Heads and Cams
#11
RE: Heads and Cams
ORIGINAL: Dragon02GT
They mean changing the gear ratio in the rear end, i.e. 3.73 or 4.10 from the stock 3.27. The stage 2 cam has a powerband that kicks in higher than the stage 1 cam becasue of the longer duration that the valves are open for. The higher gear ratio in the rear end will help you get up into the powerband of the stage 2 cams much quicker than the stock gears, thus allowing you to take better advantage of the stage 2 cams.
ORIGINAL: 03sonicgt
What do you guys mean by changing the gear when dealing with heads and cams??
What do you guys mean by changing the gear when dealing with heads and cams??
#12
RE: Heads and Cams
ORIGINAL: xkon
would stage 2 cams be out of my RPM range since i dont have a forged bottom end?
ORIGINAL: BCisme
you'll need a gear and spring upgrade for stage II's. since you have valvetrain damage already, i'd do springs even with a stage I. that's not a bad price for a head and cam swap. i'd have them ported and throw in some stage II cams and springs of you can afford gears and a re tune. if the gears are not an option, stay with stage I's.
you'll need a gear and spring upgrade for stage II's. since you have valvetrain damage already, i'd do springs even with a stage I. that's not a bad price for a head and cam swap. i'd have them ported and throw in some stage II cams and springs of you can afford gears and a re tune. if the gears are not an option, stay with stage I's.
no, they are fine for stock operating range, the stage II's duration is just a bit too aggresive for the stock springs. if you wanted to rev higher than 6200, like say 7K, you'd be better off with a hotter cam anyways. most likely a custom grind.
ORIGINAL: 03sonicgt
What do you guys mean by changing the gear when dealing with heads and cams??
What do you guys mean by changing the gear when dealing with heads and cams??
basically, if you try to drive down the street in 4th gear @ 30 mph turning 1600 rpms, the car will buck and jerk like crazy. with my comp 270's, i could get away with turning maybe 2K while cruising in gear. with my 278's it's tricky to cruise below 2200. 4.10's are best for my cam with my T45, 3.73's barely do the job.if i were you i'd get 4.10's since your an auto if you want a stage II cam.
#13
RE: Heads and Cams
i just talked to scott from VT and he recommended stage 2 heads and cams and replace the comp springs with crower. He also said that the peak power would be under 6000 and would be fine with the stock gears. If thats all true i think i am going to go that route. What all would i need to make this work, obviously the heads and cams, two head gaskets, and stud bolts? Do you think going with crower springs are necessary?
#15
RE: Heads and Cams
ORIGINAL: xkon
i just talked to scott from VT and he recommended stage 2 heads and cams and replace the comp springs with crower. He also said that the peak power would be under 6000 and would be fine with the stock gears. If thats all true i think i am going to go that route. What all would i need to make this work, obviously the heads and cams, two head gaskets, and stud bolts? Do you think going with crower springs are necessary?
i just talked to scott from VT and he recommended stage 2 heads and cams and replace the comp springs with crower. He also said that the peak power would be under 6000 and would be fine with the stock gears. If thats all true i think i am going to go that route. What all would i need to make this work, obviously the heads and cams, two head gaskets, and stud bolts? Do you think going with crower springs are necessary?
and about the gears, especially being an auto, if you go stage II cams you'll wish you had those gears, trust me.
#16
RE: Heads and Cams
ORIGINAL: BCisme
yea get the springs. you need them with a stage II cams. you dont want the stock ones to fail on you, trust me.
and about the gears, especially being an auto, if you go stage II cams you'll wish you had those gears, trust me.
ORIGINAL: xkon
i just talked to scott from VT and he recommended stage 2 heads and cams and replace the comp springs with crower. He also said that the peak power would be under 6000 and would be fine with the stock gears. If thats all true i think i am going to go that route. What all would i need to make this work, obviously the heads and cams, two head gaskets, and stud bolts? Do you think going with crower springs are necessary?
i just talked to scott from VT and he recommended stage 2 heads and cams and replace the comp springs with crower. He also said that the peak power would be under 6000 and would be fine with the stock gears. If thats all true i think i am going to go that route. What all would i need to make this work, obviously the heads and cams, two head gaskets, and stud bolts? Do you think going with crower springs are necessary?
and about the gears, especially being an auto, if you go stage II cams you'll wish you had those gears, trust me.
Thats what it says it comes with, so are the springs they have not as good as the crowers? also, would i have to buy rockers and lifters? As for the gears, im gonna go with 4.10s eventually, just need to get some more money. Thanks for your help btw, its much appreciated
#17
RE: Heads and Cams
you dont need new lifters or cam followers. the crower spring VT is reccomending to you is probably stiffer than those com springs. i had to ditch the comp springs when i upgraded my cam from comp 270's to 278's. i urge you to get those gears with little or no delay between them and your headswap. if you are having a shop do the work, talk them into giving you a good deal on labor for the gears, since they are making some good labor from the swap.
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