heater core
09-18-2009, 05:51 PM
#11
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
There's a couple tricks.
1. After you do it the first time loose a bunch of the nuts/bolts so the next time you have less to use, lol.
2.Drop the steering column mostly to the floor and only drop the dash down as far as you have to, so you can leave the assemble still in the car.
3. (This is the most important) Pull out Both front seats or you're going to be doing combined version of the Hoky-Poky, Twister and Yoga.
Everything can be pulled out with 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 13mm and a set of Torx (I think there's two main anchors but IDR what size they are.)
If you have a "quality" cordless drill and a 90* bit that will help a ton.
A panel removal tool is good to have around.
(You don't HAVE to do this but eventually you'll realize that you wish you would have shortened it) On the firewall, there is a Long screw with a nut that needs to be taken off to pull the Heater box assembly. When you do this, use a cut off wheel to shorten the length of the bolt, then back the nut off the rest of the way to clean up the threads. (a quick file if necessary)
Make sure you have the A/C line disconnect tools. The metal ones work best but the cheap plastic ones will work. (Make sure you have a towel to stop the R134 from going all over your engine bay, lol.) Or have it evacuated properly.
1. After you do it the first time loose a bunch of the nuts/bolts so the next time you have less to use, lol.
2.Drop the steering column mostly to the floor and only drop the dash down as far as you have to, so you can leave the assemble still in the car.
3. (This is the most important) Pull out Both front seats or you're going to be doing combined version of the Hoky-Poky, Twister and Yoga.
Everything can be pulled out with 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 13mm and a set of Torx (I think there's two main anchors but IDR what size they are.)
If you have a "quality" cordless drill and a 90* bit that will help a ton.
A panel removal tool is good to have around.
(You don't HAVE to do this but eventually you'll realize that you wish you would have shortened it) On the firewall, there is a Long screw with a nut that needs to be taken off to pull the Heater box assembly. When you do this, use a cut off wheel to shorten the length of the bolt, then back the nut off the rest of the way to clean up the threads. (a quick file if necessary)
Make sure you have the A/C line disconnect tools. The metal ones work best but the cheap plastic ones will work. (Make sure you have a towel to stop the R134 from going all over your engine bay, lol.) Or have it evacuated properly.
Saved to my Mustang Stuff folder--thank you!
At my age and girth the seats come out to vacuum the floorboards...
09-18-2009, 10:27 PM
#12
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Georgia
Posts: 288
After doing this three times I cut the lid over the heater core to make it easier to remove and install the heater core itself without removing the entire air box. I taped it back with aluminum tape and sealed it with RTV. But the dash always has to come out. It's a big s-sandwhich for anyone but you just got to grin and bear it.
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