4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

changing valvesprings

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Old 07-24-2008, 01:54 PM
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livefast1
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Default changing valvesprings

just wandering if anybody has changed the valvesprings without pulling the front cover. i was wondering if i could pull the valve covers, hold the chain sprocket with screwdrivers, pry the followers out, unbolt the cam and pull it out. then i would just use shop air to keep the valves seated while changing the springs. just would like to know if this has been done before.
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Old 07-24-2008, 02:35 PM
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contentsunderpressur
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Default RE: changing valvesprings

You don't even have to pull the cams. Ford makes a valve spring compressor that has forks on it that grabs onto the cam for leverage. You have to put a small plastic spacer in each spring to ensure that you don't compress the spring too much. Just pop the followers out and hook the air compressor to the cylinder and take them off.
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Old 07-24-2008, 02:38 PM
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StangEatsRice
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Default RE: changing valvesprings

I thought that tool was rare or expensive or something?
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Old 07-24-2008, 02:43 PM
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livefast1
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Default RE: changing valvesprings

yea i was just pokin around on google and saw it its kinda pricey. i will probably just get the 20 dollar lever type compressor from sears and cut and weld some bracketry to it and put some rubber hose on it to protect the cams. good to know i dont have to take the cams off tho thanx.
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Old 07-24-2008, 02:54 PM
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wolverine8490
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Default RE: changing valvesprings

I changed mine when I put PI cams in. It was a beeyach to say the least. The standard compressor is a pain in the @ss to get in there. I didnt have any luck compressing the cyl. with air to keep the valves up either, I just turned the motor so the piston I was working on was at TDC. Good luck with what ever you do. I ended up pulling the motor to change the springs in the end, and it still sucked.
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Old 07-24-2008, 02:59 PM
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amoosenamedhank
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Default RE: changing valvesprings

They also make adapters that thread into the spark plug hole to pressurize the cylinder. That way you don't drop a valve.
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Old 07-24-2008, 03:03 PM
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Jbauer
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Default RE: changing valvesprings

ORIGINAL: wolverine8490

I changed mine when I put PI cams in. It was a beeyach to say the least. The standard compressor is a pain in the @ss to get in there. I didnt have any luck compressing the cyl. with air to keep the valves up either, I just turned the motor so the piston I was working on was at TDC. Good luck with what ever you do. I ended up pulling the motor to change the springs in the end, and it still sucked.
x2, it's a PITA even with the engine OUT of the car
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Old 07-24-2008, 04:40 PM
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wolverine8490
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Default RE: changing valvesprings

Seriously, it took me 3 days, start to finish. I was also trying to avoid pulling the front cover, no luck. You will find out when you try, it you do not use the special tool, there is NO clearence on the PS, and the DS is even worse.

If I did it all over again, and was that determined, I would buy the special ford tool. I feel sorry for anyone trying to do it the cheap route (like myself). It is possible, but d@mn....
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Old 07-24-2008, 06:05 PM
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DeltaV
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Default RE: changing valvesprings

I used the ford tool and have one if you want it. It took me about 3 hours to change the valve springs out (wetook breaks because we kept dropping the followers)! Its tedious but can be done.
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Old 07-24-2008, 06:11 PM
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johnr2001gt
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Default RE: changing valvesprings

you can get the tool from advanced auto for a 100.oo. even with the tool and the cams in place its pure hell. I did cams, springs and cam chain guides in about 9 hours. your best to pull the cams and put a piece of 1" pipe in its place if your using the cam tool that uses the cams for leverage. the cam lobes make it very difficult to use the tool. I made a tool from an old plug to screw in and use air to hold the valves up. the back couple springs on each side are the worst when reinstalling the keepers use a little grease to hold them yo your fingers to put them back in. most important make sure you plug the 3 holes in the bottom of each head or you will be digging in your oil pan for a keeper. it just takes some patience and beer. tool part # otc 7928
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