Can I bleed my own brakes?
#11
RE: Can I bleed my own brakes?
WoW! Thanks rmodel. That helps alot!
I got one last question, I know it sounds stupid, but I bled my dad's Shelby Cobra brakes once, and since hedoes NOT have power brakes, the car was off, but since I DO, do I bleed with the car running in neutral for vaccuum assistance? Or just do it with the car off manually?
Thanks.
I got one last question, I know it sounds stupid, but I bled my dad's Shelby Cobra brakes once, and since hedoes NOT have power brakes, the car was off, but since I DO, do I bleed with the car running in neutral for vaccuum assistance? Or just do it with the car off manually?
Thanks.
#12
RE: Can I bleed my own brakes?
Hey, it would probably be a smart move to take your rotors in to get them turned as well, if ur pads are worn way down, then your rotors probably wore with them, if they need turning and you don't do it, your new pads will be screwed.
#13
RE: Can I bleed my own brakes?
ORIGINAL: BullittJim
Hey, it would probably be a smart move to take your rotors in to get them turned as well, if ur pads are worn way down, then your rotors probably wore with them, if they need turning and you don't do it, your new pads will be screwed.
Hey, it would probably be a smart move to take your rotors in to get them turned as well, if ur pads are worn way down, then your rotors probably wore with them, if they need turning and you don't do it, your new pads will be screwed.
Perform four-repeated light to medium stops, from 65 to 10 mph, to bring the rotors to temperature. Perform two heavy stops, back to back, at a point just pending wheel lock, from 65 mph to about 5 mph. Drive for five to ten minutes to create cooling airflow, without using the brakes if at all possible. Perform three light stops in succession. Perform eight heavy stops, back to back, at a point just pending wheel lock, from 65 mph
to about 5 mph. Drive for ten minutes to create cooling airflow, without using the brakes if at all possible. Metallic brake pads need high temperatures to keep the pad “Beddedâ€. If you drive the car for a period of time without using the brakes extensively, you may need to “Bed†the pads again. This is not a problem. Simply repeat the procedure. When switching from Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads to semi-metallic brake pads (something we do not recommend), you will need to wear through the layer of carbon that the PFC pads have deposited in the rotor surface. The new pads won’t grip
well at all, until this layer of carbon is removed. Racers should “Bed†a few sets of pads at a time. In the event you need to change brake pads during a race, you MUST use a set of “Bedded†pads. Racing on “non-bedded†pads leads to a type of “fade†caused by the binding agents coming out of the pad too quickly. This is called “green fadeâ€. These binders may create a liquid (actually a gas) layer between your pads and rotors. Liquids have a very poor coefficient of friction. This condition is the reason for reverse slotting or cross-drilling rotors, as it allows a pathway for the gasses to escape.
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