I have an issue with my new spec 2 and aluminium flywheel install.
After 2 days the car developed a noise on cold starts. Sort of a tingy-semi grinding noise.
Clutch in, noise, clutch out , noise, clutch half way, noise. The only change when working the clutch in and out is the pitch of the noise changes.
We thought it was the starter catching on the new flywheel, but push started it today and still had the noise.
Once the car warms up, 1 or 2 minutes the noise goes away.
Clutch grabs fine, easy to shift, no issues with rattles or anything.
The colder the car is IE mornng the worse it gets.

We are at our wits end.

Any Ideas

 

Did you loctite all the bolts during the install?

 

Does the sound go away if you rev the motor up slightly? I had a similar noise with my SPEC2 (and slave cylinder) and Fidanza aluminum flywheel on my 4.0L coupe, but I kept the noise at bay by raising the idle speeds to just over 900 RPMs. I had done that anyway because of the PHP alternator pulley to keep the system charging, but once I reset the car to stock prior to selling it, I noticed the clutch noise. I ended up buying a tuner to raise the idle speeds before selling it. It sounded bad otherwise, and would have hampered the sale of the car had I not done that.

 

Did ya grease your pilot bushing?
Sounds like it was not properly aligned before tightening the bolts.

 

Used loctite on the bolts.
It makes the noise under all RPM, the only thing that makes the noise go away is when the car is warmed up. The colder the car is in the morning to longer the noise lasts.

Today I did a clutch bleed with a mityvac following the ford instructions. No help.

Spec seems to think that it is air in the line, tomorrow I will try bleeding the lines more.

The one thing I didnt do is replace the pilot bearing. Now everything is ticakty boo when the car is warm so if it was a bad pilot wouldnt it act up all the time?

 

It's the TOB. That's the only reason I could see that it would occur regardless of the engagement of the clutch. If it were only when the clutch is engaged, then I would say clutch chatter, but it sounds like a TOB issue.

 

I think I got it.

I bled the clutch a bunch of times, then noticed that the tech that put everything back together cranked the torque limiters up all the way so the motor and trans were crooked and not sitting level.

Noise is still there (very faint) but I need to bleed it one more time and I think it will be gone. I think that with the motor crooked that if there was air in the line it may not have let the air escape properly. I also left the vac on the resevoir lifted the car and bashed on the bell housing and hydraulic line. That seemed to get the air bubbles moving.

The dude at Spec was very helpfull.

 

Cool! Glad to here you've got some progress on this.

I'm doing mine in a week or two. Hoping it goes well.

 

It only lasts a few seconds with the clutch engaged now. I found that bleeding it hot got me further along. Its stupid that there is no bleed screw on the slave but whatcha gonna do. I'll just keep at it and im sure it will be fixed.

Torch, when you do yours, make sure you measure the distance from the fingers on the pressure plate to the old flywheel. You may have to shim something to get the distance correct. We had to shim the starter on mine.

 

I'm confused....What does shimming the starter have to do with the distance between the pressure plate and flywheel?

If you mean you had to shim the starter to get proper gear engagement, I'd say Spec's flywheel was off.