stangman1976

I am getting codes 1132 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 1 and 1152 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 2 any ideas what it can be? I put mil eliminators on an check engine light wont go off keeps coming back on even after being cleared. obviously something making her run rich but what??? I cant find any vac leaks got an aeromotive fuel pressure regulator holding pressure steady. everything seems spot on otherwise, but I notice when light is off she pulls alot harder then when light is on and the smell of exhaust is way different. any ideas?????????????????

cliffyk

When you say you have an Aeromotive regulator are you talking about the full return style fuel system? If so, then without a proper tune it will run as you describe.

In the OEM returnless system the PCM controls the fuel pressure to maintain a constany 40psi pressure drop across the injectors--I.e. if the intake manifold vacuum is 15 inHG ( -7.4 psi) the fuel rail pressure will be 40 - 7.4 = 32.6 psi. Not some steady pressue.

If you are running a constant rail pressure, without being tuned to handle same, then anytime the manifold vacuum is higher then 5 inHg or so it will run rich, and pig-rich when the vacuum is 12 inHG or more...

stangman1976

no I just have the regulator on (other stuff rails pump lines all in boxes yet as I dont need them right now), set at 50# (aeromotive recommended set point) with out the vac line hooked up then when I put the vac line on it drops to like 43# or some **** and stays steady on idle or when I open it up. I have a nice gauge mounted to fuel rail to help me keep an eye on things.

reason I checked codes is sometimes when in idle the rpms drop to like 150 then pop back up then drop then pop up then drop then pop up then it must read something an boom steady idle. if I give it gas when it is doing the idle up down thing it almost seems like it is being choked and forget about trying to drive it when it is doing that. at first I thought the MAP sensor was going bad thats y I put code reader on it. but that just told me she was running rich which I already knew lol.

cliffyk

Take the regulator off, it's messing with the returnless fuel system and the PCM's ability to control fuel pressure...

stangman1976

ok I'll put the stock one back on. but I could also drop the pressure on the aeromotive unit it set at 43 I could drop it to say 39 or 40. Idk if that would help or if it the regulator itself messing with comp. dont know y it would it is a direct fit from stock just regulates more consistently. either way u da man, u always give correct advice and u know 100x more then these other dudes so if u say take it off I will go buy a new factory unit (my original was messing up so that y I replaced it early without the rest of the stuff)

cliffyk

Whoops, I just realised you have a '96 GT (missed that before), which means it has a return type fuel system--not the PCM controlled returnless system I was speaking to previously--sorry 'bout that!

So I would, as you suggested, reduce the fuel pressure to 39-40 psi and see how it performs--or install the OEM regulator and see what the rail pressure is, then use that as a starting point for the Aeromotive unit.

stangman1976

ok I will try reducing the pressure to see if that helps. I gotta get rid of the running probs seems to be getting worse wit time. I'm afraid one these times the rpm's gonna drop so low she stalls. I tried to hold the pedal at 2,000 rpms when it was acting up and it was almost like it was running on 7 clys but throttle seemed to be choked off, idk hard to describe over internet. then just like that everything started working and she ran smooth all the way home. first cold start is usually fine it's the hot or warm starts where I notice it most.

stangman1976

well after setting the fuel pressure to 40 the light has not come on yet but car still runs like ****. only put on about 15 miles so maybe is still learning but all the other problems as far as idle go are still there

stangman1976

well light back on idk what to do. I dont want to throw a butt load of cash at it buying sensors and lil shyt like that or pay some mechanic a butt load to try an sell me a new motor or something lol. grrr hmmm

cliffyk

Have you tried using the OEM regulator?