MU71L4710N

been having startup problems for a while, and like my other thread said i popped a code for cam pos sensor. after digging around the most common cause is the alternator going bad causing interference with the sensor. ran up to autozone...and the diode in my alternator is bad.

whats my best route? is the diode something i can replace fairly easily? or should i get a new alternator? if so anyone know where the cheapest place to get a decent quality alternator is?

Brute03

an OEM replacement will run you around 300, but you can have your old one rebuilt with a new regulator for much cheaper

03FstStngKB

Sometimes it's best to go with an oem unit when "these" kind of parts fail. You may have luck w/something from the aftermarket but the quality is not usually what you would find in a new oem unit or new unit from another manufacture. Though you save money short term...the long term effect can be replacing them in shorter intervals. If you go aftermarket try to get something that comes with a lifetime warranty. I am not sure all places offer them for free...but then again I could be wrong?

cliffyk

Beware FUD*...

A local auto electric place can give you an estimate on a rebuilt unit, or the rebuilding of yours. The diodes are usually pressed in to the housing (the housing is the heat sink) and can require some special tools to replace.

Any of the reputable main line FLAPS will have a choice of new and re manufactured generators (see Note below); Advance Auto lists 9, among which are: a rebuilt with a 2 yr warranty for $197, several aftermarket new and rebuilts with lifetime warranties for $200 to $250, and a new MotorCraft with a 1 yr warranty for $391.

You decide...

Note: If you want to really mess them up ask for a generator, after they get done correcting you show 'em this...

The driven device was properly termed an alternator back n the old days when the regulator, and sometimes even the diodes, were external and mounted on the fender-well or firewall. However the new self-contained units that directly produced DC power are indeed generators.

Here's another one to amaze friends and neighbors with, you know those gas powered things you use to run skil saws at construction sites, and refrigerators during hurricanes? Commonly called generators, they are actually alternators...

---------------------------
* - Fear, Uncertainty, Doubt that always gets injected when certain aftermarket things like alternators, water and power steering pumps, AC compressors, and the like are being discussed.

2003gtstang

I haev the same problem. yesterday my engien lgiht came on and it was my cam shaft position sensor. I went to ford and had it replaced and the car still backfires at startup . They blamed it on my mods so i just returned my car to stock and it still backfires. Is this the smae problem your car encountered?

MU71L4710N

yeah it coughs and dies on startup, takes 1, 2, 3, sometimes 4 cranks to get it running. misfires once in a while while i'm driving but the majority of my problem is startup, and i think my car's in limp mode or something cuz im burning 4x as much gas as i should be.


did the CEL clear after the new alternator? if not clear it and see what it does. might be wise to get a new CPS put in then if its still giving you problems and your back to stock with a new alternator. please let me know what fixes it for you, cuz i'm sure i'll have to do the same once i do something about my alternator. gotta wait till tomorrow to talk to the alternator shop in town and atleast see what they will charge for a rebuild.

SilvrStang

Go on ebay and pick one up bro for about 150 bucks or so

MU71L4710N

well just r2'd the alt and did about 10 test cranks, started up first try every time no coughing, and seems to idle smoother also. been having that problem for months now...but i never had anything to go on because no CEL. its finally gone :-D