sweet99

Only as a one time trieltosee where my knock stops with adequate fuel. The fuelis miles away and this ismjust a test. Wondering if anyone has tried this with an added lubricant like ATF? THX

BraMas

English please!

cliffyk

+1, there's no 144 character limit here, ask your question good ol' plain english...

lizzyfan

Only octane boost that works http://www.sidebysidesports.com/toacrafuco.html
I have used it before and it works

sweet99

Yeah, pretty poor spelling, sorry. I ended up with a build with high compression and since Xylene has an octane rating of 117 and is readily available I am trying to see what octane I need to run 25* total timing at WOT.
I also plan on a 12.5:1 AFR on the wideband. Just don't want to run Xylene more than a time or two. Who knows how it will react with the rubber and plastics it may come in to contact with. THX for the link to the booster that you claim works!

Bullitt2theHead

What compression ratio are you running? What cam profile are you running as well? High compression with stock cams can easily cause a problem. The higher the compression, the more aggressive cam profile you want to run. Octane booster sounds like a temporary fix for a engine setup imbalance.

sweet99

I have 11.4:1 Static, 10.4:1 dynamic and 210psi cranking compressions. The cam is a custom Comp/230*/234* on a 110*LSA and a 106* centerline. I was going with a set of Hitech stage 2 heads, 48cc chambers so the 4.5cc dish pistons would have been perfect for the 10.25:1 Hitech recommended. Delays, not even sure they finished the heads as they were still finishing the design so I switched to the TFS heads that also got delayed whose design was to allow for higher compression. SoI ended upo with a set of heads from Nick McKinney, stock PI chambers, about 42cc's but we redid the valve job so likely more like 44cc's now.
Many guys said no problem with 11.5:1, some saying 12:1 would be OK. Even my builder said the new Chevies, Camaro for one, run 10.7:1. The Vette may be 11:1, not positive. Again,no problem.
Engine done and knock even at 23* and 25* at a 12.5:1 AFR is my target. The dyno tuner I will go to in the spring has no issue with the compression and feels he will be eble to tune for it.
I'm just messing with it for the next couple of weeks as I know meth injection would be like adding 4-5 octane points and if that is going to be enough to allow my goals I am set.
Xylene is even in the gas we buy AT THE PUMPS AS IS TOLUENE BUT TOLUENE IS ALSO A PRECURSOR FOE METHAMPHETAMINE SO IT IS OFF THE STORE SHELVES. Xylene has an octane rating of 117. A gallon added to a full tank, 14 more of 93 octane adds some but not a lot. The formula for additives is (gallons x octane + gallons x octane)/2. So 117 + 1302=1419 1419/15=94.6 and I read where some over the counter of octane booster that really raises the octane full points, there are 2 to my knowledge, Lucas and NOS. I use Lucas, is said to add 3 full points. This is supposed to be a "kicker" and add not the advertised 3 but closer to 5 points. So I should/could have 99/100 octane. WE used to have 100 unleaded and 112 leaded but both have been discontinued but I could get some of the 112 or even 114 octane and be sure of the final octane. I need to know what octane will allow the 25* and 12.5:1 AFR.My wideband is fairly accurate but on my d\yno pulls for numbers said a little higher so I try for 12.2 to be safe.
I have also heard good things about Torco and could try that next spring. By the way the Xylene/additive formula comes from a guy who works at a major refinery that tests the octane of the fuels made so he can test any of his home brews and know for sure, cool job!
The Xylene, toluene and a couple others come from the president of the Buick club who has/had an 11 sec street 1970/1971 Buick GS.
This is the guy/car that trashed a HEMI twice back in 1985 in a grudge match race, more of a grudge on the HEMI guy's part as he said "Buicks run like they were tied to a tree". The Buick even took the Holley 850 off in place of a Q-jet to be more stock like. Youmay have guessed I am an old Buick guy, had 5 GS cars in my time and a friend has a 1965 Frame off resto GS now with a 425" bored to 4230" that runs around 13 flat at 110mph. Not bad for a 40+ year old motor with 1.87/1.50" valves, 3.23's and a 2-speed tranny weighing 3700 with driver on 215/70's! Just some FYI trivia. Those old muscle cars were not as quick as the modern muscle but 510lbs/ft. of torque in by 2800rpm was a rush none the less. One more thing was that Motor Trend tested only 2 quicker cars from the 60's and into the early 70's, the muscle car days. The Cobra, 2200lbs. with 485HP and the 435HP Vette with 4.10's that were quicker than the Buick GS stage 1. That included the famous LS-6 Chevelle in 1970, 450HP. One guy who had one shipped to England said he mopped up at the track except for "those pesky Stage 1 Buicks"!

So I am not trying to band aid the car or such as a dyno tune will get what can be gotten as this guy was recommended by Ron at Fox Lake. Just messing around a bit until storage in about 2 weeks. My stock midpipe and catback could be holding mine back a bit and the stock aircan and inlet pipe also. I have the parts for the exhaust to have a 2.5" X-pipe and Borla Pro XS mufflers, I will use the stock tailpipe asssemby as the gasses should have cooled enough to have stopped expanding enough to not need the extra diameter. I would like to get a JLT CAI but I am told it will not fit with ny SVO intake. I want to know why as both the SVO and Bullet have 14" circumference TB's. Got off topic but tou guys are knowledgablke and perhaps could add to what I plan or help out with the JLT fitment.
There is a spark plug that Hitech uses on SC cars that just about eliminates any knock. I think Brian said it was the recessed nose version of the NGK TR 55, which I use. So I have that possibility also. I gapped mine at .045 but have not gone colder.
Thanks guys, any tips or suggestions are appreciated.
OH, on the cams. The shop had a set of Comp 270's on hand and installed at 109.5* they got .055" PTV. Many guys degree their cams but do not check PTV. I knowof a few who have had difficulties with the most popular Comps as they cannot get them degreed at 109* and have the recommended .080" PTV. One guy hadto degree his at 16* to get the .080", that kills power.
So I had a PTV issue and a compression issue and had to get the best compromise. I would prefer the Comp 262 and 10.25 and that would make the most poower from idle to redline. Sure I would not be taskinmg the motor to 6800-7000rpm but the motor would like the lower revs and the power would be there. The Comp278's, the big ones, 242* intake made just 8whp more than the 262's and all after 4500rpm. Later!

Bullitt2theHead

my only other bit of advice is aside from cam profiles, which you seem to have a moderately agressive profile, the stock 2v combustion chamber isnt well suited to high combustion ratios. this is strictly a chamber design/quench deal. Either drop the ignition timing or increase octane, which was your original pursuit. Personally I recommend a comprehensive tune.

sweet99

yep! dyno tune in the spring and storage this week or next. I can;'t hear and can't tell if it helped. Timing backed off 4*. Richened 4% too. thx!