HOW-To: Baer 13inch rear brake upgrade.
06-20-2008, 01:56 AM
#21
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: SF Bay.
Posts: 3,035
RE: HOW-To: Baer 13inch rear brake upgrade.
The rear brakes only do 10% of your braking, there will be no benefit to upgrading the rear brakes to larger rotors with the same calipers other than decreased rotor cooling times. If you upgrade the caliper in the rear, there will also be very little benefit until you install a brake proportioning valve and change the bias.
Rear cobra brakes are the same as gt brakes, the front cobra brakes are the same as mach1 and bullitts.
Baer might recommend it, but you still will find very little to no actual drivers with them as they have not proven themselves to be worth the extra money. If I made rotors (i.e brembo or baer) I'd recommend these for everyone, and leave it in small print that these shouldnt be race driven. (same price to them as a plain rotor, all they do is drill a few holes and can charge double)
The stock gt brakes are sufficient for autocross for the average person (non competition) so upgrading to the cobra rears are fine on the track.
Front brakes should be the first thing you upgrade due to the stock gt calipers insufficient clamping force, and the soft front spring rate of the gt (nose dive), your gonna wanna swap in a bigger caliper (cheapest would be the mach1 upgrade kit) if your gonna go tracking as the additional stopping power will help with confidence and overall time.
I have yet to go with my new setup but I am dying to try out thunderhill with the IRS, last time I went was with mach1 front calipers, hps pads, 295 toyo t1r's, sfc's, mm coilovers, and mm xd lca's. I have not yet noticed any increase in stopping ability from swapping out the SRA (rear gt brakes) with an IRS (cobra rear brakes).
Rear cobra brakes are the same as gt brakes, the front cobra brakes are the same as mach1 and bullitts.
Baer might recommend it, but you still will find very little to no actual drivers with them as they have not proven themselves to be worth the extra money. If I made rotors (i.e brembo or baer) I'd recommend these for everyone, and leave it in small print that these shouldnt be race driven. (same price to them as a plain rotor, all they do is drill a few holes and can charge double)
The stock gt brakes are sufficient for autocross for the average person (non competition) so upgrading to the cobra rears are fine on the track.
Front brakes should be the first thing you upgrade due to the stock gt calipers insufficient clamping force, and the soft front spring rate of the gt (nose dive), your gonna wanna swap in a bigger caliper (cheapest would be the mach1 upgrade kit) if your gonna go tracking as the additional stopping power will help with confidence and overall time.
I have yet to go with my new setup but I am dying to try out thunderhill with the IRS, last time I went was with mach1 front calipers, hps pads, 295 toyo t1r's, sfc's, mm coilovers, and mm xd lca's. I have not yet noticed any increase in stopping ability from swapping out the SRA (rear gt brakes) with an IRS (cobra rear brakes).
06-20-2008, 12:44 PM
#22
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: WA
Posts: 105
RE: HOW-To: Baer 13inch rear brake upgrade.
Thanks for the info Aeron... when I go to upgrade my brakes I think im just going to go with the Mach 1 calipers in the front and larger rotors. I dont do any tracking in my car, I just want some extra braking power for daily driving.
06-20-2008, 10:14 PM
#23
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: SF Bay.
Posts: 3,035
RE: HOW-To: Baer 13inch rear brake upgrade.
ORIGINAL: Blackened04
Thanks for the info Aeron... when I go to upgrade my brakes I think im just going to go with the Mach 1 calipers in the front and larger rotors. I dont do any tracking in my car, I just want some extra braking power for daily driving.
Thanks for the info Aeron... when I go to upgrade my brakes I think im just going to go with the Mach 1 calipers in the front and larger rotors. I dont do any tracking in my car, I just want some extra braking power for daily driving.
06-21-2008, 03:49 AM
#24
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Whitehall, Michigan
Posts: 2,638
RE: HOW-To: Baer 13inch rear brake upgrade.
Funny to see Aereon in a brake thread saying that slotted and drilled rotors are the WORST THINGS EVER. That's the exact reason I have him blocked currently. A slotted and drilled rotor must have murdered both of his parents in the middle of the night or something, because he's holding quite a grudge.
For street cars, the choice should be for purely appearance-based reasons. Pad life is FINE with rotors of this sort, I'm going on 40k miles on the pads that came with my calipers since the swap, it's seen auto-cross time, drag strip time, and generally lots of braking abuse and the pads still have plenty of life! My rotors STILL have not exploded into a million pieces, and I doubt they are going to. Seriously, let Aereon blow off steam about brakes and go back to ignoring him like any sensible person should.
I'm glad to see someone bought this kit and did a little write-up on it. I wish I had found and purchased this kit instead of the cobra rear brakes. It's cheaper, and puts a larger (size-matching) rotor on the back, which is what I wanted! Another note to add, if you have a cobra or already have cobra brakes on the rear, this kit WILL NOT FIT. The caliper mounting bracket is spaced about an inch farther out on the cobras (which is why you have to remove the axleshafts to do the cobra swap for the rear - caliper mounting brackets have to be changed). This would put the caliper out too far for a 13" rotor, you would need more along the lines of a 14-14.5" rotor, which is way too big
This rear swap should be done for appearance only, upgrading the rear brakes will not drastically improve your braking performance - most of your stopping power is in the front.
For street cars, the choice should be for purely appearance-based reasons. Pad life is FINE with rotors of this sort, I'm going on 40k miles on the pads that came with my calipers since the swap, it's seen auto-cross time, drag strip time, and generally lots of braking abuse and the pads still have plenty of life! My rotors STILL have not exploded into a million pieces, and I doubt they are going to. Seriously, let Aereon blow off steam about brakes and go back to ignoring him like any sensible person should.
I'm glad to see someone bought this kit and did a little write-up on it. I wish I had found and purchased this kit instead of the cobra rear brakes. It's cheaper, and puts a larger (size-matching) rotor on the back, which is what I wanted! Another note to add, if you have a cobra or already have cobra brakes on the rear, this kit WILL NOT FIT. The caliper mounting bracket is spaced about an inch farther out on the cobras (which is why you have to remove the axleshafts to do the cobra swap for the rear - caliper mounting brackets have to be changed). This would put the caliper out too far for a 13" rotor, you would need more along the lines of a 14-14.5" rotor, which is way too big
This rear swap should be done for appearance only, upgrading the rear brakes will not drastically improve your braking performance - most of your stopping power is in the front.
06-21-2008, 06:39 AM
#25
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: SF Bay.
Posts: 3,035
RE: HOW-To: Baer 13inch rear brake upgrade.
ORIGINAL: ShadowDrake
Funny to see Aereon in a brake thread saying that slotted and drilled rotors are the WORST THINGS EVER. That's the exact reason I have him blocked currently. A slotted and drilled rotor must have murdered both of his parents in the middle of the night or something, because he's holding quite a grudge.
For street cars, the choice should be for purely appearance-based reasons. Pad life is FINE with rotors of this sort, I'm going on 40k miles on the pads that came with my calipers since the swap, it's seen auto-cross time, drag strip time, and generally lots of braking abuse and the pads still have plenty of life! My rotors STILL have not exploded into a million pieces, and I doubt they are going to. Seriously, let Aereon blow off steam about brakes and go back to ignoring him like any sensible person should.
I'm glad to see someone bought this kit and did a little write-up on it. I wish I had found and purchased this kit instead of the cobra rear brakes. It's cheaper, and puts a larger (size-matching) rotor on the back, which is what I wanted! Another note to add, if you have a cobra or already have cobra brakes on the rear, this kit WILL NOT FIT. The caliper mounting bracket is spaced about an inch farther out on the cobras (which is why you have to remove the axleshafts to do the cobra swap for the rear - caliper mounting brackets have to be changed). This would put the caliper out too far for a 13" rotor, you would need more along the lines of a 14-14.5" rotor, which is way too big
This rear swap should be done for appearance only, upgrading the rear brakes will not drastically improve your braking performance - most of your stopping power is in the front.
Funny to see Aereon in a brake thread saying that slotted and drilled rotors are the WORST THINGS EVER. That's the exact reason I have him blocked currently. A slotted and drilled rotor must have murdered both of his parents in the middle of the night or something, because he's holding quite a grudge.
For street cars, the choice should be for purely appearance-based reasons. Pad life is FINE with rotors of this sort, I'm going on 40k miles on the pads that came with my calipers since the swap, it's seen auto-cross time, drag strip time, and generally lots of braking abuse and the pads still have plenty of life! My rotors STILL have not exploded into a million pieces, and I doubt they are going to. Seriously, let Aereon blow off steam about brakes and go back to ignoring him like any sensible person should.
I'm glad to see someone bought this kit and did a little write-up on it. I wish I had found and purchased this kit instead of the cobra rear brakes. It's cheaper, and puts a larger (size-matching) rotor on the back, which is what I wanted! Another note to add, if you have a cobra or already have cobra brakes on the rear, this kit WILL NOT FIT. The caliper mounting bracket is spaced about an inch farther out on the cobras (which is why you have to remove the axleshafts to do the cobra swap for the rear - caliper mounting brackets have to be changed). This would put the caliper out too far for a 13" rotor, you would need more along the lines of a 14-14.5" rotor, which is way too big
This rear swap should be done for appearance only, upgrading the rear brakes will not drastically improve your braking performance - most of your stopping power is in the front.
I just find it funny how you think you can defy science and for some magical reason your car works better with crossdrilled/slotted rotors where dedicated track cars do not. Meh, I guess I'll just leave these technical discussions to those with no scientific proof to backup their claims. Go ahead and block corner-carvers as well since they actually have science/physics to back up claims.
It's poster's like ShadowDrake that cause alot of other people that actually have worthwhile tech to leave MF. (not including myself since I'm off my rockers and my parents died of some horrible crash due to cross drilled rotors somehow becoming explosive and imploding on itself in a 5 mph turn.)
http://www.google.com/search?q=drilled+rotors+vs+plain just a simple search shows there are a bunch of idiots out there, guess we should all get together and form a blank rotor cult because its cheaper and cross drilled rotors blow up according to our crazy beliefs..
05-28-2009, 11:31 AM
#26
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Maryland
Posts: 535
UPDATE:
Hello All,
I should have done this a long time ago, but have been a little too busy to post it.
Product review: "DO NOT BUY THE BAER 13" PLUS ONE REAR UPGRADE for 1995- 2004 MUSTANGS"
Reason: Ever since I have put the brakes on, I get ticking noises that come from the rear Brakes. It sounds like those stupid plastic beads that kids put on their bicycle's rims and when they slow down, they make a very stupid and annoying ticking sound.
What is the cause: When Baer made the rotors, they failed to put vents straight through the center of the rotors. (See the front of a stock rotor). Every time the pad makes contact with one of the little drilled holes, gasses build, and release making a popping noise.
I called Baer and they said they have never heard of the problem. I then called Brother's Performance and they said they get complaints all the time about them.
I wish I would have know before I purchased the upgrade kit from them.
Solution: Use Steeda's 13" upgrade rear rotor, it just has slots. No holes.
Hello All,
I should have done this a long time ago, but have been a little too busy to post it.
Product review: "DO NOT BUY THE BAER 13" PLUS ONE REAR UPGRADE for 1995- 2004 MUSTANGS"
Reason: Ever since I have put the brakes on, I get ticking noises that come from the rear Brakes. It sounds like those stupid plastic beads that kids put on their bicycle's rims and when they slow down, they make a very stupid and annoying ticking sound.
What is the cause: When Baer made the rotors, they failed to put vents straight through the center of the rotors. (See the front of a stock rotor). Every time the pad makes contact with one of the little drilled holes, gasses build, and release making a popping noise.
I called Baer and they said they have never heard of the problem. I then called Brother's Performance and they said they get complaints all the time about them.
I wish I would have know before I purchased the upgrade kit from them.
Solution: Use Steeda's 13" upgrade rear rotor, it just has slots. No holes.
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