Control arms
04-28-2009, 07:50 PM
#11
Retired Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 9,235
I am with Paintball (mostly) and for sure the linky by Mustang NTriangle.
I would compliment the UPR uppers with ***THESE*** for lowers:
My slight disagreement with Paintball is really only minor and he probably just didn't elaborate as much as I will. It is true one can leave a single UCA (drivers side) and go PHB, but MUCH better to go the distance and go torque-arm and forgo the UCA's altogether. If cannot go torque-arm and PHB, these are the next best bet. The issue is just as he described, but these parts will help to a good degree on the street as well as autoX.
These parts WILL add more NVH than the poly/poly ones, but not too much. The better articulation offered by them will be of greater benefit and be a slight improvement over the others in launching.
Jazzer
I would compliment the UPR uppers with ***THESE*** for lowers:
My slight disagreement with Paintball is really only minor and he probably just didn't elaborate as much as I will. It is true one can leave a single UCA (drivers side) and go PHB, but MUCH better to go the distance and go torque-arm and forgo the UCA's altogether. If cannot go torque-arm and PHB, these are the next best bet. The issue is just as he described, but these parts will help to a good degree on the street as well as autoX.
These parts WILL add more NVH than the poly/poly ones, but not too much. The better articulation offered by them will be of greater benefit and be a slight improvement over the others in launching.
Jazzer
04-29-2009, 12:25 AM
#13
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,139
I am with Paintball (mostly) and for sure the linky by Mustang NTriangle.
I would compliment the UPR uppers with ***THESE*** for lowers:
My slight disagreement with Paintball is really only minor and he probably just didn't elaborate as much as I will. It is true one can leave a single UCA (drivers side) and go PHB, but MUCH better to go the distance and go torque-arm and forgo the UCA's altogether. If cannot go torque-arm and PHB, these are the next best bet. The issue is just as he described, but these parts will help to a good degree on the street as well as autoX.
These parts WILL add more NVH than the poly/poly ones, but not too much. The better articulation offered by them will be of greater benefit and be a slight improvement over the others in launching.
Jazzer
I would compliment the UPR uppers with ***THESE*** for lowers:
My slight disagreement with Paintball is really only minor and he probably just didn't elaborate as much as I will. It is true one can leave a single UCA (drivers side) and go PHB, but MUCH better to go the distance and go torque-arm and forgo the UCA's altogether. If cannot go torque-arm and PHB, these are the next best bet. The issue is just as he described, but these parts will help to a good degree on the street as well as autoX.
These parts WILL add more NVH than the poly/poly ones, but not too much. The better articulation offered by them will be of greater benefit and be a slight improvement over the others in launching.
Jazzer
) so I was saying just leave both stock uppers and get a panhard instead. Upon further reading MM recommends not changing to uppers with poly bushings unless your car is strictly for the drag strip. They say you're better off with the stock rubber bushings. Are those lowers the ones with spherical bushings? Those are good too if so!ANYWAY, to OP I think you should just get the MM lowers or the ones jazzer showed. Both will reduce side to side articulation and not break the bank. I think uppers are unnecessary. I wish I had left mine alone and saved for subframes.
04-29-2009, 08:18 AM
#14
Retired Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 9,235
I figured you knew what was the haps
Installing a PHB will allow you to run a SINGLE UCA on the passenger side (leave the stock one) as a short-cut to installing a torque-arm. The UCA's really have two functions as they are designed. The first is to limit lateral movement, as you have mentioned. The axle is said to have up to 2" of travel either direction. I think this is pretty extreme and would probably take a VERY hard turn and some VERY worn bushings to accomplish such a feat, but that is what I understand. The second job is to stop, or limit, axle wind-up. The UCA's are less than great at both of these jobs and also bind up on axle articulation, as you have also mentioned.
I have not seen a Maximum Motorsports torque-arm installed, but appears to just mount onto the trans cross-member. This would seem to be an easy install and far better than the stock set-up.
MM torque-arm $450.00 or so:
MM PHB $340.00 or so:
UPR poly/spherical (above) LCA's $200.00 or so:
Figure $1100.00 or so (before any labor) for a sweet set-up. Of course, is one was only into the strip, he could spend MUCH less effort and $$$ to accomplish a good launch.
Jazzer
Installing a PHB will allow you to run a SINGLE UCA on the passenger side (leave the stock one) as a short-cut to installing a torque-arm. The UCA's really have two functions as they are designed. The first is to limit lateral movement, as you have mentioned. The axle is said to have up to 2" of travel either direction. I think this is pretty extreme and would probably take a VERY hard turn and some VERY worn bushings to accomplish such a feat, but that is what I understand. The second job is to stop, or limit, axle wind-up. The UCA's are less than great at both of these jobs and also bind up on axle articulation, as you have also mentioned.
I have not seen a Maximum Motorsports torque-arm installed, but appears to just mount onto the trans cross-member. This would seem to be an easy install and far better than the stock set-up.
MM torque-arm $450.00 or so:
MM PHB $340.00 or so:
UPR poly/spherical (above) LCA's $200.00 or so:
Figure $1100.00 or so (before any labor) for a sweet set-up. Of course, is one was only into the strip, he could spend MUCH less effort and $$$ to accomplish a good launch.
Jazzer
04-29-2009, 11:09 AM
#17
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,139
04-29-2009, 11:39 AM
#18
Retired Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 9,235
I think PB is correct on both counts 
My Griggs PHB frame is HUGE and required some exhaust work to fit. My fuel tank was even slightly modified for clearance, so I have pretty much NO spare room under there
The TA, however, does not pose any clearance issues except a bit closer to the ground just in front of the pumpkin. Pretty sure I have rubbed on it while straddling a hump in the road. Although, I have trouble straddling an ace of spades playing card too
Jazzer
My Griggs PHB frame is HUGE and required some exhaust work to fit. My fuel tank was even slightly modified for clearance, so I have pretty much NO spare room under there
The TA, however, does not pose any clearance issues except a bit closer to the ground just in front of the pumpkin. Pretty sure I have rubbed on it while straddling a hump in the road. Although, I have trouble straddling an ace of spades playing card too
Jazzer
04-29-2009, 11:44 AM
#19
Retired Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 9,235
I went to an autoX event over the past weekend and The VIXN performed spectacular throughout the day. This is where the PHB/Watts-Link and torque-arm would really pay-off particularly well.
Jazzer
04-29-2009, 03:16 PM
#20
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Fort Leonard Wood, MO
Posts: 624
jazzer - do you think the MM PHG, TA and LCA's would be a good start for me? you already know my situation from my other thread. i am talking doing this stuff without touching my shocks/struts and springs or anything else. or would just getting LCA's be my best bet for now.