HFCA

I see there is no dipstick or real way to check level, yet manual says to change at 30K? Is this a dealer deal? Mine 64K on it, V8.

JimC

It isn't the easiest thing to do correctly. The drain plug is a two piece. You drain it by taking the whole thing out, then replace fluid by taking the center part out and inserting a tool through there. You then pump fluid up into the transmission until it starts to drain out, put the center plug back in place. Start the car and get the transmission up to operating temp, run it through the gears, and fill again until it starts to drain back. Put the center plug back in.

Then, start the car, put it in gear, remove the center plug, put your tool in place, and start to pump fluid again until it drains back.

Not the easiest thing to do without a lift - especially with the drive shaft spinning over your head. And very easy to end up underfilling the transmission and getting a slip until you can get more fluid in.

For that reason, after trying it on my 2006, I gave in and had the dealer do it the next time.

HFCA

oh boy what a pain, I'll have a shop do it

HFCA

So if they are sealed, does that mean every 30 K anyways???

HFCA

So I'm thinking synthetic at a car shop

Art161

According to Ford, every 30k if operated primarily under any of the following special operating condition--extensive idling and/or low-speed driving for long distances as in heavy commercial use such as delivery, taxi, patrol car or livery.

Otherwise, every 150k. Some people on this forum think that's way too many miles to go even under the normal schedule.

Also, Ford is silent about racing use.

HFCA

wow! I'm thinkin every 50K w synthetic!

Derf00

It's really not that hard to do.

Remove the outer drain plug and let it drain out. Put the drain plug back in and either drop the pan and replace the filter or leave the pan in and just remove the center hex bolt. You can either get the ford rotunda/OTC part number 6604 nipple or make your own from the hardware store. I forget the thread but I know it uses a 1/8" NPT or 1/4 NPT standard thread.

Anyways, get a pump of sorts, (Just look up a Oil Safe Pump kit) and pick one of those up. Yes, they can get expensive but buying one and the supplies yourself will still cost less than one trip to the dealer ($170 at the dealer). You can also make one from a $20 home depot chemical sprayer (the one or two gallon size. Just modify the hose to fit over your fill nipple on the transmission.

DO NOT pick up the cheap $10 pump at Walmart they leak and take 15+ pumps for ONE quart. Multiply that times 6 or 7 quarts and the the awkward angle under the car it's a hassle with those.

Anyways, there are plenty of videos on Youtube for this type of thing. Just look up 5r55s transmission fluid change or this video.


BTW I would never go more than 30K on these tranny's between fluid changes. #1) heat over 190F starts to severely degrade it's life expectancy and ability to protect parts as well as engage gears correctly. Just look up "automatic transmission fluid life" .

Unless your car is never driven in the city or never idles long enough for the fan to kick on, every car falls under "special operating conditions". It's like 100K spark plugs. The only difference is that instead of getting poor MPG because the spark plugs are worn out (well before 100K) , you end up with transmission issues and excessive wear from degraded fluid.

But, you do what you want. There are a lot of people on here that resist something because it's not in the manual. (Brake fluid and P/S fluid both need to be replaced but that's not in any domestic manual).

JimC

It's not hard to do, but it is hard to do correctly. If you want to fill to the proper level you have to do it with the transmission up to temperature and car in gear. That is the problem, very easy to end up with an underfill and slipping.

Derf00

Where do you get with the car in gear? In Park after it's been warmed up, just like every other auto on the road. While the front are on ramps and the rears are on stands, keeps the car level enough and you can put it through the gears to make sure the fluid is circulated then let it idle until it warms up, about 10-15 minutes. Again, no different then any other auto on the road, just without a dipstick.

The only real hard part is to get the car high enough so you can get under it without hitting the exhaust. IDK, I've done it a couple times and I don't see what the fuss is about. My wife's VW Turbo Beetle with it's DSG tranny is exactly the same way.