sweet99

what is the easiest, quickest way to identify the bad lash adjuster if I have one? Before the change I had one that was stuck with the plunger out but cleaned it and with compressed air got it to work but think something is still stuck in it. The valve cover is off and how can I identify it quick? With the lobe on the heel/base the plunger should be all the way out right, so with the lobe on the top, against the rocker wheel the plunger should be in all the way or as far as the lobe pushes it, right? Is that the quickest way to check for the bad one if I have a bad lifter? THX, Mark

defconfire

A loud knocking does not sound like a bad lash adjuster, thats a light ticking noise.

IMO it sounds like you have some piston valve contact. I would take it apart and realign the timing chains.

Did you make several full rotations of the crank shaft before you put everything together.

mustangman281

LOL if it is ptv sex then taking it apart and resetting the chains will do nothing. The engine will be thrashed.

defconfire

Not necessarily. If it only kissed once it may not have done any damage this actually happened to someone I know who did a PI swap.

He turned it on heard it ping/tick and immediately turned it off and took it apart, we pulled the heads to inspect them and it only hit and it did on piston #2 and #3 there was a little tiny line where it hit but that was the only sign. (for some reason only 2 & 3 got hit idk why)

Anyways it got reassembled and it works fine now. passed a compression and a leakdown test.

sweet99

Yes, turned it several times and not first time changing cams but have 6 months until I put it on the road. Had a lifter that was stuck, cleaned and got it free and think it could have gotten stuck again. Question is when the lifters are first removed should the plunger move in a little or be fully tight? I have found both as I am taking it apart again. THX, something to do this winter! Runs great too!

Evenexchange

Don't you have to turn the timing chain 52 times before cranking it over?

I'm also pretty sure the valve should NOT be flush.

defconfire

Sort of, it takes 52 rotations for the timing chain marks to line back up with the mark on both the cam gear and the crank gear.

myslow2002gt

Mark, sorry I haven't checked my emails today. When you remove the lash adjsuters, the plunger should be all the way extended. They will collapse only a very small amount with your fingers. If you have one that can collapse vey easily, then the plunger inside is damaged.

You need to check adjust preload on both banks, as Comp has had issues over the years of grinding cams on an oversized/undersized base circle.

sweet99

YEAH, I sent several emails. It was the SHM's that had the shims. Hitech said drop in and go. However I had a lifter that was the opposite from collapsing, I had trouble getting it to collapse in a vice! Yes, I know about the vice thing. Done it many times though. My question is when a lifter is removed should the plunger move down any at all with just a puch of the finger? Some are fully extended and othewrs can be moved, I'll guess, .020-.030", maybe less but move some.
Best case is lifters got fully pumped and were not cleaned well enough and stayed that way and I valves close hard ands knock. Most likely I suppose the pistons and valves got acquainted. Teksid time?
I'll pull lifters and do a drain and fully clean but if I don't find a stuck plunger I will have to remove the cover. The first tiome around I found one that was stuck but got it unstuck but then again perhaps there was still something in it that clogged it again. Remember the shims that got destroyed. They were on this side.
The new cam having a red stripe on the cam bolt end was strange also. Not a marker but RED PAINT, like red flagged due to a problem? Didn't see it until I removed the bolt to install the cam, phone call to Hitech about that soon. 6 months to get a diagnosis and save to do a build on the Teksid. 2 years to save enough to do the Teksid! LOL HELP!!! Mark