Mass Air Flow Sensor
#1
Mass Air Flow Sensor
Okay umm so my car was reverting to safe mode while I was driving so I took it in and had it looked at. The stealership told me that the problem was the mass air flow sensor, and they wanted $600 to fix it. However, I'm familiar with the part's location on the car and how to install it and Rock Auto has one for about $110. So, is it a good idea to just buy the RA one and install it myself or do y'all know if I maybe need a very specific one meant for a 2006 as opposed to a 2005 or 2009 or whatever?
#2
Same sensor. Simply remove it and bolt new one on and plug it in. Make sure you put it in the proper direction.
If you are completely stock, make sure the conector is plugged onto the sensor.
You probably were or are throwing codes, too; what codes are you getting?
If it is the MAF, it sometimes needs to be cleaned. Kind of early for it to fail on you, but it could just be bad.
If you are completely stock, make sure the conector is plugged onto the sensor.
You probably were or are throwing codes, too; what codes are you getting?
If it is the MAF, it sometimes needs to be cleaned. Kind of early for it to fail on you, but it could just be bad.
#3
Noob response ahead...
Umm where would I see these codes? I've heard of them but never like ran something to see them. I do have a crappy Ford tuner, would that be able to display them?
And what happened to it was I cleaned the air filter (I got a CAI) but apparently the filter wasn't designed to be oiled afterwards, but I didn't know that (again, I'm a noob), and the filter oil seeped down and got on the MAF Sensor which messed it up, so I'm not sure if that can be cleaned or not. The car's still at the shop so I haven't inspected the intake and sensor and whatnot myself, but I will probably get it back tonight or something if I can. I mean it still drives and sounds fine, but the computer glitches out and tells the car to go into safe mode if I really hit the gas.
Umm where would I see these codes? I've heard of them but never like ran something to see them. I do have a crappy Ford tuner, would that be able to display them?
And what happened to it was I cleaned the air filter (I got a CAI) but apparently the filter wasn't designed to be oiled afterwards, but I didn't know that (again, I'm a noob), and the filter oil seeped down and got on the MAF Sensor which messed it up, so I'm not sure if that can be cleaned or not. The car's still at the shop so I haven't inspected the intake and sensor and whatnot myself, but I will probably get it back tonight or something if I can. I mean it still drives and sounds fine, but the computer glitches out and tells the car to go into safe mode if I really hit the gas.
Last edited by Natalya[AF]; 05-08-2009 at 02:00 PM.
#4
Ok that helps. The MAFs are very sensitive and you dont want to get any fluids on them.
The fact of filter oil getting on it what caused your problem. They can be cleaned, but must be cleaned carefully. Also, all the oil MUST be removed (you probably need to replace the filter, too, since it got oiled), so that it won't contaminate a new MAF, if you end up getting one.
The maf has to be cleaned or replaced, and the source of oil removed, and any oil in the intake air pipe removed (between the MAF and filter).
Only certain filters take oil, and even those have specific procedures for getting the oil on right.
(As far as 'codes', when your check engine light comes on, you can read the daignostic codes, using a hand-held programmer device, or going to many local auto parts stores, like AutoZone, which will read the codes for free usually. To read the codes from a dealership will usually cost at least $45, for the same 'service' of getting the codes.)
Good luck, and let us know how it works out!
The fact of filter oil getting on it what caused your problem. They can be cleaned, but must be cleaned carefully. Also, all the oil MUST be removed (you probably need to replace the filter, too, since it got oiled), so that it won't contaminate a new MAF, if you end up getting one.
The maf has to be cleaned or replaced, and the source of oil removed, and any oil in the intake air pipe removed (between the MAF and filter).
Only certain filters take oil, and even those have specific procedures for getting the oil on right.
(As far as 'codes', when your check engine light comes on, you can read the daignostic codes, using a hand-held programmer device, or going to many local auto parts stores, like AutoZone, which will read the codes for free usually. To read the codes from a dealership will usually cost at least $45, for the same 'service' of getting the codes.)
Good luck, and let us know how it works out!
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