strut tower braces etc...
#1
strut tower braces etc...
My car (99GT hardtop) feels like its getting 'loose' when i drive it. Its just got a sloppy feeling and has some rattles and other noises. I was looking into front strut tower braces, and then everything else. I definitely want to get the front strut tower brace, but I'm also thinking about the rear tower brace too. As I read more into it i came across all kinds of things (control arms, k members, sway bars, panhard bars etc.). How much of this stuff is necessary? what is overkill? Which brands are good, who shold I stay away from? My car is a daily driver, I dont take it to the track to race or anything. I do want it to handle well though. I want a nice tight feeling when driving and cornering, not the sloppy feeling I have now. Also, how low can I lower it before I need cc plates, bumpsteer kits ect.? I dont have tons of money to spend, but I do want the car to handle better.
thanks
thanks
#2
RE: strut tower braces etc...
I wonder if we can get some good enough info on this for a sticky. I'd like to know all that stuff about suspension too. I know some of the stuff has already been discussed on here. Like I've read that CC plates are needed if you're lowering more that 1.5" and then I've read that they are needed if you're going lower than 2". I know there is a post on basic install but an extensive post on what it all means would be much appreciated.
Justin
Justin
#3
RE: strut tower braces etc...
Sadly, my Mom's 03 GT vert seems more solid than my 02 coupe... Now, the vert had full length subs frame connectors, a strut tower brace (I think) and a tubular k-member brace among other braces all from the factory.
I want to get full length subs to improve my ride... weld in...
I want to get full length subs to improve my ride... weld in...
#5
RE: strut tower braces etc...
I have a 2000 GT convertible and before I installed the steeda front strut tower brace the front end would rattle and it felt loose. After the install i noticed a much better feel. You can feel it during cornering as well as when you hit a bump.
The car came from the dealer with subframe connectors and a lower k-member brace.
The car came from the dealer with subframe connectors and a lower k-member brace.
#6
RE: strut tower braces etc...
I think a good place to start to tighten up your car and prevent some of the squeks and things would be to get a sset of Full Lenght sub-frame connectors welded in. This will help tie the front of the car to the rear and make it feel a lot better. As far as upper and lower control arms go they will also help with your handeling. another thing to look into is replaceing the bushing in the front of your car (espically if it has lots of miles) with some polyurthine bushings. Unless you are going to be doing some auto-x or going to the strip a lot I would not get the K member for 2 reasons; 1- you also have to buy front A arms and a coil over kit; 2- the price of it all. A panhard bar will defently help along with a strut tower brace (both of which I will be getting at some point in time). As far as lowering your car and when you need caster/camber plates, lots of answers on that as far as how low before you need them. I got them when I lowered my car, did I need them maybe and maybe not but I did not want to have to have them and not then have to get them installed after all of my other suspension stuff was already on, I did it all at one time. Here is the list of thing that I did; Tokio blue shocks/struts, Eibach Pro springs (bought used and the front were cut a little to give the car a rake from back to front), upper/lower control arms, caster/camber plates, offset rack bushings (the aluminum ones) and last thing was poly bushings on my front sway bar.
#7
RE: strut tower braces etc...
thanks guys...im gonna start with the front and rear strut tower braces (mm strut tower up front and steeda in the rear). Im still looking at the mm panhard bar, but i was reading it may not clear all aftermarket exhausts. anyone know more about this?
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