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Battery drain problem

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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 11:49 PM
  #1  
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SKATERANCH
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From: california
Default Battery drain problem

Thanks to this site I finally found the drain on my 2000 ford mustang
It was fuse 39 stated on michell's book "generic electronic module which measured 240 milliamps on the battery buss all other fuses not in.except fuse 6. Just what is a "generic electronic module" ?

This vehicle also has lojack module unable to locate where it was. Any information on lojack placement I think the lojack batteries maybe bad and suspect the lojack are draining the battery maybe? comments welcomes and invited
It is unknown what circuit it was connected to. Any ideas? The service call for lojack is about 100 bucks.
Old Jul 7, 2010 | 06:45 AM
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cliffyk
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Originally Posted by 2000 shop manual
The GEM controls the following functions:
  • warning chimes and warning lamps
  • one-touch down window
  • windshield washers and wipers
  • battery saver
  • illuminated entry with keyless remote entry
  • interior lighting
  • passive anti-theft
It is important to know that it can take up to one hour for all of the modules to shutdown, here's the full dark current test procedure (you have already done a bunch of this):

Originally Posted by 2000 shop manual
  1. Make sure the BJB and CJB fuse panels are accessible without turning on interior and underhood lights.
  2. Drive the vehicle at least five minutes and over 48 km/h (30 mph) to turn on and exercise vehicle systems.
  3. Allow the vehicle to sit with the key off for at least one hour to allow modules to time out/power down.
  4. Connect a jumper wire between the negative battery cable and the negative battery post to prevent modules from resetting and to catch capacitive drains.
  5. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the post without breaking the connection of the jumper wire.
  6. NOTE: It is very important that continuity is not broken between the battery and the negative battery cable when connecting the meter. If this happens, the entire procedure must be repeated.

    Connect the tester between negative battery cable and the post. The meter must be capable of reading milliamps and should have a 10 amp capability.

  7. NOTE: If the meter settings need to be switched or the test leads need to be moved to another jack, the jumper wire must be reinstalled to avoid breaking continuity.

    Remove the jumper wire.

  8. NOTE: Amperage draw will vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the equipment package. Compare to a comparable vehicle for reference.

    No stock production vehicle should have more than 50 mA draw.

  9. If the draw is found to be excessive, pull fuses from the CJB one at a time and note the current drop. Do not reinstall the fuses until you are finished testing.
  10. If the draw is still excessive, remove the fuses from the BJB one at a time and note the current drop. Do not reinstall the fuses until you are finished testing.
  11. Check the wiring schematic in the wiring diagram for any circuits that run from the battery without passing through the BJB. Disconnect these circuits if the draw is still excessive
Can't help you with the lojack...
Old Jul 7, 2010 | 07:00 AM
  #3  
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cliffyk
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I did find this which may be of some help:

Old Jul 8, 2010 | 11:41 PM
  #4  
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SKATERANCH
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: california
Default

Thank you for factory test procedure, I looked where the lojack picture shows in the rear side panel .However I have a converable were there are actuators which probably would get the way. I'll run the test again to confirm the true cause I forgot I had the door open when I pulled the fuse in the interior next time. I will wait a hour and jumper or bridge the door switch before the test. I'll get back to you so you can pass it on to this site.
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