So I have been working on moving everything over from my 96 GT/Cobra to a 2002 GT. I bought the 2002 GT as a roller. It has welded axle tubes, moser 33 spline axles and a full moser spool installed. Either has 3:73's or 4:10's (Still have not looked to see which)

The diff setup in my GT is just basically stock with 3:73 gears.

The car is my weekend warrior. Since installing the KB 2.1 2 years ago, I may have put 500 miles on it. It has hit the strip once. At the strip, I had HORRIBLE traction issues. I run 275/40's but they are just street tires. I also have Hotchiks LCA's and Tokico shocks on the rear. On the street, 1st gear for sure is pretty scary, and 2nd i unpredictable.

So I am up in the air on what I want to use. The car is 99% a weekend warrior that will maybe see the strip once or twice a year. I for sure want to keep the axles. Should I keep the spool or should I sell it and install my parts int he stock rear diff?

I don't know much at all about rear diff's. My buddy is an ASE mechanic and installed the 3:73's years ago. Labor will be free. Just wanted to see what everyone thought. I know for sure I want and need more traction both at the strip and on the street.

 

your stock axles are 28 spline so your diff will not match the 02 axles. just look at American Muscle and pick up a 33 spline diff

 

Traction issue solution= Run a heim joineted control arm setup with adjustable uppers, set pinion angle at -2 degrees, make sure you weld and reinforce torque boxies, run a stock v8 rear spring cut 1 coil, strange 10 ways front and back, and a good tire. (with some sidewall)

 

Interesting. I guess I am going for a couple gains here. A bullet proof rear diff and more traction.

uberstang, thank you for the info. I will make sure to save this off and reference this when the money allows me to upgrade. I have read nothing but bad things about aftermarket UCA's. Not debating what you say by any means, as you obviously know more on this subject than I do. Just thought that was interesting...

Torque boxes have been welded and I also have a swarr bar which I forgot to mention originally. I have eibach springs but I assume that the stock springs would be softer and would achieve the drop by cutting them. I have strange 10 way coil overs up front, but Tokico's in the back.

It is kind of a freak of nature car. I have basically taken 4 mustangs, kept the aftermarket parts from them, sold the rest off the parts off and am building one lol.

 

The bad things u are hearing are about UCA with poly bushings, every serious street/strip car will run adjustable UCAs, without them theres no way to adjust pinion angle.

 

Op, not to thread jack..

Uber, for explaining purposes, how does your pinion angle affect traction? Can you give us more detail about this? does it just keep the car from trying to "climb up" the pinion gears?

 

Theres a huge debate about pinion angle and launching a drag car. One camp for it and one camp against it, it can be argued untill the cows come home. But as far as a mustang with a 4 link suspension setup its been proving time and time again setting the pinion angle correctly and making sure you have a good instant center= lower 60 foot times. I'm not exactly sure its the pinion angle in itself that makes the difference but a change in pinion angle changes the suspension geomety and angle of the 4 link components and also aids in binding problems with the rear joint of the driveshaft. Its hard to explain and like I said people will argue about it, but the bottom line is people see results when properly adjusting the pinion angle.