jacrockett

Having big power in any car is a serious responsibility.

In a vert, that mandates a roll bar. My roll bar is going in right now.

I've had two close calls. First was on a freeway on-ramp, when I jumped on it, and stayed on it. I got sideways at 50 mph with another car right beside me. I recovered just fine. Another time, I turned a corner on surface streets, gassed it hard and almost hit the center divider. Simply put, I've had no close calls when I wasn't screwing around. In "normal" driving, I've never even spun the tires.

Scjar

By roll bar I'm guessing your talking about the style bar type thing and not a full roll cage.[/align][/align]What about close calls as in flipping? Thats the main thing I would be worried about, unless you mean those two as in could have flipped.[/align] [/align][/align]Also how much HP are you pushing?[/align]

LetThePoniesRunFree

I'm kind of in the same boat as you. I want to keep my Car a DD, but I love the hp potential that f/i creates. I've done a hell of a lot of research and I've decided to go with the KB. Mostly for personal reasons but the simplicity of a bolt on and go f/i package with expandability sold me on the KB. Hell yah it's expensive. If I wanted just a 350hp car and that was it, I'de go with a non-ic centrifugal and save a ton of dough. But seriously, if you ask any of the centri guys who are running any kind of hp/trq numbers, they have plenty of $$$ invested in them as well. But hell man, what do I know. I still have a "n/a slow GT". I stole that quote.

jacrockett

I'm NOT talking about the Steeda "Light" bar. That bar is non-structural, and has no safety value at all. I'm talking about a NHRA/SCCA-legal, structural "Roll bar". Mine is a 4-point bar from Autopower, with bolt-in diagonal and harness bars. You can also have a roll bar custom built, those tend to cost around $2k.
http://www.autopowerindustries.com/Roll_Bars.htm


I've hadZERO close calls where I was worried about flipping.

All the racing circuits require verts to have roll bars. However, at street-legal power levels it is very rare to flip. Most road race courses have slide areas on the curves following a long straight. Autocross you never get over 60mph. Drag racing, you're still under 120mph. Rally-Cross (off pavement) it is easy to flip, but I have no plan to race that.

The biggest danger for flipping is if you have a tire blow out at high-speed on a road with a soft shoulder (which has nothing to do with forced induction). Take care of your tires, don't drive like an idiot, and you'll be just fine.

jacrockett

I have a 1.7L Intercooled KB for sale for $3k (and I'm in So Cal)

1.7L Blower/manifold assembly (Satin Finish), less than 5k miles
Intercooler Heat Exchanger, pump, reservoir, and hoses
6-rib blower pulleys for 10# and 14# boost
8-rib blower Pulleys for 8# and 10# boost
8-rib accessory/crank pulley upgrade kit
7.5� 8-rib crank overdrive adapter (increases boost additional 2#)
Steel Idler pulleys
42# Fuel Injectors
Billet Fuel Rails

Sxynerd

I got hammered about this a few weeks ago when I said I want to build a home tubro system from import turos! If you can fab then you can create... If you can weld then pass it to someone who can fab... Turbos a expensive with pre-fab'd systems unless (here's the word again ) you can fab. For a DD I have yet again changed my mind and decided to go with a ProCharger... It's violent and sensitive; best of both worlds... THe best system IMO would be twins, a big bore, custom grind, and P&P to the max heads.... anyone got 30 grand lying around, I could borrow?

jacrockett

I'd let you pick a few leaves from my money tree (second mortgage on home), but I've already picked it bare. I know it not physcally responsible to put car mods on a mortgage, but I was already too deep into the project, and I'm not going to let this car beat me.... mid-life crisis thing.

That is one of the main reason I post in this forum... to helps other learn from my mistakes.