cliffyk

Did you disconnect the battery for 5-7 minutes after installing the new IAC--doing so will force the KAM to reset and learn newer idle air trim values sooner.

Did you use a new gasket when installing the IAC?

Do you have an IAC restrictor mod, if so the hole is too small...

Autohaulers INC

yes to the frist 2 questions, i didnt do the IAC mod because the article said it will create a whistling sound underneath the hood but if you think this will cure my problem then I will try it tonight...

is this the mod you spoke of?
https://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l...ging-rpms.html

Autohaulers INC

[QUOTE=Autohaulers INC;7732021]yes to the first 2 questions, but I passed on the IAC mod because it didnt seem to apply to the problem I am having....

Do you think the battery or alternator is dropping the ball? its odd that it happens at hard braking and worse when the a/c is on...

cliffyk

I asked about the IAC mod because it can create problems, if you have not done it DON'T at this time.

It would not hurt the monitor the battery voltage under the conditions that cause the engine to die--you can do this at the cigar lighter socket as long as the central connector in the socket clean--if the cigar lighter has actually been used to light cigars/cigarettes then center connector can be corroded all to crap and you will need to clean it or find another power point.

With the engine running it should never drop below 12.2 V, if it does then the generator/regulator could be bad--if it drops below 10.5V when cranking then the battery is likely bad...

Autohaulers INC

great info, in going to get a plug in voltage meter tommorow and check this out...car has never been smoked in so im in luck...

Autohaulers INC

car did it again this a.m. uugh...going to buy one of these, will this monitor the alt and batt voltage when running, etc...
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...ge-meter/19983
seems so much like this is alt and battery related because after it does it, the car barely cranks over again. yet it starts fine in the a.m. I noticed the idling rpms will drop a bit even when I roll down my windows or the conv top, like the alt cant handle (the truth lol) it. Im thinking just the brake lights going is the straw that broke the camels back coupled with hard braking and draw on the power steering pump that makes the car die when stopping..its really scary becasue I lose pwr brakes and steering when it happens...just want this problem to go away...

Hangwire

This is normal. While idling if I touch my window buttons it does the same thing.

cliffyk

The monitoring device you linked to will work--make sure the center connector in the cigar lighter is bright and clean. However you should also get an inexpensive multi-meter to make some other tests.

• Check the battery terminal connectors, make sure they are clean and tight;
  
• Check the voltage across the negative and positive battery connectors, NOT the battery posts, while cranking the engine--it should be 10.5V or better, if not the battery is likely bad; have it load tested at an auto-electric shop--NOT a FLAPS;
  
• Now, with the engine idling:
  
  • Measure the voltage between the battery negative post and the negative connector--it should be near 0.0V, if not the negative connector is dirty or improperly connected;
    
  • Measure the voltage between the battery positive post and the positive connector--it should be near 0.0V, if not the positive connector is dirty or improperly connected;
    
  • Measure the voltage from the generator body to the negative battery post, it should be near 0.0V--if not there is a bad ground path between the generator body and the battery;
    
  • Measure the voltage from the generator output terminal to the battery positive post, it should be near 0.0V--if not there is a bad connection between the generator output and the battery;

Autohaulers INC

ok bear with me because im terrible when it comes to electrical - do have a voltmeter and here is what I found

TERMINALS ARE CLEAN AND TIGHT

CHECKED VOLTAGE ACROSS CONNECTORS WHEN CRANKING - VOLTAGE MOMENTARILY DIPPED TO 9.0V AND THEN BACK TO 13.8 WHEN RUNNING - COULD THE VOLTAGE DROP BE WHAT THE PROBLEM IS? IT DIPS DWN LOW ON BRAKING AND KILLS THE MOTOR? I TESTED IT 3-4 TIMES 9-9.5 VOLT ON CRANKING EACH TIME..

(not sure if I am doing this right but) PUT NEGATIVE LEAD OF TESTER TO NEGATIVE CONNECTOR AND POSITIVE LEAD OF TESTER TO TO NEGATIVE BATT POST = 0.1 MV

NEGATIVE LEAD OF TESTER TO POSITIVE CONNECTOR AND POSITIVE LEAD OF TESTER TO POSITIVE BATT POST = 0 MV

POSTIVE TESTER LEAD TO GEN BODY AND NEG LEAD TO NEG BATT POST = 800-1000 MV

POSITIVE TESTER LEAD TO GEN OUTPUT AND NEGATIVE TESTER LEAD TO BATT POSSITIVE POST = MINUS 17MV

did i test everything correctly and any smoking gun from my results? p.s. what is a flaps?

cliffyk

The point-to-point tests are all good values--however the battery's falling off to 9.5V while cranking is not good--the PCM needs at least 10.5V to think clearly.

You need to have a high current load (100A or better) test done on the battery, I suspect it has a weak cell and is causing the PCM to drop out when the regulator cut's out during deceleration and the like.

Any auto-electric shop can properly load test the battery, the handheld things used by the FLAPS are basically go/no-go testers...

If you want to get a good tools to have HF has a 500A tester now on sale for $50.