Thats not right...there are pieces of chain missing.... On mine they are loops.... Maybe that explains the conflicting opinions

 

Yeah, we used to do that in the old days, offset keys, and opening up the key slot and using tightly fitted shims works too--heck I have even opened up the slot in the sprocket and drilled and tapped for set screws coming in through the sides of the hub or sprocket to make it "adjustable".

So, like you said it is "doable" for those like you and I that have the KSAs; also as you said it's not the right way, and it is certainly not for beginners or even mid-level engine builders...

 

I noticed that too, a wonder it works!

 

Cliffy, were on the same page

 

I knew we were, just two type A personalities banging heads--happens all the time...

 

Eh, in all honesty im just an *******

 

Don't start that--I can be a bigger *** than you any day, I have 60+ years experience in that field...

Oh, I forgot about getting the timing the way you like, then drilling a blind hole straight back between the shaft and the sprocket, and reaming it for a taper pin, or tapping it and installing a set screw--then there's always the welder...

 

You guys are a trip...

The factory did a **** poor job with our cam install and did'nt degree them at all. Some cams are way off some are spot on but I agree with the other posts. Degreeing the cams are essential but why bother degreeing stock cams?

Why not drop in a set of 96~98 cobra cams? They have more duration and for a NA car 108 is the ideal LC for intake cams. If you cant get 96~98 cams then the 99 cobra cams only have 2* less duration.

Either way you go you can do it the easy way which will require 2~4 Cloyes secondary gears and depending on how far off the exhaust cams are off you may need the TFS adjustable primary gears, or you could go old school and file the keyways and make your own keys with parts from Harbor Freight. Either will work great depending on your mechanical abilities