4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

clutch quadrant

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Old 05-13-2010, 11:06 AM
  #21  
trailor
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Originally Posted by JerseyTrueBlue
If the stock quadrant was worthless howcome the cars came with them, better yet why is my friend doing 11.50's with it? If it's fragil I'm pretty sure it would have snapped on him considering his car sees the track more then 50 times a year. As far as it being ugly goes..it's tucked up under your dash, if one of the reasons you bought it was because it looks nice that's just ridiculous.
what does that matter???? unless he just pops the clutch pedal out, without keeping his foot on it, he wouldn't see much difference in pedal wear. however, the pedal does wear no matter what, and the cable does grind into the plastic, which causes the cable to eventually fray. so sure, stick with the stock POS if you want to set yourself up for an expensive day at the dealership. according to the ford dealership database, the replacement time for it is 2.9 labor hours, and at ~$80/hr, i would much rather buy the $40 all metal quadrant that has no grooves to be worn down

edit: for those of you who are exaact about numbers, the 2.9 hrs is for the entire clutch pedal, the quadrant itself is only 0.4 hrs. however, i am more than confident the mechanics there will say there was damage done to the pedal assembly and will refuse to replace just the quadrant

Last edited by trailor; 05-13-2010 at 11:09 AM.
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Old 05-27-2010, 01:01 PM
  #22  
jtfrog
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Default quadrant

Are all of the after market quadrants what they call speed quadrants?
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Old 05-27-2010, 03:03 PM
  #23  
cliffyk
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Originally Posted by jtfrog
Are all of the after market quadrants what they call speed quadrants?
No, the "speed" quadrants have a more pronounced mechanical advantage at the initial action which causes the clutch to release and engage) faster--my brother got one and found that for a DD it sucks...

Also, and FWIW, my experience has been that ALL after market quadrants require that you use washers or spacers (UPR ships spacers with theirs) to keep the quadrant from rattling from side-to-side, and to keep it's groove--and therefore the cable--centered with the adjuster.

This makes the action much smoother, and minimises cable wear; as does breaking the sharp edges of the cable groove with a mill file, and applying a light coat of heavy grease to the groove and cable.
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