nsult

So I have a few more questions now.

What is the big difference stepping into a 2010? The reason I ask is my price point and what I want to stay under.

Also, I know mods can impact the car/engine, but smaller things such as CAI, headers, exhaust or throttle body shouldn't impact a car that much should it?

I have found tons... I mean tons... of Mustangs around the area (500 miles or so) that I feel like I am shopping new Mustangs given the amount of choices I have.

Buchez09GT

2010's just a newer body style really. Same 4.6L engine. There maybe some alterations in the interior decor area. IMO, I'm not a fan of how the 2010-2012's look. Some of them look better than others from the front. Once you see that back side, its full of nopes! For me anyways.

Like everyone else is saying, get something with low mileage and little to no mods. This way you can be almost certain that nobody messed with it. Heck, I just traded my 09 GT in. I kept all the original parts for this very reason, to return to stock... plus the dealership will never give me more for my mods. Anywho, you want to get something that is like a blank canvas. This way when you are buying Mods, you get the ones that YOU want and can mold the car into something that YOU are proud to say, "I did this!!"

If it helps with the dealerships, I just traded my 09 GT in with 46k and they gave me $17500. They're asking $21500. There was no maintenance needed and I'm pretty sure the dealer is looking for a quick flip. I'm sure if you stay patient and keep on Autotrader.com and looking through your local dealers you can find a gem, and talk the dealer down to a price you feel comfortable paying. Never let them talk to you about monthly payments and don't be scared to walk out if you feel they're not being reasonable. Have your own financing ready too.

IMO anyways...

LordRipberger

Unless you don't have the extra money, I would try to get anything 2012+. It should be really cheap in another month or two when the 2015s are hitting lots and customers can buy them.

If you heart is set on those years, then try to find as low milage as possible. Garage queens would be best; you know they were treated with care. (an assumption, but a usually a safe one). I would steer clear of heavily engine modded stangs. When people buy upgrades to make their car go really fast they want to test it, which in my mind, means abuse. Abuse = expensive breakdowns is only a matter of time. Exhaust or cosmetic mods, you are ok.

Take it for a drive with the windows up and the music off. The older years usually start suffering from the plastic parts rattling by now and that can get really annoying. And if you start looking at higher milage cars post again, a whole other story of things too look for.

Always ask for history of maintenance, oil changes, and how close they kept to the schedule maint. book provided my Ford. Inspect the tires and rear fenders, if there is evidence of burnouts, I would probably walk away. It just depends on how often and how hard. I have seen corvettes and mustangs blow engines from doing burnouts. So even though they may not blow there engine because they didn't do it long enough, it wasn't good for the car.

nsult

I have it somewhat narrowed down.

2006 GT stock with 36,000 miles for 14,500
2009 GT stock with 56,000 miles for 15,200

What are your thoughts new with higher miles or older with fewer miles? Also, should I go for one of these now or wait a couple more months for the 2015 Mustangs to roll out and see what used ones hit the market?

nsult

I should add I found a 2006 GT stock with 6,000 miles for 17,500

nsult

So I did some digging on the 2006 with 6k miles. From 2008 to 2011 it just vanished according to carfax. It was purchased in 2008 and there is no title information, service information or anything until the car was sold again in 2011. Would anyone be worried about engine/transmission condition if it just sat for 3 years without being run and having the fluids changed?

ford4v429

no license renewals? if you cant find out if it was plated, I'd be more worried whoever bought it mighta somehow unhooked the odometer- no idea if thats even possible on a mustang though, with abs and all...

if it sat 3 yrs without fluid changes, if the oil was fresh, no worries about the oil causing corrosion- but the cylinders sitting dry 3 yrs would likely lead to some corrosion in the cylinders with exhaust valves open- they really need ran AT LEAST occasionally to keep oil film where it should be... but if stored with old oil contaminated with blowby stuff, it can get bad- combustion by products combined with drawing moisture, can get the oil a bit acidic... best to store with fresh oil, or better yet run/change... my 09 still hasnt been driven, but has had annual oil changes and gets started every couple weeks and fully warmed up. not as good as driving it, but its still a 4 mile virgin

nsult

Would you shy away from a mustang with these mods? As far as I am aware these are the only mods on the car. Will the 3.73 Ford racing gears impact this car a daily driver on gas mileage?

JBA 3" CAT-BACK DUAL EXHAUST
FORD RACING 3.73 GEARS
GRANATELLI COLD AIR INTAKE SYSTEM
BBR POWER PLUS TWIN 62MM THROTTLE BODY

arby

I'd shy away from all 2005-2009 models. I own one. Water leaking in to the interior. Ford's fix? Put an "awning" over the SJB (fuse box) so it may not get wet. Mine got wet, anyway. I think I fixed the leak, still haven't figured out the non-working horn. The horn does work, hitting the alarm.

nsult

Sorry, but my budget can't really get what I want in the 2010+ newer cars and I am not really a fan of the previous model. The foxbody is pretty nice, but if I am going back that far I would just look for a classic 60s mustang.