cliffyk

As you describe it it is a $500 car--tops...

The idle issue is 99.44% likely to be the IAC, don't waste time cleaning it, just get a new one ($50 to $60 at your FLAPS);

The blower resistor is $20 or so;

The anti-roll bar links should be replaced ($25 to $50 for the bushings last I knew--which was some time back);

AFAIK low coolant is the only trigger for the coolant idiot light;

The rear axle seal is cheap (< $20), to replace it you will have to:

1. Get the rear end up on jackstands;
2. Remove the differential cover;
3. Remove the wheels;
4. Remove the brake discs;
5. Remove/pull back the ABS sensors (if it has ABS);
6. Remove the differential pinion shaft lock bolt;
7. Remove the differential pinion shaft;
8. Push each axle shaft inward and remove the U-washer/clip;
9. Remove the axle shaft;
10. Remove and replace the seal;
    and having gone this far replace the other side too,
    and the pinion seal;
11. and then, once again gotten this far:
    replace the bearings,
    LSD clutch packs,
    and inspect the gearsd for signs of wear/damage--replace if necessary;
12. Reassemble in reverse order;

See what I mean about its being a $500 car...

-------------------------------------
I probably missed something in the above list--be gentle, I did it of the top of my head...

t2urtle

i never did anything with the rear diff, other then drain and fills. I can do front CV axles on FWD cars as well. This doesn't sound like a task for me to do myself to replace the axle seal.

Oh and it does need brakes as well least the rears.


what would a dried up axle do? lock up at one point? break in 2? basiclly how important is this.

I mainly gave the car a quick once over, i took it around the block, car drove decent, heard the sway end link and that i think is the exhaust rattle. I looked at where the car was parked no leaks, parked in drive way and laid on my back with my flash light and saw what i saw. I saw everything as things i can fix without a problem or CHEAP to fix. Axle seal will not be done by me, too foreign for me to try myself, unless there is a detailed DIY with pictures in here.


my break down would be

blower resistor $25 + 1 hour of my time.
Front /rear brakes $150-200 + 3 hours of my time.
front end links, i'll do the bushing while there $50-75 + 1 hour
interior switchs and trim. a couple hours and screws
Axle seal...... maybe $500 at a shop, get both done.
coolant light.... HOPEFULLY $10 gallon of coolant will do the trick.
IAC valve $65 and 30 minutes.
plugs, filter, belts and etc $100

I overguess prices always. Plus i think from a glance he had summer tires on them. or Summer like tires rated for A/S but will not do me good in the snow.

Good side was it really had 80k on the motor, small rust on rear fenders, paint looked decent. Cloth interior, no sunroof. Auto shifts nicely, engine has fair amount of power. All my problems were just eyeball problems, that a novice gear head can see instantly. If there are other common issues please let me know and i'll check it out.

cliffyk

Just doing the axle seal is not that big a deal, if you have done FWD axles then you are entirely capable of doing the axle seals.

Google it and you'l find numerous how-tos...

"what would a dried up axle do? lock up at one point? break in 2? basiclly how important is this."

Yes, very...

t2urtle

i just saw a youtube on a guy doing a older ranger.

my main fear is having stuff MOVE while that pinion bolt is removed. I watched a guy shim/preload a rear diff and that was WAY out of my league. It looks somewhat simple to do actually. least the guy on the youtube video made it seem, he had poor lighting and spoke redneck. do you rotate to get to the other side C clip? I only saw one C clip from his video, he didn't do the other side.

I doubt i can get it down to $500, he probably sell it so high school kid for $2000.

schmallz

There is most likely an air leak between the MAF and the ThrottleBody.

New CAI and SCT MAF and call it a day!

cliffyk

I think you are underestimating your mechanical skills, also there's nothing in there that cannot be put back in place by regular human beings...

As to the car the fact that is has any rust would make it worth $200 down here.

I lived on Cape Cod for 45 years, came down here in '92. I miss crisp clean air (Florida has a permanent musty smell) and real seasons (we have 2-1/2, OK, Hot, and MFHOT); but I don't miss scraping and shoveling, and having cars rot out from under me, one damned bit...

sharpshooter33

Not to hijack your thread, but I have an idle problem also and it's not consistent. Also seems to do things around 1500rpm or less. Haven't checked vacuum lines since it's not consistent. I did replace the IAC, because I tried to clean it and it didn't work. Replacing it with new didn't either. Does the MAF sometimes cause the same or is there some other sensor I should be looking at?
I think it's sensor because it doesn't seem to be doing it all the time.
Sounds like your's it the IAC. Take it off and hose it with Carb cleaner then WD40. I did and my old one looks like new now.

SS33