GriffinGT

Also how do I receive the discount to UPR???

Jazzer The Cat

Griffin... I would consider going with the following UPR UCA:



These will reduce a huge amount of bind inherent in the Mustang 4-link rear suspension. These will create more NVH over those listed by Sharad above, but will allow you to address the pinion angle for a better dig off the line.

A non-adjustable solid/poly UCA will have a nicer ride, but exasterbate the already negative effects of bind in the rear axle. This spherical arm will VASTLY reduce the effects of bind and prolong the life of your torque-boxes as well. I have LOTS of information regarding this issue and can be found in my suspension guide

Jazzer

GriffinGT

Should I Buy only these? So there is no need for Lower control arms if I purchase the ones you suggested? Sorry I dont really know how it works but very interested. Please keep the info comin.Thanks

Jazzer The Cat

Don't buy ANYTHING until you understand what it will/won't do for your car!

It is important that you know the upside/downside of suspension mods is, so that you have the car you want to drive. The OEM rear control arms are very flexible and have soft rubber bushings. Both of these things combine to give you a relatively comfortable ride, but less than ideal cornering/launching characteristics. These arms are the only things holding your rear axle from being left behind you when you release the clutch and better ones will improve BOTH cornering and launching.

The set of arms that Sharad listed will improve your launching, but at a price payed for cornering and some un-necessary strain to the upper torque-boxes. My opinion is to improve BOTH cornering and launching, even if one is NOT really into the corners at all, but ONLY into 1/4 mile. You see, the rear axle must be move in three directions... up/down/articulation. The axle must be allowed to move in all of these directions, to be a DD on the streets. Regardless of which of these directions the axle moves, the OEM 4-link design "fights" it.

To improve ALL of the rear-axle functional movement, my recommendation would be to install the UCA's listed in my post # 12 above and a set of ***THESE*** LCA's from UPR


Now... these are going to be more expensive than those linked by Sharad above. They are also going to add more NVH to your ride, so you need to understand your car WILL be noisier inside the cabin with the parts I suggest. The trade-off, will be IMPROVED cornering and launching over that of those linked in Sharads post above. The difference between them is the spherical or Heim joint at one end of each of the control arms (both upper and lower) and the uppers are adjustable in length for pinion angle corrections for ideal angle for 1/4 mile. This Heim joint allows MUCH better articulation and a more freely operating 4-link suspension out back.

My recommendation is to FIRST read up on the 4-link in my suspension guide so you know what to expect with suspension and its modification. The opening couple paragraphs are HUGE in the understanding of this stuff and be sure to check it out

Jazzer

UPRSharad

It's a tough call man. The control arms add traction, but your tires are a limiting factor here. I fully believe that if you add the control arms I listed, disconnect one front swaybar end link, and drop the rear tires down to 28 psi, I think you'll get a 1.99 or so 60-foot time which will put you in the 13s.


I just sent you the discount info in a private message.


Without getting into a huge long discussion, I'll say this. I always prefer control arms with spherical bearings. My True Street car has sphericals all the way around on the front & rear suspension. Even my daily driver last year was a Fox Body with spherical bearings on the rear upper & lower control arms. That car dead hooked on the street with drag radials and the UPR Pro Series arms with spherical bearings.

That said, some people don't like the extra road feel associated with the solid (spherical) bushings. The extra NVH doesn't bother me at all, but people tell me I'm pretty hardcore.

The arms I posted with poly bushings work well on the street. Most people don't corner like an HPDE or auto-cross on the street. (I do sometimes...) Anyway, they do work well in a mild street/strip application, but what jazzer's saying is legit. If I thought you wouldn't be too concerned with a little more road feel in the chassis, I'd get you into our UPR Pro Series arms which definitely hook like crazy! The Pro Series arms are $269 for MF members, with a lifetime guarantee. I'll post a link to the standard Pro Series kit we use on street cars, but if you ordered this, I'd want you to specifically request the lower control arms WITH sway bar mounts. (and those are not the exact same part number I'm listing here)

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-c...ackage-99.html


^^yep.

GriffinGT

WOW! Great info. Really gave me something to think about. It looks like what I might do is buy http://www.americanmuscle.com/maximu...connector.html and then save up for http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-c...ackage-99.html .Thanks for the advice about "asking for the sway bar mount". I would not of known that. Jazzer and UPRSharad Thanks for the Great info. I have learned alot through this thread. Im sure your guys advice will help reach mine and others goals.

Jazzer The Cat

^ Thanks from both of us and Sharad is spot on here Both of us are REALLY hardcore about corner-carving, but somewhere he has lost his way and found an appreciation for the drag-strip he he....

The items we have discussed here will benefit BOTH the quarter and the quarner, but pretty much stops there, with the exception of FLSFC's you mentioned) if one is really looking for only one as an absolute focus for driving needs. Adding FLSFC's is a great mod for any pre-S197 Stang and helps to limit issues over time due to body flex (poor door alignment and such)

Jazzer & Sharad.... pimpin' for da hardcore (and not soo hardcore)

UPRSharad

You're welcome! Your plan sounds good.

About the sway bar mounts... the factory lower control arms (and most aftermarket arms) have mounting points for the factory rear swaybar. But our Pro Series suspension is designed to be used with a solid anti roll bar that is welded to the subframe, not bolted to the control arms. But since solid anti roll bars are not recommended for the street (they don't allow ANY body roll), we began making Pro Series LCAs with mounts for the factory sway bar so people could enjoy the traction benefits of the Pro Series arms with the flexibility of the factory swaybar.

Here's the standard Pro Series lower:
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-c...l-arm-kit.html

Here's the Pro Series lower with swaybar mounts:
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-c...bar-mount.html


See the difference?




LOL, yep! and High Five on that last part!

GriffinGT

Ya I see the diff. Thanks alot.

UPRSharad

No problem man! I think you'll like those UPR Pro Series LCAs with sway bar mounts if that's what you end up getting. I ran them on my Fox DD last year and it hooked like crazy. That car earned quite a reputation for hooking on the launch.