Wont stay running and wont start without starter fluid. Fuel Problem?
#11
Ok so when I turn the key to on without starting it, its supposed to prime the fuel rails and provide some pressure correct? If I just turn the key to the on position and push down on the shrader valve at the fuel rail, should fuel come out of the valve? If it is supposed to and nothing comes out, does that mean bad fuel pump or bad relay switch or still could be either. I am only getting the P0190 code.
Or should there never be fuel coming out of the valve with the key to the on position?
Or should there never be fuel coming out of the valve with the key to the on position?
#12
To reserect this thread I am having the same problem with my 2004 mustang GT. It will only start with starter fluid and then will run forever however if I do not use starter fluid it just cranks and cranks and cranks. In the run position I do not hear the fuel pump priming but strangely enough once I start it with starting fluid ithe fuel pump must be running because it runs for over 10 minutes.
i replaced the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor thinking this was turning the fuel pump off at initial start.
I've the disconnect battery for days, etc. Nothing seems to work. I have 12 volts at the trunk crash switch and even bypassed it.
Any thoughts???
i replaced the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor thinking this was turning the fuel pump off at initial start.
I've the disconnect battery for days, etc. Nothing seems to work. I have 12 volts at the trunk crash switch and even bypassed it.
Any thoughts???
#13
To reserect this thread I am having the same problem with my 2004 mustang GT. It will only start with starter fluid and then will run forever however if I do not use starter fluid it just cranks and cranks and cranks. In the run position I do not hear the fuel pump priming but strangely enough once I start it with starting fluid ithe fuel pump must be running because it runs for over 10 minutes.
i replaced the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor thinking this was turning the fuel pump off at initial start.
I've the disconnect battery for days, etc. Nothing seems to work. I have 12 volts at the trunk crash switch and even bypassed it.
Any thoughts???
i replaced the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor thinking this was turning the fuel pump off at initial start.
I've the disconnect battery for days, etc. Nothing seems to work. I have 12 volts at the trunk crash switch and even bypassed it.
Any thoughts???
#14
This may be too simple of a solution since you are throwing codes, but, did you clean out your IAC valve? Mine jams up every six months or so, especially after driving in hte rain and letting the car sit for a few days.
I pull it off, spray some electronics cleaner on it to clean out the carbon, let it try, reinstall and I am good to go. When the valve gets stuck, the car will turn over and then stall immediately. I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it running.
BTW - I have a 99GT with 118K on the clock. Hope this helps.
I pull it off, spray some electronics cleaner on it to clean out the carbon, let it try, reinstall and I am good to go. When the valve gets stuck, the car will turn over and then stall immediately. I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it running.
BTW - I have a 99GT with 118K on the clock. Hope this helps.
#15
I hope it is ok to ask this question here since my car is V6 (02 convertible). As far as troubleshooting and replacing parts of the fuel system looks like there is a lot in common.
Just like the subject says, I can add fuel at the air breather, and the car will run till that amount is used up. My next step is the fuel pump. For thread completeness, I will cover my previous steps later in the post.
My question is, has any of you replaced a fuel pump when the tank is full? Any words of wisdom? I will be doing it by myself.
I did a 96 Couger by using a floor jack for the third hand. When lowering it and working out the filler tube, it got a little dicey. When doing my nephew SUV, my brother-in-law and I siphon most of it out into 5-gallon buckets. That in of itself is a little dicey. After watching this youtube video,
, it shows a lot. It might be more informative than entertaining, but anyone who takes time to share deserves a hand. Thank you, Danny. Anyway, at the 10:33 point, you see the end of the filler tube and it looks like you would not be able to siphon anyway.
So I was just curious if any thoughts.
The previous troubleshooting that I did was to confirm I have voltage at the tank. I did replace the fuel filter and it did start and run without priming. After setting the car down off stands, it would not run. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge, but pressing Schrader valve at best a slight drip, mostly nothing. This was repeated several times after cycling the key. We only drive the car during the summer and only in good weather. When I went to get it out this year it would not start. A friend has a theory because the brushes sit in the same spot and not being somewhat scraped clean from the natural running, they tend to corrode over. While researching this issue, there are a lot of "it has been sitting for a long time" stories.
Just like the subject says, I can add fuel at the air breather, and the car will run till that amount is used up. My next step is the fuel pump. For thread completeness, I will cover my previous steps later in the post.
My question is, has any of you replaced a fuel pump when the tank is full? Any words of wisdom? I will be doing it by myself.
I did a 96 Couger by using a floor jack for the third hand. When lowering it and working out the filler tube, it got a little dicey. When doing my nephew SUV, my brother-in-law and I siphon most of it out into 5-gallon buckets. That in of itself is a little dicey. After watching this youtube video,
So I was just curious if any thoughts.
The previous troubleshooting that I did was to confirm I have voltage at the tank. I did replace the fuel filter and it did start and run without priming. After setting the car down off stands, it would not run. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge, but pressing Schrader valve at best a slight drip, mostly nothing. This was repeated several times after cycling the key. We only drive the car during the summer and only in good weather. When I went to get it out this year it would not start. A friend has a theory because the brushes sit in the same spot and not being somewhat scraped clean from the natural running, they tend to corrode over. While researching this issue, there are a lot of "it has been sitting for a long time" stories.
Last edited by penright; 07-17-2019 at 02:40 PM. Reason: Fixed the link for the filler tube so it would not evaluate it.
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