Warrior1876

Can the stock 01 GT block handle 1000 hp if the crank and internal can handle that much or do you risk cracking it with that much power. Thanks

mrtstang

The block itself can handle it if the rest can.

dastangman

That's not necessarily true...I'm assuming you're proposing this proposition. For instance, let's say (in my case it's true) I'm using an 01 Cobra with the Windsor Aluminum Plant block which was used in 2001 Cobras and I'm swapping to forged internals...I could essentially (and I'm not) build a rotating assembly capable of supporting 2000hp, but at that point the block would fail. Again, I just want to clarify for all readers that what I'm writing about and what I believe the original poster is asking about is the actual block strength, not the short block as a whole (including rotating assembly).

I'll get to the GT Mustang in a bit, but between 1999 and 2001 there was a switch in blocks for the Cobras. In 1999, they used the Teksid block which is actually a much stronger block than the WAP which was used mainly in 2001 for the Cobras. There were a few that used the Teksid (because of overages in amount of blocks in stock if I remember correctly), but the vast majority have the much lighter, but less strong WAP block. The Teksid was capable of supporting 900hp pretty safely or more (1500hp?) with proper preparation, while the WAP was safer to use in the 750-800hp range max. The 03/04 Cobras have iron blocks which are good for 1000hp or so. These are NOT rear wheel horsepower numbers, just at the crank.

Of course, in terms of the short block as a whole you'll always have guys saying they have a completely stock car with non-forged internals running 1000hp without problems, but then, it only takes one fuel issue and boom. It sorta is hit and miss, but in general, it's just a matter of time, and of course tuning is the biggest part of the equation. The WAP block is weaker in the upper cylinder areas where deformation occurs which leads not only to decreased performance, but failure over time. Now, I understand you wanted to know about the GT block, but I figured we'd put some comparisons up.

As far as the GT, in 96-01 they used the Windsor Iron Block and in the 02-04 GTs and the 03/04 Cobras they used the Romeo Iron Blocks, both of which are equally as stout. Essentially, the blocks in the 03/04 Cobras are the exact same as those in the GTs, so if you've seen the stock block of a Terminator Cobra hold the power, the same is true for the GT.

The thing with power levels though, and this goes back to tuning and the rotating assembly a bit, the closer you come to hitting that max point the less room for error in tuning and problems you have. Go slightly too lean at WOT approaching the 1000hp and you're going to have a much higher risk of blowing a piston than at 700hp. And if you notice, everyone uses the word "around" when talking about maximums, because what exactly is maximum? There really is no magic number, there's a range where you start to play with fire a bit and should probably avoid. If someone says that an engine maxes out at 1000hp, I wouldn't go anywhere near 900hp tops personally. I guess what I'm trying to say is you can't just build a car that makes exactly 1000hp when a block maxes at 1000hp and expect everything to be perfect because there's no room for error during tuning or driving. Usually when people post a block maxing out at a certain level, they mean that's the safe point to stop and there's probably more room to go...but I wouldn't just assume that and end up with a cracked block in the corner of the garage.

Warrior1876

Wow, that was a serious answer. Thanks. I am looking to forge my engine soon and basically was looking to see if i should use the stock block or something else. My goal is 650 hp and on top of that a 125 shot of nos. If the stock block can handle that i will stick with the stock and save money.

Fobra

If a part is rated for 1000hp then normally it has a 10-15% tolerance incorporated in its design. Contrary to popular internet opinion, most builders will tell you that they prefer an iron block as opposed to an aluminum block for big horse power applications, especially when that big number comes as a result of high boost. The idea or better yet the fact, is that because aluminum gets its strength from a cyclic heat treatment, as the block is used and heat cycled it becomes weaker over time. This reasoning does not apply to race setup where the block and components are routinely rebuilt and replaced. Also aluminum can be repaired, but lets face it, nobody here is going to do that. So in short, IMO for moderately power cars aluminum is fine, the weight savings is nice, but in a real world sense not significant because you can simply find a way to make more power to compensate. On a track car or a bracket racer, the benefits are obvious, but for a street car, the cost makes its use inadvisable, when your $ could be better spent on everything else, suspension, HCI, etc. If you have a teksid, use it, if you have a iron block, use it... there is just not a worthwhile difference except for the most hardcore users.

dastangman

Yeah, I'd agree...the majority of the Mustang population (or more specifically those highly modding their cars) aren't even approaching numbers to be worried about in terms of block strength. Really, it just comes down to what available and what's priced at what. Since you have the Iron block, you're ready to go for those power levels, but given you needed to find one, you'd probably be just fine with any block from the 96-04...

As I'm sure you're aware of, as you mentioned, the internals are really the deciding factor and again the tune. Given the finances are there, you can easily create 775hp reliably I'd think. You might be better off though, just swapping out the whole short block and getting one that's already built from an 03-04 Cobra or other source. It could actually save some time and would be put together, you could sell the existing shortblock as a whole to someone who needed one...