[align=left]I am lookinmg at putting a 351w in my 88 hatch.
What kind of weight difference is there and should i beef up suspension?
I want to make around 550-600 N/A and then im gonna put a turbo (maybe 2 small turbos) and a small shot of nitrous (>100) later. My final goal is 700hp and 750 ft/lbs.

How much power can i make with the turbo setup on a windsor?
I dont want to run the block that hard.
I want something that sounds mean at the light and even badder at 6000rpm. (rough, racey idle)

Any ideas?
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R. Barn is kind of the resident 351 Turbo guru. You can build a 500-600rwhp (understand that I hate chassis dyno numbers) on motor and spray alone.

You would want to go the way of somewhat high end suspension mods, K member, solid upper and lowers or coil over conversion in the rear, I have always ran coil overs in the front.

I would say at the very least the following:

Aftermarket Block. FRRP Super Sport Siamesed Block, Dart block or the Mother of them all the Man-O-War block.
Fully forged internals.
Plenty of Heads 205cc runner and up CNC porting a major plus.
Custom camshaft
Built C-4
Tubular K Member
Solid upper and lowers in the rear, or Coil over conversion
I run the QA1 Coil Overs in the front, so I recommend them
Through body sub-frame connectors
Full torque box reinforcement (see tech articles Pro5.0 did a great one on this)
Learn to either A. Get handy with tuning, B. Get in good with a tuner if you decide to turbo/twin turbo.

You can achieve 700rwhp on a single turbo without much of a sweat, just make sure you have your ducks in order. The way my engine sits on the stand right now with the right intake and custom cam, I will probably hit in the vicinity of 575rw (408ci). And they produce a ton of torque which Turbo is only going to improve, so your drivetrain is going to need some loving.

If I left something out yell at me..

 

351W bore .03 over for 357ci - Lunati turbo cam - 9.5 compression - 200+cc heads
Twin T3/T4 60mm turbos - 2.5" exhaust - Super Vic EFI intake

700-750hp at the flywheel at 10-12psi and thats all a stock 351W block can handle.
give you around 600rwhp plus or minus.

You can punch it up to 700+rwhp with more boost and maybe water/meth injection
but you might blow up the block.

The extra weight does make it squat a little up front and you can feel it in extreme
corning, but its not bad at all. like an extra 100lbs for the 351 block

You'll need new everything ...... subframes, control arms, trans, clutch, axles, HD traction-loc ..... to plant the power

 

i still want the car to be stick. Is that possible?
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Tremec TKO 600 - 600ft/lbs trans., McLeod SFI bell, Centerforce dual friction clutch, Hvy Duty Traction-Loc, 31 spline axles

 

so 351w blocks can only handle 700 hp?

I want to prob. end up with a 400+ ci. engine.
408w or 427w
Which one would be better.
Can you list pros and cons
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1. 408 is better, less stress

2. No need to stroke it. you'll just over power the block with the turbos on stock displacement.
Whole reason I didnt do the extra expense of it. Just not necessary. Dont get hung up on having 400 cubes to have 400 cubes

3. You can try and run more than 700-750 flywheel, it might last ...... it might blow up
You're talking close to 1000hp now. If you want that much hp you really need to invest
in a $2,500+ Dart block.

Over 700hp and your cost in making it right is going to go up exponentionally.

If you got the budget no problem,
Guy over on the Corral.net just made 895rwhp at 11psi on TT-427ci Dart block

 

I say 408, longevity wise.

Rod Ratio (Rod to Stroke Ratio)
Rod Ratio or Rod to Stroke Ratio is the figure achieved when dividing a motor's rod length by its' stroke. This is an important calculation to understand since it informs us about a motor's rod angularity. A low Rod Ratio yields a high rod angle. For example, a motor with a 5.400" rod length and a 3.000" stroke yields a rod ratio of 1.8:1. If we maintain the same stroke and shorten the rod length to 5.000" we get a 1.7:1 rod ratio. The rod angle has increased.

A high rod angle or low Rod Ratio creates a greater potential for accelerated wear to cylinder walls, pistons, and piston rings. The illustrations below show why this is so. Figure 5 is exaggerated for effect but clearly shows how an extremely low Rod Ratio can drive the piston into the side of the cylinder wall.




Figure 4. Low Rod Angle. (High Rod Ratio)

Figure 5. High Rod Angle. (Low Rod Ratio)



By lengthening the rod, as stroke is increased, we can offset the increased rod angle. However, this requires further shortening of the piston. The further the piston is shortened the more likely the piston pin will intersect the oil ring groove, creating a potential for increased oil consumption. See Figure 6 below. Many piston companies however have engineered pistons to avoid this problem with tighter ring packs and



Figure 6. Shortened Piston. The further the piston is shortened the more likely the piston pin will intersect the oil ring groove.

bridge rings.

Either way, there comes a point when you cannot shorten the piston any further before dependabilty is compromised. As in the discussion about offset grinding, we have reached a limit to how far you can stroke a motor before some component or function is sacrificed.

The consensus amongst engine manufacturers is that a ratio of 1.50" is the lowest acceptable rod ratio for a street motor. Realistically, rod ratios between 1.65" - 1.80" are ideal. See the tables in the following section about stroker kits. Notice how the Rod Ratio decreases as stroker displacement increases.


The 427 is a powerhouse, but can be an issue in longevity due to this^

 

i have a 331 turboed and get 570 and 680ft, and let me tell you, do not miss a thing about the torque box and doing the rear end right, i learned the hard way, snapped a upper and threw the whole rear end out, fixed and put nice upper and lowers in than started going after the torque box, fixed and broke u joints, fixed and broker trans mounts, finally went solid mounts, broke a tail shaft went tko, now waiting to see what else is going to break..lol...and you need a good clutch, i have a centerforce dual frition and holds good, not the best but spinning at 60 still on the highway..lol..i have had a mess of stuff but its all worth it cause it runs like crazy, i have 210cc victor heads on mine with the 2.05 valves and a bbk race intake, there new one, very large injectors 75mm throttle body msd box, coil, and dis...shorty pipes to hot tube into a small intercooler and in...no ac or smog.. oh yea and the last thing is a lunati custom ground cam for my setup, i didnt get numbers with it yet but feel alot better now than a x cam..lol...

 

doesn't the 4.125 bore dart block solve the 427's poor R/S ratio? you'd just be using the larger bore to make up the extra cubes, right? probe industrieslists a 4.125 bore piston to make a 428W for use with a 6.25" rod and 4.00"stroke which = a R/S ratio of 1.5625. i believe that is the same as the 408?