short block
07-11-2006, 02:23 AM
#33
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 2,489
RE: short block
ORIGINAL: rjgstang
damn dude did they ever find it or the person responsible?
damn dude did they ever find it or the person responsible?
07-11-2006, 06:25 AM
#34
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location:
Posts: 4,089
RE: short block
I generally run the engine for about 60 minutes with the first lube to get everything seated, check for leaks, and top off the coolant. Then dump the oil and change the filter. I would fill back up with basic dino oil.
Change the first dino at 500 miles, the second at 1500, and the third at 2500 going to a good synthetic.
While you're building your engine, keep provisions to install a by-pass oil filter (it's good to have one anyway). The engine bay on the Stang is tight, so finding a mounting spot can be difficult for a relocation kit that has both full flow and by-pass. I generally tap the oil pressure port to run my by-pass filters.
Oh, and use Amsoil for the long haul (written warranties are hard to beat).
Change the first dino at 500 miles, the second at 1500, and the third at 2500 going to a good synthetic.
While you're building your engine, keep provisions to install a by-pass oil filter (it's good to have one anyway). The engine bay on the Stang is tight, so finding a mounting spot can be difficult for a relocation kit that has both full flow and by-pass. I generally tap the oil pressure port to run my by-pass filters.
Oh, and use Amsoil for the long haul (written warranties are hard to beat).
07-11-2006, 12:30 PM
#35
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location:
Posts: 5,128
RE: short block
ORIGINAL: Colorado_Mustang
I generally run the engine for about 60 minutes with the first lube to get everything seated, check for leaks, and top off the coolant. Then dump the oil and change the filter. I would fill back up with basic dino oil.
Change the first dino at 500 miles, the second at 1500, and the third at 2500 going to a good synthetic.
While you're building your engine, keep provisions to install a by-pass oil filter (it's good to have one anyway). The engine bay on the Stang is tight, so finding a mounting spot can be difficult for a relocation kit that has both full flow and by-pass. I generally tap the oil pressure port to run my by-pass filters.
Oh, and use Amsoil for the long haul (written warranties are hard to beat).
I generally run the engine for about 60 minutes with the first lube to get everything seated, check for leaks, and top off the coolant. Then dump the oil and change the filter. I would fill back up with basic dino oil.
Change the first dino at 500 miles, the second at 1500, and the third at 2500 going to a good synthetic.
While you're building your engine, keep provisions to install a by-pass oil filter (it's good to have one anyway). The engine bay on the Stang is tight, so finding a mounting spot can be difficult for a relocation kit that has both full flow and by-pass. I generally tap the oil pressure port to run my by-pass filters.
Oh, and use Amsoil for the long haul (written warranties are hard to beat).
07-11-2006, 12:33 PM
#36
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location:
Posts: 4,089
RE: short block
No. A by-pass filter takes a part of the oil and runs it through a very fine filter (generally less than 1 micron, compared to 15-20 microns for a full-flow filter). Basically, it does a better job of filter contaminants out of your oil, giving your engine a longer life.
An argument against by-pass filters is that a 1 micron particle is too small to cause problems. But, I prefer not to take those chances...
An argument against by-pass filters is that a 1 micron particle is too small to cause problems. But, I prefer not to take those chances...
07-11-2006, 12:37 PM
#37
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location:
Posts: 5,128
RE: short block
so it's like running two filters at once?
I will have to consider doing that. Right now I'm in the planning stage, but once I get my beater car and pay off the stang (not much left on it) I can start buying parts and start the removal of the old engine process as well
EDIT: Thanks for the tips! [sm=smiley20.gif]
I will have to consider doing that. Right now I'm in the planning stage, but once I get my beater car and pay off the stang (not much left on it) I can start buying parts and start the removal of the old engine process as well
EDIT: Thanks for the tips! [sm=smiley20.gif]
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