so 600 is the safe drivable limit of the blocks? i know i've seen a guy have a track car at 750-800hp/tq. he said he hasnt had a problem out of it.

 

My coupewent 9.83 @ 137 at 2925lb with a F4TE roller block (the weakest of the 351Ws). I sold the car this spring but would have had no problem with pushing another 100rwhp or so out of it.

There are 2 ways to convert a non-roller block to a roller: the cheap way and the correct way. The correct way does not affect the strength of the block. Even the cheap way you'd have a hard time proving it weakens the block. Or you can just buy the roller block and it all fits fine. With the additional cost of the roller block, coverting a non-roller the correct way is about the same price. The older block is stronger.

For your goal, any block will handle it if you're using a power adder. If you're trying for 600rwhp N/A, I'd probably use an aftermarket block.

 

FullAuto, how much hp would you say you had at the wheels the f4 block. i have a D9 and i am expecting 425-450 at wheels N/A. I will be spraying a 150 shot as soon as i can find a nice used wilson plate. I am at full weight minus hood and efi acc. I also weigh in at a whopping 255. With what i am expecting N/A and the 150 shot with et streets, what would you guess as a 1/4 mile time.

 

so what are the two conversion ways?

 

I made about 590-600rwhp on the bottle. The build wasn't that aggressive and it only hada 6200rpm shift point. If you're shifting high with that solid cam, then you might want tostop at that 600rwhp.There are lots ofvariables, but low 10s should bein the range if you're a little heavy.

 

what tranny are you 2 using to hld the torque?

 

The cheap way is to use stock style lifters, tap in the spider to hold them and use a reduced base circle cam. The RBC cam is crap.

The correct way is to use link bar lifters. They will cost you $350-400 for the lifters.

BTW, this is for a hyd. roller conversion in a non roller block. If you want a solid roller, it's expensive no matter what the block.

 

I ran a PA Supercomp C4 in my coupe. I run a PA Supercomp C4 in my hatch also. It made a little more power but ran a little slower because it was ~500lbs heavier. I'm about to test it behind a bigger motor with even more power. It's rated to 1000hp with a lifetime warranty.

 

ok, i can live with 350-400. heres the setup i plan on tring to run when i get my 351 stang

351 stroked to 408 (forged)
holley 600-650
afr 205cc
i dont know much about cams, so i was planning on using a .500+ lift and 580 duration
high compression pistons
h beam rods
a dual planeweinand intake

any suggestions?

 

If i had to guess i would say FullAuto is an Automatic guy. I run a TKO-600. And FullAuto the cam maker said i should shift at 6800-7000 rpm. I will just have to wait for the dyno to see what kind of power i am laying down. What kind of dizzy gear would you go with Full and what type of metal. I have a MSD dizzy, but i had 5 teeth shear off the gear. I am not sure why, but below the gear where it goes over the oil pump shaft there is a wear pattern there about 1/2 long from the bottom. I have heard of people having to measure and cut off some the dizzy. Know anything about that? At first i thought my oil pump froze, but i can turn it by hand and it seems fine. To make sure though i am going to hook a drill to it and watch my oil pressure. The gear on my dizzy is not bronze but it is not magnetic, my mag. will not stick to it. I hope all the teeth stayed in the front sump, but i am wondering how to get them out with out dropping oil pan. Some have said they will probably stay there and if they do move they will never get past the screen, what do you think?