Because imo not every company can specialize in making the best of every part. Just because they can build a bulletproof crankshaft doesn't mean their flywheel & damper is worth a damn. They could just mass produce those just in order to offer a balancing job = more money and customers. If you look at most of the engines out there, most guys don't use the same company/brand for every part. You'll see a mix of DSS, Edelbrock, Trickflow, Comp Cams, etc etc. Do you see what I mean? Thats just my opinion though. Your mileage may vary

 

Your block will literally rip itself in half before that assembly kit kicks the bucket.

 

I have used a few of these kits making the power you want and they are still holding, as stated above the block goes first!

The nodular crank isnt weak until you pass 6500rpm then you get into the iffy strenghts of the metal!

The kits are said to be good for 650 under 6500 rpms!

If the machine shop dosent need your balancer and plate for internally balanced setups you might want to ask questions!

They need plate bolts and cranks bolts in most apps to do the job also!

 

okay thank you guys for all the good info because from what i have gathered from all the info is that as long a i get a conservative tune i dont go above 6000 rpms and i get a spot on balance my stock block with this kit should be able to handle 550 hp if im understand right haha. but then also im guessing i have to tell the machine shop what balance i want the crank to and then go and buy the flywheel and damper already prebalanced from a good place? and also how do i decide which is the best balance to go with? what the best in your opinions for the money and keep my motor from blowing apart? zero, 28oz, 50oz? i still have so many questions but with all this info and money and factors it doesnt hurt to take awhileto plan things out right haha, but i am actualling getting ready to buy the kit from dss after i get all this figured out haha, once again i thank all of you so much.

 

A zero balance will let your engine rev faster since it won't have the extra weight on the outside ends of the crank. Acceleration will be faster with this. BUT, some people will say that having the extra weight on the end lets the engine "hang" as they shift, meaning the engine RPM's don't drop immediately as they would with a neutral (zero) balance. This gives them time to shift without losing RPM's. This is another reason why driver mods are of importance; I would personally go with a zero balance and learn to shift faster. After awhile, you'll get used to it.

 

doesnt zero balance cost alot though? i thought it cost like double almost and once i decide what the crank is going to be balanced at do i just go n buy a pre balanced fltwheel and damper?

 

is there a balance that lets you keep the vibrations down at higher rpms, and also what balance will make the motor last longer

 

also i was reading about internaly balancing cranks and apparently there are certain cranks easier to balance internally than others and i guess i was wondering how easy it will be to balance this one from dss internaly because some cranks are set up to be balanced easier than other and that it also has to do with the materials its made of and i think its called bobweight plays a roll in it too, and if the crank is balanced how do i know the damper and flywheel will be balanced with the crank? the whole balancing things is kind of confusing to me

 

I would not use a cast crank on any S/C engine......
Summit is not the only one selling stroker kits, try this........
www.coasthigh.com
You can do a lot better than Summit.........

 

^^This is where I got my entire rotating assembly. Nice quality pieces

BTW I was mistaken earlier. My crank is internally balanced, not the 28 oz