Caster/Camber Plates?
04-05-2010, 01:45 PM
#11
I ordered the Camber Bolts from Summit, and put them in yesterday. Like you said, EASY install. Thirty minutes a wheel. Thank you WOLVERINE!! Funny, I waited all these years putting off getting the PLATES, and right when I was going to order them, your one small sentence saved the day. And $30.00 at that, with shipping. You saved me so much aggravation.
04-05-2010, 06:35 PM
#12
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Maryland
Posts: 140
I ordered the Camber Bolts from Summit, and put them in yesterday. Like you said, EASY install. Thirty minutes a wheel. Thank you WOLVERINE!! Funny, I waited all these years putting off getting the PLATES, and right when I was going to order them, your one small sentence saved the day. And $30.00 at that, with shipping. You saved me so much aggravation.
04-06-2010, 02:18 AM
#14
I'm hoping to install a set of eibach pro kit lowering springs on my 02 mustang GT next weekend but I read somewhere that I need caster/camber plates in order to properly align the front end after installing the lowering springs. Is this true or can I do it without them?
04-06-2010, 07:20 AM
#15
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: OH
Posts: 564
The camber bolts replace the top strut bolt. The shaft of the bolt has a cut out that allows you to push the strut in or out depending on what you are looking for. It is kind of hard to explain... Here are the instructions for the install. They explain it a little better:
http://static.summitracing.com/globa.../sps-81280.pdf
The Adjustment range: is -1.75° to +1.75° of camber. My mustang is lowered 1.5" all around. I still had room to add more camber with the camber bolts if I would have needed.
I took mine in for an alignment after I installed the bolts even though I thought it looked good. They said my camber was dead on and they did not have any issues with the camber bolts. Hope this helps.
http://static.summitracing.com/globa.../sps-81280.pdf
The Adjustment range: is -1.75° to +1.75° of camber. My mustang is lowered 1.5" all around. I still had room to add more camber with the camber bolts if I would have needed.
I took mine in for an alignment after I installed the bolts even though I thought it looked good. They said my camber was dead on and they did not have any issues with the camber bolts. Hope this helps.
04-06-2010, 09:47 AM
#16
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Acworth,Ga.
Posts: 812
It's a BOLT that goes into the top strut hole. The bolt has a CAM on one end, so when you turn the Camber Bolt it moves the top of the wheel in and out. I adjusted mine to max positive camber to pull the top of the wheel outward. I have Eibach Pro Kit Springs, so the camber was not that bad. But, if you lower the front too much with lowering springs, you may need CC Plates anyway. The bolts only go so far on the camber, +1.75 to -1.75.
04-07-2010, 09:36 AM
#17
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Acworth,Ga.
Posts: 812
04-07-2010, 09:40 AM
#18
so will the camber bolts get you closer to 100% aligned thab without them? Do think I should just hand em to the shop and be like here, these will help you? Or should I sintall the myself? Fo I have to cut/drill anything because I think you said they have slots cut out
04-07-2010, 09:46 AM
#19
Sgt. Killjoy
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: DMV
Posts: 2,090
I thought you didn't need CC plates for anything less than like a 1.5 or 1.75" drop? I know for H&R SS you do and for Eibach sportlines you will, but I thought you didn't need it on a pro kit. Maybe I am wrong here.
04-07-2010, 01:17 PM
#20
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Acworth,Ga.
Posts: 812
It depends on how low your car is, to whether you can get 100%. They're easy to install. If you can tighten and loosen bolts, there is nothing to it. Just take off the wheel, loosen and remove the top strut bolt, and install the new Camber bolt in it's place. BARELY tighten it, then loosen the bottom bolt just enough so you can move the wheel in or out, by turning the new camber bolt. You can look at the movement as you turn the bolt to see whether the wheel is tucking under the fender or pulling out toward the outside of the fender. Just follow the easy instructions, you'll have no problem.