One more Dyno question please
#1
One more Dyno question please
I am more of a jeep guy so this is all new to me, here goes.
My engine builder and the guy who has my car are both telling me two different things. So I want to know what you guys think.
To start this is my motor.
MMR 4.6 Street Mod 900 (up to 900HP)
*Brand New Cast Iron 2004 Cobra Block, torque plate bored and honed
*New 4340 Forged 3.543 stroke Cobra Crankshaft w/micro polished journals at no extra charge
*New 4340 5.933 Manley H-beam Rods w/ARP rod bolts ( These US made rods are shotpeened, magnafluxed and weight matched to bring you the finest H-beam rod available for your 4.6
*New Forged Manley pistons 3.552 Bore size (High or low compression)
*Speed Pro file fit rings (precision file fit to your application, nitrous, blower, turbo or N/A)
*Speed Pro/Federal Mogul tri-metal Rod and Main bearings
*Complete Pro Assembly and Balancing for the smoothest, highest revving shortblock available.
Shortblock Options:
Coated Pistons (ceramic dome/teflon skirt) $399.99
Brand New Current production Aluminum Block +$699.99 for NA or $729 S/C Blocks
ARP 2000 Rod Bolt Upgrade (recommended for 900+HP) $99.99
ARP Mainstuds (recommended for 600+HP) +169.99
MMR Street/Racing Oil Pump (highly recommended) + $199.99
ARP Headstuds and MMR/Felpro Extreme Duty Headgaskets + $369.99
MMR windage tray and hardware kit (+15HP) + 129.99
*Due to the custom nature of MMR shortblocks ALL customers paying with a credit card
will be billed when the order is placed (prior to engine assembly and shipping),
All MMR shortblocks are non-refundable regardless if the item has shipped or not.
400900
$2799
I have sent my heads and timeing stuff to mmr. They are going to do a stage 2 port and polish. Install new valves and 5 angle valve job.
The car is tubro charged. O.K. here is the rub.
The turner says I should let him break in the motor on the dyno. And if it does not make the same power as the stock motor I should have him yank it and send it back.
The builder {mmr} says the worst thing I could do is let them break it in on the dyno. I should run the car for 500 miles with the tune that is already in it. Keep it out of boost. Then change the oil. Then dyno it. mmr " the hardest thing you can do to a motor is dyno it"
What do you guys think?
Thanks in advance
Tim
My engine builder and the guy who has my car are both telling me two different things. So I want to know what you guys think.
To start this is my motor.
MMR 4.6 Street Mod 900 (up to 900HP)
*Brand New Cast Iron 2004 Cobra Block, torque plate bored and honed
*New 4340 Forged 3.543 stroke Cobra Crankshaft w/micro polished journals at no extra charge
*New 4340 5.933 Manley H-beam Rods w/ARP rod bolts ( These US made rods are shotpeened, magnafluxed and weight matched to bring you the finest H-beam rod available for your 4.6
*New Forged Manley pistons 3.552 Bore size (High or low compression)
*Speed Pro file fit rings (precision file fit to your application, nitrous, blower, turbo or N/A)
*Speed Pro/Federal Mogul tri-metal Rod and Main bearings
*Complete Pro Assembly and Balancing for the smoothest, highest revving shortblock available.
Shortblock Options:
Coated Pistons (ceramic dome/teflon skirt) $399.99
Brand New Current production Aluminum Block +$699.99 for NA or $729 S/C Blocks
ARP 2000 Rod Bolt Upgrade (recommended for 900+HP) $99.99
ARP Mainstuds (recommended for 600+HP) +169.99
MMR Street/Racing Oil Pump (highly recommended) + $199.99
ARP Headstuds and MMR/Felpro Extreme Duty Headgaskets + $369.99
MMR windage tray and hardware kit (+15HP) + 129.99
*Due to the custom nature of MMR shortblocks ALL customers paying with a credit card
will be billed when the order is placed (prior to engine assembly and shipping),
All MMR shortblocks are non-refundable regardless if the item has shipped or not.
400900
$2799
I have sent my heads and timeing stuff to mmr. They are going to do a stage 2 port and polish. Install new valves and 5 angle valve job.
The car is tubro charged. O.K. here is the rub.
The turner says I should let him break in the motor on the dyno. And if it does not make the same power as the stock motor I should have him yank it and send it back.
The builder {mmr} says the worst thing I could do is let them break it in on the dyno. I should run the car for 500 miles with the tune that is already in it. Keep it out of boost. Then change the oil. Then dyno it. mmr " the hardest thing you can do to a motor is dyno it"
What do you guys think?
Thanks in advance
Tim
#4
RE: One more Dyno question please
Never ever break it in hard.
Do what the manufacturer says.
A wideband is a 02 sensor/display that tells you the a/f ratio of the car. You don't really need one if you stay out of the boost, as the dyno will have one.
Do what the manufacturer says.
A wideband is a 02 sensor/display that tells you the a/f ratio of the car. You don't really need one if you stay out of the boost, as the dyno will have one.
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