TECH: replacing the stock throttle body
Longhaul, I am still battling with my TB. The car does not like it and I am having the exact same problems you are. Tried reseting the tension and now i'm idling too high and getting check engine lights too.
I'm not sure what i'm going to try next, let me know if you have any success.
I'm not sure what i'm going to try next, let me know if you have any success.
Hi guys,
I to installed the moto blue Tb. I also received the p2106,p2111 codes. Rough idles and even had no thottle reponse. It really about the installion. Then spring tension has to be just right. If you screw up the TPS or damage it like I did then forget. I finally got a good tuner shop(Dyno Shop in Santee,Ca) to reset the spring tention and Dyno it for me. I works great now. Need to drive it for 50 miles to adjust. I rarely get a rough idle of stickly rev.
Later
Dstang05
I to installed the moto blue Tb. I also received the p2106,p2111 codes. Rough idles and even had no thottle reponse. It really about the installion. Then spring tension has to be just right. If you screw up the TPS or damage it like I did then forget. I finally got a good tuner shop(Dyno Shop in Santee,Ca) to reset the spring tention and Dyno it for me. I works great now. Need to drive it for 50 miles to adjust. I rarely get a rough idle of stickly rev.
Later
Dstang05
The codes you got before are P2106 - Throttle Acuator Control System Forced Idle & P 2111 - Throttle Acutator Stuck Open.
The P 2106 is just a fail safe code - It will clear. The P 2111 is a simple adjustment of the idle screw. The blades were stuck to far open; a simple 1/2 counter clockwise will solve most issues with code and drivablity.
The P 2106 is just a fail safe code - It will clear. The P 2111 is a simple adjustment of the idle screw. The blades were stuck to far open; a simple 1/2 counter clockwise will solve most issues with code and drivablity.
ORIGINAL: DStang05
Hi guys,
I to installed the moto blue Tb. I also received the p2106,p2111 codes. Rough idles and even had no thottle reponse. It really about the installion. Then spring tension has to be just right. If you screw up the TPS or damage it like I did then forget. I finally got a good tuner shop(Dyno Shop in Santee,Ca) to reset the spring tention and Dyno it for me. I works great now. Need to drive it for 50 miles to adjust. I rarely get a rough idle of stickly rev.
Later
Dstang05
Hi guys,
I to installed the moto blue Tb. I also received the p2106,p2111 codes. Rough idles and even had no thottle reponse. It really about the installion. Then spring tension has to be just right. If you screw up the TPS or damage it like I did then forget. I finally got a good tuner shop(Dyno Shop in Santee,Ca) to reset the spring tention and Dyno it for me. I works great now. Need to drive it for 50 miles to adjust. I rarely get a rough idle of stickly rev.
Later
Dstang05
How has this impacted your gas mileage. Its funny that the CAI advertisements claim improved gas mileage. Exactly how when you are going to increase you fuel intake as well as your air intake?
I'm not sure if replacing the throttle body is a worthwhile upgrade, and I don't know if I believe the published increases in HP and torque.
The reason for my skepticism is that the FR500C, which is powered by a mod 5.0 with GT heads, only uses a dual-57mm throttle body.
Certainly a stock 4.6 will not need more air intake than a race car with a bigger engine.
The reason for my skepticism is that the FR500C, which is powered by a mod 5.0 with GT heads, only uses a dual-57mm throttle body.
Certainly a stock 4.6 will not need more air intake than a race car with a bigger engine.
I HAD A 62MM THROTTLE BODY INSTALLED ON MY 05 GT, AND HAD MANY PROBLEMS ALSO! IT ALSO WENT INTO FAILSAFE MODE AND WAS VIRTUALLY UNDRIVEABLE TOO! HAD TO TAKE IT TO A DEALER AND THEY HAD TO PUT A NEW STOCK THROTTLE BODY ON AND IT ALSO BLEW THE PCM ON THE CAR! THIS WAS PROFESSIONALLY INSTALLED, SO YES I AM IN AGREEMENT THAT IT MAY NOT BE WORTH ALL THE RISK FOR REWARD ON THIS MOD JUST YET!
Above it was written that the "dual 55 mm stock orifices are equal to one 77.78 mm total air intake." Forgive my ignorance but why doesn't it eaqual 110 MM (2x55)? Can anyone tell me?
ORIGINAL: Longhaul89
Okay, am I the only one that hates his motoblue?[:@]
Installed it, with the batt. disconnected,etc. set the trottle spring one click.
Fired up car, let it run ten minutes like they said. Then after turning it off, started it and drove it. Horrible. Rough, can't maintain a decent steady rpm. Also triggered the failsafe mode on the engine. Will not idle even, hunts and seeks. Car ran great before this change. Have C&L intake, Diablo tuner (with the 91 octane tune) and slightly better exhaust (bassalini x pipe&magnaflow cat back).
I tried again tonight driving it, after disconnecting the battery again for more than 12 hours. Same thing.Failsafe again. I tried to carfeully put some highway miles on it to maybe let it learn and settle in(after hitting reset), but to no avail. Tried adding a click to throttle spring, no change so I moved it back. Real slow to come down from revs,too. Makes shifting fun...I don't know what to change on the tuner, this is out of my scope of things.
Anyone else have simular problems and if so , how did you cure them? If at all.
Appreciate the help as the car is virtually undrivable right now. [X(]
Okay, am I the only one that hates his motoblue?[:@]
Installed it, with the batt. disconnected,etc. set the trottle spring one click.
Fired up car, let it run ten minutes like they said. Then after turning it off, started it and drove it. Horrible. Rough, can't maintain a decent steady rpm. Also triggered the failsafe mode on the engine. Will not idle even, hunts and seeks. Car ran great before this change. Have C&L intake, Diablo tuner (with the 91 octane tune) and slightly better exhaust (bassalini x pipe&magnaflow cat back).
I tried again tonight driving it, after disconnecting the battery again for more than 12 hours. Same thing.Failsafe again. I tried to carfeully put some highway miles on it to maybe let it learn and settle in(after hitting reset), but to no avail. Tried adding a click to throttle spring, no change so I moved it back. Real slow to come down from revs,too. Makes shifting fun...I don't know what to change on the tuner, this is out of my scope of things.
Anyone else have simular problems and if so , how did you cure them? If at all.
Appreciate the help as the car is virtually undrivable right now. [X(]
Dont know if this helps but its what I know of Failsafe mode
Cheers
It seems to me that since all these large bore thorttle body manufacturures claim there is no tune necessary, what they are really doing to get their horsepower is tricking the computer. By allowing more air to enter the engine than the MAF sensor read, you are effectivally leaning the engine out and its my guess that the factory tune is somewhere rich of a stoichiometric ratio. The tricked engine therefore runs closer to a stoichiometric ratio. Now combine that with the bigger air intake (and non factory tune) and now you have a potential problem. The tune that came with your air intake settup is probably closer to stoichiometric value. with the larger throttle body on the non factory tune you probably exceeded lean limit and the computer goes into limp home mode. I would contact the maker of the either or both the throttle body or the air intake and ask if they have a tune for this set up.
Now back to my question: why does 2x55 = 77 and not 110?
Now back to my question: why does 2x55 = 77 and not 110?


