak. If it reproduces, try removing the brake pads and see if it still reproduces. If it doesn’t then the problem is the brake pads or stuck caliper. If it does, then its probably a wheel bearing.
09-20-2013, 02:41 PM
#3
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
Having done the rear brakes on this mustang for the first time recently I would recommend the following.
Take the tire off of the offending noisy corner, take the caliper with pads off, take the pads out, reseat the piston in the caliper all the way (using the right tool to twist the piston as it gets pushed). Reinstall everything and let the caliper readjust itself.
When I did my brakes I somehow had my calipers over adjust themselves to the point where they were dragging. I had to take both sides off in my case and reset them both to get them to adjustment correctly. There is not way to get them to back off after they have adjusted without resetting the piston in the caliper. In my case the piston came out too far to where it was always in contact with the rotor (no air gap).
Also, check the condition and routing of the parking brake cable. If it's pinched on one side, that side will drag, if it's routed incorrectly, it will bind and cause drag.
P.S. Unlike most calipers where there is some slight spring action provided by the pad backing or an actual spring to keep the pad off the rotor surface when the brakes are not engaged, our rears do not have this. Instead, they rely on the parking brake cable and a mechanical fulcrum to achieve this. If the cable is binding or routed wrong, this fulcrum doesn't work, thus the draggy brakes.
Take the tire off of the offending noisy corner, take the caliper with pads off, take the pads out, reseat the piston in the caliper all the way (using the right tool to twist the piston as it gets pushed). Reinstall everything and let the caliper readjust itself.
When I did my brakes I somehow had my calipers over adjust themselves to the point where they were dragging. I had to take both sides off in my case and reset them both to get them to adjustment correctly. There is not way to get them to back off after they have adjusted without resetting the piston in the caliper. In my case the piston came out too far to where it was always in contact with the rotor (no air gap).
Also, check the condition and routing of the parking brake cable. If it's pinched on one side, that side will drag, if it's routed incorrectly, it will bind and cause drag.
P.S. Unlike most calipers where there is some slight spring action provided by the pad backing or an actual spring to keep the pad off the rotor surface when the brakes are not engaged, our rears do not have this. Instead, they rely on the parking brake cable and a mechanical fulcrum to achieve this. If the cable is binding or routed wrong, this fulcrum doesn't work, thus the draggy brakes.
Last edited by Derf00; 09-20-2013 at 02:47 PM.
09-20-2013, 03:14 PM
#4
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 277
Having done the rear brakes on this mustang for the first time recently I would recommend the following.
Take the tire off of the offending noisy corner, take the caliper with pads off, take the pads out, reseat the piston in the caliper all the way (using the right tool to twist the piston as it gets pushed). Reinstall everything and let the caliper readjust itself.
When I did my brakes I somehow had my calipers over adjust themselves to the point where they were dragging. I had to take both sides off in my case and reset them both to get them to adjustment correctly. There is not way to get them to back off after they have adjusted without resetting the piston in the caliper. In my case the piston came out too far to where it was always in contact with the rotor (no air gap).
Also, check the condition and routing of the parking brake cable. If it's pinched on one side, that side will drag, if it's routed incorrectly, it will bind and cause drag.
P.S. Unlike most calipers where there is some slight spring action provided by the pad backing or an actual spring to keep the pad off the rotor surface when the brakes are not engaged, our rears do not have this. Instead, they rely on the parking brake cable and a mechanical fulcrum to achieve this. If the cable is binding or routed wrong, this fulcrum doesn't work, thus the draggy brakes.
Take the tire off of the offending noisy corner, take the caliper with pads off, take the pads out, reseat the piston in the caliper all the way (using the right tool to twist the piston as it gets pushed). Reinstall everything and let the caliper readjust itself.
When I did my brakes I somehow had my calipers over adjust themselves to the point where they were dragging. I had to take both sides off in my case and reset them both to get them to adjustment correctly. There is not way to get them to back off after they have adjusted without resetting the piston in the caliper. In my case the piston came out too far to where it was always in contact with the rotor (no air gap).
Also, check the condition and routing of the parking brake cable. If it's pinched on one side, that side will drag, if it's routed incorrectly, it will bind and cause drag.
P.S. Unlike most calipers where there is some slight spring action provided by the pad backing or an actual spring to keep the pad off the rotor surface when the brakes are not engaged, our rears do not have this. Instead, they rely on the parking brake cable and a mechanical fulcrum to achieve this. If the cable is binding or routed wrong, this fulcrum doesn't work, thus the draggy brakes.
09-22-2013, 03:03 PM
#5
Chop Mod
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: OK
Posts: 3,333
Thanks, guys. He worked on it this weekend and the squeak is minimal now. He ordered new ebrake cables to replace them next weekend and hopefully it will all be gone then. And hopefully my ebrake will actually work again (it hadn't worked in a few years. Ha)
09-24-2013, 08:18 AM
#7
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: DE
Posts: 546
Did the new e-brake cable work? To me, it sounds like you have a bent axle shaft. I had the exact same issue on my last mustang. Tried all of the stuff you did, then jacked up the rear of the car and saw a wobble in the wheel when spinning. Its an easy fix for a weekend mechanic. I went with Moser axles and that was the fix.
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