well my car just hit 110k i just bought it wrecked last year and started driving it last summer.
since then i did a full oil change. engine,trans and rear end. used royal purple in the engine and tranny not too long ago.
new plugs and wires.
mods in profile
new thermostat and belt
fresh coolant

anything else i should check/replace? car runs great.
only problems is that it grinds shifting to second sometimes and i lose a quart of oil after awhile. should i run high milage synthetic next oil change?

 

I think you have most of the maintainance down, but here's a list of stuff I did when I first purchased my stang

-Change Fuel Filter
-Change All Brake Pads to GS6 Carbon Ceramic Pads
-Flush Coolant with Prestone Super Flush
-Flush Brake Fluid
-Change Transmission Fluid to Royal Purple Synchromax
-Change Wiper Blades
-Add Rislone to Oil
-Check Air Filter
-Check Hoses
-Check Tires for Wear
-Check Wheel Ends for Endplay and Noise
-Inspect Steering Linkage
-Stare At My Car A Lot


If you haven't done so already, maybe have the clutch changed? I know in sports cars they tend to get sloppy past 80K. It may be a good idea to use a bottle of injector cleaner as well.

 

i need new rotors and pads. replacing/upgrading soon.
ran about 3 bottles of injector cleaner threw it.
i think my clutch may have been replaced cause it seems fine doesnt slip or anything. what problems should i look for?
the tranny was def taken apart silicone around the seals and tranny oil was pretty clean when changed.

did u see any differences with the fuel filter ,rislone or brake fluid change?

 

Not a huge difference, no, I think I got slightly better gas mileage, but that's about it. My brake fluid was kinda mucky so it gave me a chance to put some good DOT4 fluid in there.

Clutch-wise, if it doesn't slip at all, you're good. The worst problem I've ever heard of is when a car tries to go up a hill and it just spins the engine and doesn't move the wheels at all from so much clutch slippage. I've driven a car that needed a clutch replacement, and it just felt like the clutch was "soft". Seemed like it was made of foam so I really couldn't tell at which point in releasing the pedal that it actually did engage.

I think my top goal was preventive maintenance, doing all this doesn't do much at the time, but it undoubtably helps the peace of mind and keeps repair costs down in the future. Especially now with your engine at 6 digits.

The biggest difference came with the brake pads. Coming from a japanese car that weighed 1000 lbs less than the mustang, I wasn't too thrilled with having to leg press the brake pedal every time I wanted to stop. OEM pads are completely worthless, so I'd definitely suggest something ceramic or a carbon ceramic composite. Doing so will warp the rotors a little bit more quickly than OEM pads since they bite harder, but for the huge difference it makes in braking, I'd say it's worth it

 

thanks.

anyone reccomend high milage synthetic? i lose a quart after awhile and the low oil light will come on. what could be causing that?

 

have you replaced the PCV valve?

thats a cheap little maintenance item that is usually passed up.

 

no i havent. whats the pcv valve? whats a sign of it goin bad?
ive heard of it i forget what it does though.

 

PCV valve evacuates gases from the crankcase, which prevents sludge build-up.

itll be located somewhere in the intake manifold. (not sure where on your model)

 

ok i know where it is now,goes into the valve cover and connects to the plenum.

i think i may replace that and the fuel filter.